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Doors - the necessary element of the interior, which not only makes it completed, but also carries several basic functions: protects the room from unwanted penetration and maintains heat inside it. Among the variety of such products, the most popular canvases made of wood. The cost of such models is not small, but if you make the door from the tree with your own hands, you can save a considerable amount of money. There are several techniques for which you can make such interior items, we will stop in detail on one of them. In this article we will look at how to make the door from the boards with their own hands.

Types of wooden doors

Before making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to decide on some subtleties of the design of various types of cloths. The manufacture of massive panels is carried out from planed or thick-walled plates equipped with a ship-groove shut-off system collected in a solid panel.

Schip-groove

If you choose exactly on this option, it should be particularly closely choosing the material for its manufacture. Speaking about the entrance door, it is better to perform it from dense high-quality wood: cedar, oak or larch. Well, when your bath needs an addition to such a design, then in this case it is better to give preference to less expensive raw materials, choosing deciduous trees by the type of linden. The only nuance in the manufacture of the door to the steam room is necessary to process all structural elements by antiseptic and moisture-repellent solution.

To assemble the panel door webs, a wooden timber and boards are taken, which were obtained by gluing wooden lamellas. After assembling all the structural elements, the timber is covered with a natural veneer, give the product a beautiful design. At the same time, parts with glazing can be used, which allows you to get a unique door panel.

There is another option of doors that are distinguished by a comparative low cost - shield. Such interior items are made from inexpensive "consumables" - DVP (chipboard, MDF, dense cardboard, etc.), which is facing with laminate panels or veneer.

Preparatory activities

How to make the door with your own hands? In fact, this is not such a complex process. Adhering to the phased instruction proposed on, make the door with his own hands even inexperienced in this case.

Selection of "consumables" and tools

Works on the assembly of wooden door canvases will be faster and better if you spend them at a steady table. For the lack of such, free the place on the floor and clean it from dirt, dust, etc.

What will be required of the tools:

hand mill, screwdriver, electrolovka (if there is no such toolkit, then you can rent them in any construction store);
plancock and a set of broken chisels;
a pair of hammers - rubber and ordinary;
level, plumb, square;
pencil, roulette;
grinding or sandpaper.

Building materials:

bounded boards, equipped with a spike-groove fastening - the thickness is selected depending on the purpose of the product being manufactured;
a set of broken screws;
putting on wood or primer;
antiseptic;
mounting foam;
carpentry glue.

After buying wood, it is desirable to dry. And even if you were assured that the material is fully ready for work, it is better to rebuild yourself. Each board is laid on the gasket, which can be absolutely any moisture fluid. Make sure that the elements do not come into contact with each other.

The presence of excess moisture inside the wood can lead to the formation of mold and rotting processes. And this, in turn, significantly reduces the life of the door panel.

Drying is carried out for one or two months, while the room temperature should be 25 ° C. And do not forget to air the room from time to time (only not in rainy weather).

Boards need several days to "acclimatization"

If a special chamber is used for drying, it is extremely undesirable to exceed the temperature above 50 ° C. This can lead to the exit of the resin substances from wood (when using coniferous rocks), which will significantly reduce the strength characteristics of the finished product.

Getting to work

Consider stages like making a wooden door panel:

At the first stage, you need to mark up and sawing the boards on the elements of the desired length. After that, lay down the prepared segments so that the pictures of the annual rings watched one way.

The next stage is the assembly of boards in the cloth, fixing them by means of the "Schip-groove. As an additional fastening, the part must be glued with carpentry glue.

Tree construction assembly

Now cut off from the extreme element of the spike and process the end using the grinding machine for these purposes. After that, the cloth is pressed by clamps and left until complete drying.

During the drying, the wooden canvas should be on a flat surface. This will avoid distortion.

After drying the panel is milling and grinding. If there is a need to strengthen the design, then two canvases are made immediately, which, when gluing, are superimposed perpendicular to each other. As a rule, in this way they make panels for entrance doors.

Possible types of transverse door strapping

Next, you need to bind the product with a strapping, which consists of 2-3 crossbar:

preparation of wooden segments in size equal to the width of the door, while the shape of the cross is performed in the form of a trapezium, which ensures better entry of elements in the groove;
we apply markup to the placement of transverse parts;
we note the depth of the excavation - as a rule, its magnitude is equal to half or a third of the thickness of the plank;
cutting transverse recesses;
processing the grooves of the adhesive basis and the introduction of transverse structural elements in them.

We are decorated

After the panel is assembled and dried well, you can proceed to decorating it. First of all, it is necessary to treat the surface with sandpaper or grinding machine. The wood is processed by antiseptic solution. After complete drying, the antiseptic panel is putty or ground. It remains only to cover it with a varnish, a verse or paint. The color and number of layers depends exclusively from the aesthetic preferences of the owner of this product.

Finish Morilka

If it is assumed to apply several layers of decorative coating, then it is necessary to give to dry the previous one before applying the subsequent.

Regardless of the selected decorative coating (medilion or paint), the varnish in two layers are necessarily applied on top of it. If we are talking about the manufacture of the entrance door, then in addition to the antiseptics, the web is also covered with water-repellent liquid.

