I bought Anet A6, what should I do? Flashing Marlin v1.1.6 in Anet A8 (A6) Photos of ANET A6.

Provides print volume up to 220x220x240 mm. The LCD display shows the status of the printer and its current operation, providing a convenient interface for navigation and control. The printer provides sophisticated output precision from 0.1 to 0.4 mm. Anet A6 comes with a USB port and its XP, Vista, Win7, Win8, Win10, Linux and Mac OS compatible software allows you to download the model and control the printer directly from your computer. Recently, many people have begun to purchase a special kit that is intended for reassembly. It is necessary for people who have a special 3d printer.

Main differences of ANET A6

Today, the printer will be just perfect in order to get acquainted with 3D printing in more detail. A similar device appeared a little later than the A8 model. A more rigid frame is installed here, which allows fast printing at a variety of speeds. The device will also have a special informative screen that allows you to carry out the printing process. If you decide to connect the printer to your computer, then in this case you can view all work processes from your computer.

Photos ANET A6

Specifications ANET A6

Frame material: Acrylic 8mm + metal
LCD screen
Acrylic frame laser cut
Materials: PLA, ABS, NYLON, FLEX
Thread diameter: 1.75mm
XY axis positioning accuracy: 0.012mm
Z axis positioning accuracy: 0.004mm
Extruder: 1
Printing in one color
Nozzle: 0.4mm (possible: 0.5 / 0.3 / 0.2mm)
Printing precision: 0.1-0.4mm
Layer Resolution: 0.1mm
Print speed: 100mm/s
Maximum print size: 220x220x240mm
Nozzle recommended temperature: 210 degrees Celsius, no more than 250 degrees Celsius
Recommended ambient temperature: about 25 degrees Celsius
Heating plate temperature: 50 to 110 degrees Celsius (adjustable)
Heating plate material: aluminum
Data format: STL, G-code
Compatible OS: XP, Vista, Win7, Win8, Win10, Linux, MAC
3D Printing Software: Repetier-Host
Power supply: DC 12V/20A
Ports: USB / Power Port
Weight: 8.5 kg

Hello again, dear readers!

Sometimes we want to ride in a Porsche, but we have to collect change for the bus. So I, a few years ago, drooled over the zortrax m200 printer, which just came out on kickstarter. Then it seemed the norm that a printer could cost under 100 thousand rubles. I had to part with thoughts of buying such a miracle machine, since I had no plans for the payback of such a project.

In modern realities, you go to Aliexpress and place an order in a couple of clicks. After a month and a half, you get a box of spare parts, and then spend a day assembling, printing your first cube and...

Do not panic!

Fortunately, the printer prints quite tolerably out of the box, but this article is dedicated to those who do not like to stop there. In this framework, I will try to consider two questions:

1.Improve print quality.

2. Facilitate the daily operation of the printer.

In order to minimize the number of actions and avoid falling into a rake that the author has already gone through, I recommend making improvements, according to the order of description in the article. Trust me.

Table, adhesion and calibration.

Printing at the beginning.

The easiest option for printing on a bare table is a glue stick, my favorite ones are kalyaka-malyaka and erich krause. Be careful, kalyaka sometimes comes across defective pencils with extraneous inclusions, as well as pencils with yellow glue instead of red / crimson.

Marriage example:

Recipe of the day:

You will need a 3D printer, glue stick, good lighting.

We turn on the printer and heat the table to a temperature of 50 degrees Celsius.

The Z-axis can be raised higher for convenience.

Open the glue stick and begin to apply with quick and smooth movements over the print area.

You do not need to press, otherwise the layer will turn out to be thick and uneven. After applying the first layer, let the glue dry for about 20-30 seconds and apply the next layer perpendicularly.

What to print first?

With a very high probability your table will be crooked, I recommend correcting this with glass, which can simply be fixed on top of the table. If you have a diamond eye, then you can cut the glass yourself, 2.5mm, 4mm will do, but not more than 5, otherwise there will be calibration problems. I used the services of a glass workshop.

But before cutting glass, I want to draw your attention to the calibration of the table. Initially, it is done by tightening the nuts with a screwdriver, which leaves us with a choice, either to make bevelled corners near the glass, or to turn the calibration upside down.

We print these details, it is possible without guides for springs. We remove the table, drill the thread.

We fix the bolts with nuts to the table. You can buy self-locking nuts, they will not unwind. We put the table in place, tighten the nuts, fix it with wing nuts from below. thingiverse also has clamps for springs, but using them will make it more difficult to adjust the table, and if you use thick glass, you will have to lift the hitchhiker higher.