Go to installation work

After the self-made door from the tree is fully ready, you can start it. Guided by the dimensions of the opening, collect the door box and check the fatty installation. The fixation of the frame is carried out by means of anchor bolts, and the attachment places are closed with decorative plugs. Next, try on the panel to the Operation and, if there are errors, adjust the dimensions of the product.

Markup scheme before installation

The next stage is the mounting of the door cloth in the opening. But before that, it is necessary to blew the gaps between the frame and the opening with the assembly foam and, after drying and trimming, collect elements of the platbands.

Now you need to install all the necessary accessories. After that, we place places under the loop and canopies and cut them out with the help of the chisels. Optimal fastening of loops - flush with the end of the panel.

It remains only to perform the grooves for locking mechanisms to install the panel on the loop, adjusting the design location. And do not forget to provide for the response strips for the locking mechanism on the door frame.

Knowing how to make a wooden door yourself, you can realize the task in the best way.

Video: how to make doors do it yourself from a t-shirt

The quality of the proposed interior doors, which can be purchased in most construction stores, can not always satisfy buyers. They can be beautiful, attractive, but the strength and durability of these products leaves much to be desired. Therefore, many home masters do not have anything else, how to make interroom doors with their own hands. Moreover, there is no great difficulty in this if you choose the material and follow a certain plan.

Materials for the manufacture of the canvas

Before starting work on independent production of the interior door, it is necessary to prepare the material. In most cases, a tree is used for this purpose. From it is made frame of the canvas, as well as the door frame. In addition to wood, can be used:

Styrofoam;
Cardboard cells;
Glass;

Polyfoam and cardboard cells are used as a door leaf filler, it is not made of wood array. These materials have ease, which is important for subsequent operation. In addition, the polyfoam reduces the noise level by making the cloth more sound-absorbing.

The use of glass for the manufacture of interroom doors is due primarily to the aesthetic side.. Similar inserts visually expand the room, and also allow you to diversify the design of the room. There is glass and one more property. It perfectly misses daylight. Therefore, with glazed interior canvases in the apartment corridors, the apartment will be significantly lighter, even if the door is closed.

Fiberboard or its more advanced version of the MDF is used as a casing material. In the design of the web, these materials are responsible for the decorative finish of the future product. At the same time, the MDF is the finish element, but the Fiberboard will have to additionally process to give it an attractive appearance.

In addition to listed materials, laminated chipboard sheets can be used as a sheath. A rich selection of colors, imitating a natural tree, makes such a type of finish very popular. It should be noted that the use of LDSP will give the doors more rigidity in diagonals.

PVA or configmatics glue can be used as a mounting material. To cover the finished canvase, you will need varnish. If you need to add colors, then the problem is solved due to the simulators and toned varnishes.

Required tool

The next phase of preparation will be the preparation of a tool that will be needed for the manufacture of interior door. At hand you must have:

Manual or electrical chores;
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
Set of chisels and chisels;
Manual electric milling mill;
Grinding machine;
Stuslo;
Square and ruler;
Hammer and Cyans;
Pencil and roulette.

With such a set, you can safely begin the manufacture of any joinery. Vacuum cleaner should also be prepared to quickly remove not only sawdust, but also dust that should not be on the surface of the product during paintwork.

Manufacture and assembly

When preparation ends, then the cores are the main work. It will be necessary to step by step following the following steps:

Remove the dimensions;
Process material;
Perform markup;
Pet and collect the framework of the canvas;
Install accessories.

So that work flows quickly, and the product turned out to be high-quality, it is worth preparing a drawing. Thanks to him, it is easy to perform marking and not mistaken with the configuration of the future door.

The principle of assembling the panel door

Measurement cloth

Work should be started with the dimension of the doorway. This operation will allow you to calculate the size of the box and the canvas, as well as determine the configuration of the future product. If the discovery does not exceed 80 cm, then a single-door block should be made. With a larger size, you need to do two canvas to reduce the load on the loop and give a more attractive appearance to the whole product.

The resulting size must be reduced in height and width by 2 cm. This is required to create an assembly seam, obtained between the bar of the box and the slope of the goof. After installation, it is filled with polyurethane foam. Using the size of the sizes is drawn up the drawing in which you need to make an interroom door.

Dimensions of the door canvase

Such a guide must contain both the dimensions of the door canvase. To calculate them, it is necessary to deduct from the width and height of the width of the thickness of the box bar in the place where a quarter will be chosen. From the resulting size, it is necessary to take another 4 mm in width and from 4 to 12 mm in height. These values \u200b\u200boccur on the gap, which should remain for the free door of the door web. So define all data for the drawing.

It should be noted that the box timber is not necessarily done by the thickness of the wall. The remaining space can easily close the good, set after the installation work..

Manufacturing door strapping

As soon as the drawing with dimensions is completely ready, you can go to the next stage of work. At this stage, material processing should be processed and prepare a doorway frame. To do this, use the plane.

For the door leaf frame, you need to use planed boards

For the frame you can take a cutting board of 40 x 100 mm. The ideal option will be the acquisition of planed material, which will make it easier for work and will speed it significantly. But you can use and simply sawed boards. They will have to be treated with a planer to give smoothness. During the planing, closely follow the corners of the bars. They must have a strict angle of 90 degrees. You can check the work with the help of a square.

Connection diagram of frame elements

Next, the markup of parts is made according to the dimensions specified in the drawing. You will need to cut off the blanks. If the parts should be fixed with spikes, then all horizontal parts of the frame will be longer on the size of two spikes. For example, for bars 100 mm wide for a connection, a spike is 70 mm long. In this case, 140 mm should be added to the size of the workpiece, which means two spikes from both sides of the part.

During processing, you need to choose a groove or a quarter in the side sides of the blanks. It is necessary to install glass or inserts Filönok, if an array of wood was selected by the manufacturer of the door. You can perform this work with a manual electric milling mill. A milling cutter is inserted into the tool and a sample is made on the side specified in the scheme.

The grooves in the blanks are cut with a mill

Details for the door frame must contain a quarter, thanks to which the canvas can close the disc. It is also made by a mill, setting the depth and width of the sample. Quarter size must be repelled from the thickness of the door leaf. It is necessary to add 1 mm for a better game. The depth of the quarter must be at least 10 mm.

Preliminary assembly of the web

When the framework details are processed and places under fasteners are wedged, a preliminary assembly of the interior door can be carried out with their own hands. This operation will allow you to check the correctness of the markup and package all the elements. Collect the design dry, which means without using glue. If the connection type is selected on the confirmates, you will need to simply be out, without performing a dense twist.

When all the details are collected and fastened, check the width and length of the door canvase. If deviations from the drawing are detected, then it is necessary to fit the details. After the finishing, the product is again going and inspected. During all parameters, you can switch to the next step.

Marking and performing marbles

Separately, mention should be mentioned on the markup of parts and performing the marbles. This is a phased process where the error can end with the alteration of the entire product and spoiled material. Therefore, all the battered lines must be made only after checking the size. Yes, and the marking itself before starting the stuffing it is worth checking out with the drawing.

When performing markup, it should strictly follow the dimensions

When performing marking, you can add 1 mm to fit. In this case, even with uneven discharge of the workpiece, it will be possible to fix it painlessly. If everything works out the first time, then an extra millimeter can be simply removed by the Ruban. To transfer a line to the other side of the bar, you should take a carbon and put it right at this point. Since the item has a smooth angle of 90 degrees, the lines on all sides will accurately repeat the markup, made at the very beginning.

If spikes and eye pieces are selected as a connection, then you will have to make full marking of these elements. The location under the jack should be located strictly in the center. To calculate this data, you just need to divide the thickness of the bar to 2, and then mark the resulting number from any parts plane. The size of the spike itself should be 1/3 of the thickness of the workpiece. The width socket can be half a million less than the spike width.

The eyelet should be carefully drilled strictly on the markup performed, and then clean the chisel. During the edges of the lines, it is impossible to act, otherwise the connection will be glamorous, and the design will be fragile. According to the instructions, it is necessary to precisely adjust the thickening connection, so it is necessary to leave the semi-flyrimeter supply.

Assembling the canvas and cutting of fittings

When all connections are checked, and the dimensions are accurately converged with the door canvase assembly specified in the drawing. With a spike connection, the spikes plane and the inner surface of the nest are required. After that, the details are inserted into each other with a subsequent chipboard. If this procedure is performed by a hammer, then lay a small wooden bar to the bobbed surface. So you can avoid damage to the product being collected.

After assembling all parts at the joints, there should be no cracks. If they are, then you should once again bother this place. An ideal option will be pulled by a web with Vaimami. With their absence, you can install a metal corner on the board, measure the width of the web, add 3 to 4 cm to this size and secure another corner. You need three boards for which the door is stacked. The wedge is inserted between the bar of the canvas and the cloth is inserted and bother to the complete disappearance of the slots.

The door assembly is performed until the slots disappear

When the door is collected, cladding is attached to its surface. First, the sheets are cut down the size of the frame and then fall on it. The mount is performed using glue. Additionally, nails can be used. This operation must be carried out carefully and neatly so as not to damage the facing surface, especially if it has an finishing coating.

Before laying a second sheet from the reverse side of the interior door, filler installation is made. For this, the foam or cardboard cells are cut down the size of the free internal space between the parts of the web. A dense landing will ensure the integrity of the future door. Then the second sheet of cladding is stacked and the canvas gets a ready-made appearance.

To make the door to open, you need to install the loop. They are located at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the door. Marking is performed finely sharpened pencil. The nest must be chosen by the chisel strictly along the inside of the line, not speaking out of its limits. Loops in the landing places should sit without gaps. When the nest is ready and checked, the part is fastened with the help of self-tapping screws or coming in a set of screws. Read more about this in the article "Installing the loops on the door".

Door hinges pinned with self-draws or screws

Another element of the interior door is a handle. It is often inserted a lock in it, which makes it possible if necessary to lock the room.

The hole for the lock is performed using a drill

The center of the handle must be 1 meter from the floor. The pass-through hole for the lock is drilled by a drill. The landing place is also obstructed by the chisel. After the locking of the lock is completed, there should be no cracks. Read more about installing the handle in the interroom door.