Along with this, installation work can be carried out belt lock And Y-axis tensioner. The belt lock is necessary for the uniform movement of the table at the extreme points of the Y axis, that is, at the beginning and end. With a standard lock, the belt always pulls up, which does not have the best effect on durability.

After assembly, tighten the tensioner nut until a crunch is heard. The belt should not hang out, but it should not be overtightened either.

This detail was printed one of the first, and on the same factory adhesive tape. The quality is not so hot, but I see no reason to redo it, it works.

Glass can be used both clean and with a glued film, for example such. I use both, PLA film, a clean table with ABS glue stick. When ABS is printed, marks remain on the film, most likely due to higher temperatures and lack of fan cooling.

Installing the glass is simple, put the glass prepared in advance and fix it with paper clips from stationery. Be sure to calibrate.

Optional modifications:

If you plan to print for a long time at high table temperatures, and also leave your printer unattended, I strongly recommend replacing the standard table heating cable with a thicker one. So you reduce the risk of fire and reduce the time it takes for the table to warm up to operating temperatures. My printer decided to smoke at 32 hours of printing (a really big part) at a table temperature of 110 degrees. I recommend not to overestimate the temperature of the table without apparent need.

Axis X

When you figured out the crooked table and made a tensioner for the Y axis, you can start modifying the X axis.

There is nothing difficult in printing these details, it may be necessary to additionally go through the holes with a drill so that the studs go in easier, and work a little with a file.

There are two variants of models, the original one: Anet A6 X Axis by jgbbob8 and modified: Anet A6 X Axis Mod by RicardoPina The difference between them is only in the location of the limit switch. The modified version allows you to leave it in a standard place.

With this modification, we free up a bunch of nuts and bolts that could be used in other projects, and we also get the ability to adjust the tension of the X-axis belt.

Attention: Be sure to print a new limit switch holder before final assembly. I recommend this one: Anet A6/A8 Z end stop Adjust by Bomber0.

The basis.

We set the strength of the frame.

The acrylic frame flexes quite well. After adding the Y-Axis Tensioner, and after using it for a while, the thin bezel starts to flex. Also, the Y-axis is not strong enough at the base and is prone to fluctuations during printing. Fix it with frames facial parties and middle printer with fixed stepper motor.

In the comments, one can argue whether it makes sense to screw the printer to the table. Personally, I don’t see the point in this; after adding frames, the printer stands confidently on its feet.

I would like to go to heaven. Z axis

We fix vibrations.

In my last article, which many deservedly considered a whine, I mentioned the fact that the bundle of wires that goes to the extruder and its attachments can fray. In fact, that's what happened to me. One wire began to fall off at the connector of the extruder motor, which in some positions gave skipping moves. The motor clicked. Of course, I ordered a set of spare wires and temporarily changed the cable on the connector, hanging everything on the twists.

Then came the moment of searching for a cable chain for the printer. And I him found. The part that is attached to the extruder is made taking into account the placement of the auto-calibration table. Therefore, if you do not plan to install it, the part will have to be cut a little. I lost my cropped model, if necessary I can post it later.

At that time, I already had an upgrade installed for Z axis. Both parts naturally turned out to be incompatible, so I had to tinker with 3D Builder for half an hour and combine the incompatible. Specially for 3dtoday. Please note that there are two models, one of which has a place for a backlight control button.

Or Ultimaker. But you don't need to be "good". Printing for your tasks can be done on any printer - a thinner nozzle, lower speed, and it will be fine.

I also wanted to get a good one, but first I took the cheapest Prusa i3 from a local store, because. had no idea about printers. The first couple of months broke, repaired, and finalized it. And as it turned out, assembling a printer is a much more interesting activity than printing itself :)

As a result, over the past eight months I have already assembled four printers - the first of the set (and after that I dismantled it for spare parts), the rest I bought parts on Aliexpress, in parts.

The latter is still in the process of being assembled, but is already printing. Print area 400x400x600mm
(UPD, updated photo):

So take the simplest Prusa i3, preferably a popular model (it's easier to look for solutions to problems) and replaceable drivers (it's easy to burn them at first). And welcome to the world of 3D printing!

You will also need spare parts - a Teflon tube (often clogged in a hotend), extra. nozzles (easier to change than to pierce), aluminum blocks of the heater (nozzle thread breaks the only way), drivers (easy to burn). Fortunately, all this can be bought on Ali inexpensively, the main thing is to stock up in advance so that, as something fails, you don’t run in a panic to the nearest stores and order at exorbitant prices.