Installing brakes in the opening

If the interior door assumes the presence of glazing, it is necessary to cook the glass cutter and select the desired type of glass. This element is inserted into a quarter, which is selected throughout the entire door perimeter. Glass is cut 2 mm less than the size of its installation.

Glass cuts performed by glass cutter

If, after working with a glass cutter, the sheet has irregularities, they must be removed. For this you can use PASSATIJ. With a large residue (from 2 mm), another cut slicer should be held. This will make it easier and high quality remove surplus. When the procedure is completed, you need to process the edges of the glass by sandpaper.

Next, the glass is installed in a quarter door. The mount is made with a decorative layout, which is tipped with small nails. This ensures the possibility of a quick repair during damage to the installed glass.

Finishing interior door

The collected door, if it is not covered with laminated chipboard, needs finishing work. They may be the following types:

Staining;
Toning;
Lamination.

Depending on the selected type of finishing, you need to carry out the appropriate operations.

Coloring

Before painting the surface of the door canvase, it is necessary to prepare it. And the first thing that should be performed is completely polished. For this purpose, an electric grinding machine is perfect. We need to take a tape for it not too abrasive so that there are no small scratches on the surface. It is required to work in the direction of growth of fibers. Perpendicular grinding is allowed only if you need to level the surface and as a rough one.

Before the painting door, its surface must be seized

If chip or dents remained on the door, they should be sharpened. The color of the wipers need to choose the appropriate shade of wood from which the canvas is made. So, upon subsequent painting, this place will not stand out on a general background. After applying the putty, you need to give it to dry and over again.

Wooden surface defects eliminate with putty

Next, you need to clean the surface from dust and only after that proceed to painting. Brushes, rollers or sprayers are used to apply material. The latter option allows you to perform work quickly and with the smallest paint consumption. During staining on the surface there should be no waste. They need to be removed. To get a high-quality painted door, you need to apply two or three layers of paint.

Pain the door is needed in 3 layers

Toning

Unlike painting, the toning of the doors implies the subsequent application of varnish. On the prepared surface you need to apply toning material, which can be:

Morilka;
Mordant;
Acrylic paint.

Any of the types of material will give the tree a new color, leaving the texture open. The simulator is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. If necessary, the procedure is repeated after a complete drying of the material.

As toning material uses simulators, drives or paints

When the desired shade is achieved, the cloth is vapor. To achieve a glossy surface, you should apply more than three layers. At the same time, each stage involves grinding a shallow emery ribbon. This will remove the raised pile and make the surface smooth.

Lamination

An alternative to paint and varnish materials is the use of films and veneer. Sticking these materials and is called lamination. For home production the best option There will be a cold way of gluing.

The surface of the interior door must be prepared in the same way as in the case of painting or toning. The film or veneer is cut along the size of the door leaf, making the allowance to 3 cm. Next, starting from one edge, the material is glued. If a self-adhesive film is used, the protective paper is gradually removed from it as the door is placed on the surface.

Self-adhesive film used for lamination door

The veneer is applied to glue, which is pre-lubricated by the canvas. Smoothing material follows from the middle of the edge. So it will easier to remove the air that fell under it. If the bubble fails to be expel, it can be carefully pierced by a needle. This place is required to hardly press so that the adhesive layer can connect the surface of the door and veneer. Excess the material on the edges is gently clipped with a knife.

Excess films are removed with a knife

Despite the fact that today the doors are made from a wide variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most popular. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to the house or economic buildings, as well as they are mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental purity, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textural patterns.

To figure out how to make the door from the boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to elite copies, are made of boards, but the material can have a different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood rocks.

In addition, the door canvases are divided into types of their design, and to determine which one is more suitable for a specific case, you need to know what they represent themselves.

Types of door design

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - these are viper and massive, shield (hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors made of thick tank or planed boards connected to one plane and thus forming a smooth surface. The resulting shield must have horizontal or inclined jumpers that will make the design more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of various breeds and quality is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if the input massive door is manufactured, then for it you need to choose a member of the dried, dense wood high Quality expensive breeds, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble factory and dense structure. With appropriate processing, such a door will last a long time without deformations and damage dangerous for wood insects.

Massive door can have different design - As an independent, which is suitable for installation, let's say, in the steam room, and a complex, having a relief design suitable for the entrance to the house or apartment.

For the bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to take into account, manufacturing the door design for wet premises is a thorough treatment and water-repellent means.

Massive doors can have their own design features, but one remains unchanged - this is a canvas that should always be made from a natural tree.

Pilencated door

Pilented wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but its glued variant is more often used, which is made of separate wooden parts - lamellae. They are glued together by creating thick boards or bars.

The glued bar serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - it makes vertical and transverse elements from it, as well as furnaces. Separate elements were bonded earlier with spikes, today it is most often used. Making the door, you need to consider the fact that the more the crossing will be provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A peculiar frames are formed from the bar in which panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF, coated with natural veneer, or plastic, imitating a wipe flange. Pilenk usually has a thickness constituting ⅓ from the thickness of the glued timber. Panels are fixed in frames with a veneered or natural staple, which gives appearance The panel door aesthetics, smoothing sharp edges of the frame.

Valid doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design scheme, the bulk of the door canvase has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in the openings between the rooms.

Therapy design is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability with a wooden array. Sometimes this kind of doors has even higher cost than the massion canvas. The pricing is based on the volume of wood, boards and bars are made, and how the veneer is covered with a panel door.

It should be noted that the panels are often the canvas and completely made of natural wood, only manufactured according to a similar constructive scheme.

Shield doors

Shield doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - this wood is low quality and fiberboard lined with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a quite aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Shield doors are solid, hollow and finely flowing. They differ in the fact that in some inner space completely filled with an unedged bar, bonded between themselves, the second consist only of strapping and external sheaving, and the third has partial filling.

A typical hollow shield door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side bars, which are trimmed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes inside the design, horizontal and vertical crossbars are installed, as they give the design additional rigidity. This door can already be called frame.

Small-profile design of door canvases have different content of the inner space, and a variety of materials can be used to fill - it can be plywood, MDF plates, cardboard, chips or foam.

The solid panel doors are called those that the filling of which is a kind of shield made from non-edged or edging bar, tightly bonded.

Schemes of panel structures of different fullness are presented in the pictures:

Shield door circuits - 1

BUT- solid design;

B. - finely filling;

Shield door circuits - 2

IN - filling with empty veneer;

G. and D.- finely filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

Shield door schemes - 3

E. - filling with chips;

J. -Figration with paper or cardboard cells;

Z. - Shield, partially filled with solid bars with a place for installation of glass or plywood sheet.

Shield door circuits - 4

AND - filling out parts of the canvas veneer;

TO and L. - filling with plywood or wood-fibrous elements;

M. - Filling with paper or cardboard cells.

The frame of the panel door is facing various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), wood-fibrous plates, plywood or veneer.

When cladding shields with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally issued by profiled overlays.

To obtain a high-quality panel door, the cladding of the structure is carried out by glued plywood from the linden or alder, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. Material made of alder and linden does not give deformations, which creates a reliable basis for

On the top of the knocked layer, the finishing plywood from the valuable tree species is fixed. The direction of the fibers of the decorative layer of plywood must be perpendicular to the material of the supplied material.

Often on the knocked layer, instead of plywood, natural veneer is fixed from expensive wood. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5, they are also placed perpendicular to each other.

Sometimes the solid shield from the glued timber is immediately made with a veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a total facing of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, so if the door is made without a frame, then smooth, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will correspond to the finishing of the remaining planes.

Facial bars are bonded with a shield of bellows and glue.

This type of doors, depending on the finish can be a bathroom or utility room, as well as in quality. However, it should be noted that the shield doors are absolutely not protected, so there are few on the role of the entrance. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all kinds of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a specific case, and then move to preparatory work and manufacture.

Door manufacturing tools

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a steady large workbench, on which the assembly of all elements in a single canvas will be assembled.

From the tools you need to prepare:

Hand mill - This device will help make the door of the door smooth, cuts any holes and grooves, comespace the straight corners of the design, processes the stroke and much more. If the goal is set to make the door looking professionally, then without this tool it is not necessary.

Plancock for leveling the end of the door.
Clamps for tightening glued web.
Hacksaw.
Basic and hand saw.
Sties of different sizes.
Rubber and ordinary hammer.
Building level.
Rule, roulette, folding meter and pencil.
Sandpaper and grinding machine.
Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of doors, the following materials will be required:

Wood - its backstage, quantity and sizes are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be said below.
Carpentry glue.
Saws of different lengths.

In addition, for each door of the door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials that will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door canvases.

Selection of sawn timber

It is necessary to know how to choose the blanks for the web, otherwise the ready door can be deformed, and it will not be possible to correct this defect.

The main criteria when choosing wood are as follows:

The breed of wood is chosen at will and financial capabilities.
For doors, the so-called, business wood is purchased, as it has a small amount of bitch, and if they are still there, small size and light color.
So that the tree "led himself" is good during processing and period of operation of doors, when buying, the material must have residual humidity 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose the material extended in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way is not deformed and will not fuse, since the camera creates the optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
Buying boards, they must be checked with evenness. To do this, they should be put on a flat surface and try to combine with the help of locks "Paz-Schip". Boards should not be curved or behaved.
The thickness of the door boards can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - on the entrance or between the rooms.
Before starting work, it is recommended to go through all the surfaces of the plaques with a grinding machine with fine-grained emery paper. If this device is not, then you can make a device for grinding yourself from a conventional wooden bar, securing on it sandpaper.

Making a massive door

Whatever the door model from the massive board is chosen, the basis for it will serve a boardy shield that needs to be properly used. Otherwise, wood can "lead", and such a design will be impossible to operate.

The door made of massive boards is manufactured for installation between rooms or to install on the entrance to the apartment, house and household building. Naturally, the appearance of the product in various situations will be different.

For the bath is usually used the most simple designin which the shield assembled from the boards is bonded by transverse and diagonal elements.

On this drawing you can see different options for fasteners:

General view of the door;

I - a door having a Z-shaped strapping;

II - X-shaped strapping;

III - dual Z-shaped strapping;

IV - dual X-shaped strapping;

V is a triple strapping.