Despite the low price, Anet A8, even without modifications, allows you to print models of good quality.

But, there is no limit to perfection, the owners add belt tensioners, change linear bearings and increase frame rigidity by fixing on a chipboard / plywood sheet and installing spacers.

In this article I will describe the nuances that I encountered in the process of moving from an acrylic frame to a steel one.

A little background

On the advice of experts from the network, I assembled my Anet A8 using a thread lock, blue, from the nearest auto shop. Unfortunately, the fixative compound reacted with the acrylic and caused cracks. Because I fixed the printer on a sheet of chipboard, this did not cause serious consequences. Nevertheless, perfectionism haunted me, and at some point I could not resist and ordered a steel body / chassis / frame.

Equipment

The kit came with cut, painted sheet steel remotely similar to the original acrylic and a set of screws, nuts, washers.

The case manufacturer believes that for modernization we need to buy:

* Polished shaft long L=396mm x 2pcs (I got out without it, more details later)
* Linear bearing lm8uu x 4pcs
* Timing belt GT2 - 1 meter x 1pc
* Bearing 608zz x 2pcs (for example, from a spinner)
I would add to this
* nylon straps
* self-locking nuts “with grover”, hole 3mm
* plastic insert for mounting the Y-axis motor

Assembly

Sufficiently detailed instructions are available on the case manufacturer's website. I will describe the difficulties that I personally encountered.

The nut holes in the steel frame are larger than those in the acrylic frame, and self-locking nuts fit without problems. So I didn't have to use threadlocker. On the other hand, the nuts with a grover have an external size smaller than the original ones, and to tighten them, I had to hold them with a cobra wrench. I was very lucky to have linear and conventional bearings available, and also a belt. But the polished shaft for the Y-axis (printer table) from the original kit turned out to be one centimeter shorter. I built up the shaft with M8 bolts, nuts and washers (the old shaft rests against the nut), and grinded off the protruding part that prevents the table from moving with a file.

The kit did not include a plastic insert for mounting the motor. Ideally, it should be printed in advance. I used a brass post instead of the insert.

I also had to tinker with the limit switches, according to the instructions, it is assumed that they are combined with a small board and the Y-axis limit switch should be located on the racks. In my case, the limit switches went without boards, for the Y axis, g, I had to tinker. I cut off the old limit switch holder and fixed it on the M4 screw.

Also, the X-axis limit switch in the assembly instructions for the steel case is on the right, although in the acrylic it is on the left. Without changing the firmware, homing will not work. I increased the limit switch wire and placed it on the left.

A couple more photos of printer elements

General impressions

The main goal is achieved, the frame is very strong. Rigidity is more than sufficient. Convenient "shelf" for coils with plastic. The X axis is well balanced, the drive motor is shifted to the other side as opposed to the extruder. Linear bearings are offset as close as possible to the vertical guides. Increased maximum print height by lowering the table (linear bearings can be attached directly to the table without using bearing holders). The backlash of the extruder carriage is practically “gone”.

But not without a fly in the ointment.

For me, the number one problem is the need to purchase additional shafts and bearings (see the package section). On a lesser note, the X-axis belt is slipping off the tensioner to the right, I had to fence the washer structure to combat this effect.

There is no x-axis belt tensioner.

If you don't have Anet A8, then instead of a bunch of Anet A8 + steel case, it's better to look at other models right away in a metal case.

I consider the purchase of a steel chassis reasonable for those owners of the Anet A8 who are not satisfied:

* rigidity of the structure (including after modification)
* appearance / aesthetic component
* not afraid of the price

Introduction All my work is related to various kinds of laser machines, the work of which you could see in my previous reviews ( , ), and now also with a new class of additive laser SLM machines, but I really wanted to feel FDM technology as well. And also start manufacturing various plastic elements for machine tools, which are too expensive according to classical casting or milling technologies.
An example of our products obtained by SLM technology.

Assembly

3-4 weeks after the order, I received a heavy box in the mail, more than 10 kg of weight.

Packed perfectly, everything lies on its lodgements in foam, there is no chance of damage. Let's start assembling. The assembly was carried out according to video instructions:

Deviations from the instructions were not found, everything is simple and logical. All wires are signed, all screws and nuts are placed in separate bags. I will show some of the points in the photo.
Frame assembly. I do not completely tighten the screws, I leave slack for the subsequent alignment of the axes.