To enter the house or for installation in residential areas, doors must have a more aesthetic look. Therefore, the collected shield is processed by a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the markup of the selected relief pattern is applied to the cloth, and then the relief is cut with a mill.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of the shield, pinned boards are taken, having a "spike groove" fastening, or unplanned. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, well, but if the door is made to enter the apartment or the house, the board is taken even a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for cozpostroops or baths are most often made of a unfolded boards using one of the above shifts. For doors installed in residential premises, a toll-toll board is taken.
	Next, the prepared boards are placed and cut into the desired segments.
	The next step from the board is collected in the shield. At the same time, you need to lay them in such a way that the drawing of annual rings is directed in one direction. If pinned boards are taken for the manufacture, then from the extreme element of the spike shield is neatly cut off, and the end is gently processed. When assembling a shield, pinned boards are assembled using and the castle compound "Paz-Schip" and joinery glue. Unfolded - just glued together.
	Work should be carried out on a large desktop - workbench, where it is possible to place the door cloth completely, and put it perfectly smoothly.
	The assembled and glued panel of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and is left to dry.
	The finished dried shield is processed by a mill, to the perfectly smooth state. At the same time, the joints between the boards become practically imperceptible.
	It should be noted that if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is pasted perpendicular to the previous one, and all the resulting design is clamped into clamps. As a result, a sufficiently heavy powerful shield having a thickness suitable for installation on the entrance to a house or apartment is obtained. It is especially possible that the door is made, on which any embossed drawing will be filled out or cut out or cut out.
	Next, you need to build a shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two - three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, the details are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible form and dimensions are shown in the figure on the left. Such a configuration must be observed for easy entry of the crossbar in the groove, which will be carved for it in the door canvas.
	Then there is a markup of places on the door of the door, where the grooves for crossbar will be carved. The finished transverse elements are applied to them and outline with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and note the depth to which the grooves will be selected in the shield boards. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ the thickness of the board.
	According to the plates made on the shield, the transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut out. The milling cutter is capable of making their surface perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will enter their "nests" fairly easy, but very tight. Additionally, the grooves are wetted with carpentry glue. You can cut the groove and manually - the oppreels are first made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected by the chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them on the one hand, and then gradually rushing inside using a rubber hammer or a conversion.
	In the collected form of a canvas, fortified by cross, will look like this.
	If it is planned to decorate a ready-made shield with some kind of relief pattern, then its outline should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that, on the hand mill, the cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed, and the selected pattern is cut without a rush.
	The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic means. If the door is planned to be installed on the entrance of the house and, it will be to be influenced by external factors, then besides the antiseptic you need to use water-repellent compositions. In the manufacture of the door to enter the apartment, the wood is recommended to cover with antipirens.
	If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, make the door more "noble" or artificially "aged" it, then for this you can use the body of a filling. The verse is covered with wood into one or more layers, seeking the necessary darkening of the texture. After drying the composition, the door can be cut into several layers of varnish.
	On the finished canvas and the door frame there is a markup to install the selected model of mounted loops. Then hinges are mounted in marked places.
	The next step on the canvas and on the door frame is placed the location of the lock, after which it is crashed into the design and set the handle. The latter step is hung the door in the doorway and conduct an accurate finish fit, if necessary.

Making a panel door

Make a panel door independently will not be difficult. The main thing is to have all the materials, a good tool at hand, to withstand all sizes, observe the growing edges and forward the corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for the one that is made of a massive board, it is necessary to make a shield, only it can consist of low-quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a small cloth, then the same bars are used, but they are not fastened into a solid surface, but with gaps.

Based on the design description, it can be made in three ways:

The first is that a frame frame (blockage) is first assembled, and then its internal space is filled in completely or partially, that is, inside the frame is created solid or small shield.
The shield can be made and separately, and then it must be fixed in the frame, after which it is finishing material.
The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is squeezed by the frame and facing.

Each of the ways has its advantages and cons, and which one choose - the master chooses independently. Below, for example, the first version of the door manufacture will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	So, the frame (blockage) is made first, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a timber, cross section, approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut into the size of the future canvase (length and width).
	Prepare a bar, you must select the connection that will be used on the corners. There are several types of compounds, but the simplest can be called the one that is called "in Polterev". The grooves are first placed at the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very precisely, and then easily selected using the usual manual hacksaw and the chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the bar. The grooves are missing and combined on the corners, and they need to be monitored using a construction corner, as the bars must be perfect perpendicular. During the junction of the frame, the frame must lie on a rigidly smooth surface, and after connecting the angles, it is left to dry on the same table without shifting.
	After drying the glue on the compounds, they must be copied with the bellows for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are dried. Then, they are neatly driven by glue treated with glue.
	One side of the frame is needed immediately after bonding and drying the frame to bore one of the selected materials - it may be plywood, as described above, but more often, the Fiberboard is chosen from the considerations of efficiency. A sheet carved on the desired size is laid on a flat table, then the frame is placed on it and its location is placed on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and joiner glitters are taken to marked strips. The frame is then returned to the place and fastened to the facing material. In this position under the press, the whole design should be good. It should be noted that very often for the rigidity of the frame structure between its side bars, one or two crossings are mounted
	Further, the inner space of the frame is filled with one of the selected fillers' materials - it can be a timber, MDF segments or other retained woodworking waste or low quality wood. So, in principle, all shield structures make, and they only differ in the type of filling. All filled elements are glued together, and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and the bars of the frame. Before covering the whole design of the entire design, we must give glue well to dry.
	This scheme presents a frame-shield design, and the inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and fine-frequency versions. These elements are designed for hard-link lock or door handle.
	While driving glue, you need to prepare material for facing the outside. For this, the perimeter of the framework is measured and one or two canvases of the finishing material is cut out for this size. If you plan to stick two sheets, the usual Fiberboard is first glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or a veneered plywood. It is desirable to send the door to the press, which can be constructed independently, for example, closing the polyethylene film with a web, then lay plaster plates on top.
	If you wish, instead of a laminated sheet for the trim, you can use racks from a natural tree, but they will have to fasten to the frame, drumming the hole "under the tilt" to drown the hats of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and joinery glue. When it dies, the surface should be treated with sandpaper.
	Then, all the angular parts and the ends of the door canvase need to be processed with a milling thing - only then the door will look high quality and neat. A lock or handle-latch is crashed into the finished door leaf, and the loops are fixed. At the end, the door is suspended in the door frame.

It should be noted that the framework doors are made in the same way - the internal space is additionally strengthened by a frame from a bar or boards. But before making a frame door, you need to make accurate calculations and make a drawing.

Manufacture of a panel door

Pilented doors have the most complex design, and without special carpentry tools and stable skills of working with them, during its manufacture, do not do, as items require special processing.

Therapy doors consist of several parts that can be made of massive boards or glued bars and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly at the price. You can find a lot of different models on sale, but for self-making in the absence of significant experience in carpentry art, it is best to choose the easiest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The first thing to be done, having decided to make a panel door - it is to draw up a drawing of the future design and to put on it the dimensions of each of the parts. On this drawing, the door with four panels is represented: a) general view of the door; b) spike nodal compounds of the top, middle and lower crossing: 1-rack; 2- top cross; 3-closed cross; 4- lower cross; 5- upper furniture; 6 - Lower Midconn; 7- upper panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - sword; 10 - groove.
	To make a frame, a ram will be required - it can be made of a massive board or from a glued timber. With the latter, it will be more complicated with the latter, since due to the presence in its structure of glue, it has greater rigidity. The timber will be needed for vertical elements, cross-country and furnace. The timber must be treated with a mill, making the groove with one of its sides. And sometimes the curly sections immediately do, which will be replaced by the chair. If it is planned to use a stroke, then the surfaces around the groove must be left smooth.
	Then, you need to work on crossings, cutting off connecting spikes on both sides and finishing all edges with a mill. At the ends of the crossbar, the grooves are made for installing sealers and mines. The end side of the upper and lower crossing, which will go to the door end, remains smooth and solid.
	In the size of spikes on the cross, in the vertical bars make slots to assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully placed.
	For the manufacture of fillets, which will be installed in the grooves and bars, it will take plywood, a board or chipboard. It should be noted that all sealer parts or several of them can be replaced with glass. If glass is selected, then the strokes will also be needed, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief framing for them.
	Pilenks can have an absolutely flat plane, and after mounting into the cut-off grooves, they are framed by a figure cut-out stroke. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter by the milling agent, with which you can achieve the desired embossed configuration. If the second option is selected, the plywood or boards having a thickness greater than for flat panels are purchased for their manufacture, which can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the sealer are separated so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than cut into the grooves cut into the transverse and vertical bars, as it should be fluent in them.
	All prepared door elements are processed by antiseptic compositions and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to check all the elements once again and, if necessary, additional marking. The assembly of all parts into one canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installing in the grooves, are stolen with carpentry glue.
	The cloth assembly is made in such a sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical bars, according to the markup, all the details are pasted - cross and panels. - Next, the furnaces are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in crossbars and furnaces. - After that, the remaining vertical timber is pasted.
	- Folder strokes are latter. If necessary, a rubber hammer or a wooden mall is used to install spikes in the groove. After that, the cloth gently bursts on all sides, and its corners are checked by a building. Then, it is compressed with clamps to dry.
	On the finished door canvase, markups are made to install the fittings - mounted loops and lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final finishes of the surface.
	The door finish can be made acrylic varnishes or water-based paints. If necessary, the door surface can be made darker, and emphasize this beauty of the texture pattern of wood. To do this, the simulator is used, which can be applied to one or more layers. From above, watered wood can be covered with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating is dry, fittings are installed.

The position of the loop is as follows as shown in this scheme. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the canvas in the door frame.

These parameters, in principle, are identical to the installation of any types of cauldons in the door jamb.

In conclusion, it must be said that we make a wooden door yourself, without having experience in the joinery, is quite difficult. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools that there are far from everyone in the home "Arsenal". Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, it is best to order her professional master or buy a ready-made option.