To speed up the screwing of the nuts on the studs, it is convenient to use a screwdriver.

X-axis mounting

Wire laying

Key to start!

For the first test, a colleague brought some Nichosi.

Layer 0.1 mm, speed 40 mm/s

Modernization

The first grown parts showed the need to re-set the gap between the nozzle and the aluminum table after each launch. This happens due to the low accuracy of the mechanical limit switch on the Z axis. But this is not a problem, I go to the warehouse, I take the SS549A hall sensor, standard for our machines, and a scarf for it.

We draw a fastener in Autocad Inventor. I make it specially overcomplicated, I'll see how the printer copes.

Ready in 20 minutes!

After installing it on the Z axis, recalibration of the table is required only after the forceful removal of the product. The photo with the previous X axis has not been preserved, unfortunately. Here's how it's temporarily installed now (sic!)

The temporality is due to the fact that soon there will be the second part of the review - the manufacture of an aluminum frame for the machine.

Let's go further. The next weak point of the machine is the lack of belt tensioners. It is not possible to pull them without special devices. Therefore, first of all, we print the knot for attaching the belt to the table. It will reduce the bending of the belt and make them much more comfortable to terminate.

For some reason, the printing process was interrupted in half, but the necessary geometry was received and installed.

I did not print the tensioner itself. I loosened the front roller plates, put the belts into the printed knot, and began to tighten the fasteners. Got a great pull. It is adjustable with two screws, quite convenient.

I didn’t figure out how to make a tensioner along X beautifully and easily, I didn’t like the ready-made options, so I reprinted the entire carriages.

The assembly did not reveal any problems, this modification did not affect the speed and acceleration during operation. But there was a convenient tension mechanism.

I also printed another supply from the cooling fan, this solved some of the problems with overhanging and thin elements

In principle, this completes the modifications necessary for successful and stable operation. It remains only to remember to lubricate the guides and drive screws with grease.

Problems.

The machine does not have many generic problems. Most of them are fairly easy to solve. But since the machine is working 24x7 without human intervention, problems happen. So, the first printout of the X-axis carriages looked like this

Since the printing unit came already assembled, it never occurred to me to check it, but I should have. The extruder gear was torn off the shaft, it was not properly twisted. The result is a bunch of PLA and the weekend was wasted.

With incorrect parameters, when executing overhanging elements, I saw just such a picture once. It was supposed to be the second Nichosik.

The next trouble is that at one fine moment the heating of the table stopped working. The reason is simple - poor contact in the connector. The forums recommend throwing it out and soldering it directly to the table.

At the same time, I printed out a cable caterpillar with a mount.

There was just something wrong that I still haven't fixed. Soldered in a hurry, without disconnecting the printer from the network. As a result, the ADC pin responsible for measuring the temperature of the table was knocked out, so until the new ATMEGA1284P arrives, I was left without heating it -(

And now to the main thing, to the press!

Laser machines are equipped with various elements, one of which is a working lens. The thing is expensive, and quite fragile, so it needs an individual shipping case. It is not interesting to sharpen, it is insanely expensive to make castings - they need about 3-4 dozen a year. Therefore, we open the inventory, draw a model, and print.

After checking the work of the thread, I make adjustments and replicate.

Need to test the idea of a new focusing unit, and the mechanical site is loaded for 2 weeks in advance? No problem, we print details in half an hour.

After the adjustment, the node is already running in the metal. As well as many similar units and parts.

And various things for yourself and for friends when the printer is not loaded on the main profile

And my three-year-old daughter is simply delighted with this thing, and she has lunch and goes to bed with her.

And for the home, the project of a future weather station. Review and manufacturing process will be later.

Tools

My main tools for working with models

I print on regular paper tape. Parts I grow exclusively from PLA, this material is completely suitable for my requirements. Tweezers for cleaning the outside of the nozzle and removing various hot nozzles that occur when printing is paused. Knives, small for fine workmanship, like taking off a skirt, large for separating a part from tape. Nippers and pliers for removing supports.

As sources for Autodesk Inventor/Fusion models and
If you like to work with your hands, your head, design different components and products, 3D printing is a great tool. Given its low price and sufficient ease of use, there is simply no desire to make many homemade products in a different way.

From future upgrades, I will make an aluminum frame for it. At high speeds, the fragility of the structure is felt, the movement of the guide shafts in the gaps. But this is a topic for the next review.
After this update, I will start lazy assembling the printer on linear guides.

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