Video: Master class on the manufacture of a pale door from a wooden array

But if it was still decided to experiment or eat an insistent desire to learn how to produce always sought-after carpentry products, then it is necessary to purchase a quality tool, both manual and electric (including, be sure to work with a set of cutters) and learn to work with it. Only after everything starts to get successfully, you can try to make individual details. In any case, if there is a desire to do this work, it means that you need to try your strength.

Learn how to make yourself, from a new article on our portal.

As you know, the situation on our planet every year is worsening more and more. For this reason, most people seek at least in their own home to create an environmentally friendly atmosphere using natural materials. fully satisfying the needs of people. Especially well, it showed itself as such elements of the design of the house, like windows and doors. To start work, you need to know how to make doors from a tree.

Wooden doors still do not lose their popularity

In the conditions of the modern world, it is not special problems, because all the details, tools and components are sold already in the finished form. It also concerns doors and windows. The range is so wide that anyone may pick up what will most of all be responsible for the facade of the house and financial opportunities. But with an increase in the range increases and the price, and the repair, each owner wants to reduce its costs.

An excellent access to people who want to save will be the manufacture of doors with their own hands. At first glance, this may seem like a very funny check, because experience and special skills are needed, but in fact there is nothing difficult about it, it is simply necessary for sure and be patient.

Safe entrance to the room with your own hands

How to make doors from wood, know a few, so often turning to shops for finished products. From the fortress of wood and its breed, further operational characteristics are directly dependent. The varieties of trees are selected for specific premises. Some breeds are better suited for household buildings, others - for interior doors, and, accordingly, the third - for the main entrance to the house. In the appearance of the door of each other differ, and is applied different technology manufacturing.

There are several varieties of doors:

shield;
filöncated;
deaf doors made of massif;
with insertion from stained glass.

Door manufacturing technology is different depending on its purpose

In most cases, the canvas with shock-resistant stained glass is used between indoor care, and the deaf are used for outer doors. Glass or stained glass inserts are decorated with artistic forging, which carries except decorative, also protective function. Filёncated web design is most often used for.

Also, the doors are divided among themselves by the number of door muffins on:

one-board;
bipoly;
one and a half.

Alone and and a half appearance are a design consisting of one wide web and another narrower. Odnipale and two-dollar, respectively, consist of the same in size of door canvases.

Preparation for work

How to make wooden doors yourself, you now know, the entrance door is made according to the same principle. For the manufacture, unlike interroom, not a plate, but an array, and the space between two plates are insulated. Mineral wool uses most often used for insulation. Fillers for exterior doors, except for thermal insulation, will provide the owners. If you want to strengthen the protection of the room, except the insulation, the metal sheet with a thickness of about 2 mm can be placed inside the "sandwich". It is this method that wooden armored doors make.

The final stage

When the frame is installed, and the canvas mechanically operate, the final work is carried out, namely attaching a loop, cut the place for the lock and install it. It is also very important to choose the proper fittings correctly, because it plays not a last role in the functionality of your doors. Resistant door leaf is only 50% of your home protection, the remaining 50% is a reliable castle. The entrance door must be equipped with two locks, the main - safe, and optional. In the manufacture of the door, it is not worth saving on the locks, because in fact: what kind of cages from the entrance doors, if there is no lock on them.

Competent design of your door will emphasize the beauty of the interior

Carefully reading the above instructions, you already probably made sure that the manufacture of a tree door is a completely feasible task that even unprofessional will be. Deciding independently make the door, you will not only save your cashBut you can demonstrate your hidden talents and abilities. Such a difficult design made by the personally will surely appreciate others.

Applying for a minimum effort, you get inexpensive, unique and in your way a unique copy of the entrance door with welcome quality and design.

03.09.2016 38414

After the construction of the walls of an apartment or private house, the builders go to the stage of finishing the premises. Already at this stage of construction there is a need to install the input protection of internal premises from the negative impact of external factors. Internal interior doors are also needed, first of all on the bathrooms and bathrooms.

What doors can be done yourself

Most housing owners prefer to contact specialized organizations, ordering door designs there or purchasing them in construction stores. However, there are situations when you can hand.

Entrance or domestic cottage house and bath.
Temporary door on.
All types of doors in a situation where the budget does not allow to turn to professionals.
This is an option for people who can handle the tool and wood.

The best material in order to make the door itself is a tree. Such structures may be frame or wooden array.

Advantages and disadvantages

Durability, environmental friendliness, reliability, good material of material for processing - these are the positive qualities of these devices.

High hygroscopicity can be attributed to the negative parties, as a result of which the material swelling is possible and the framework of the frame, as well as the need for permanent care, to maintain a good commodity type.

What wood is used as raw materials

By making a decision on an independent manufacture of a building element, the master chooses the material suitable for a particular design.

pine is one of the cheap materials, well-to-handing, but with time may dismiss;
olhu is also an affordable, light and soft wood, but it is necessary to take into account its ability to dry;
berezu - it combines density and sufficient hardness with viscosity and beautiful texture, but this material can deteriorate over time;
oak boards - distinguished by high strength and durability, requires skills in wood processing;
beech - it also refers to solid rocks, and due to the ability to absorb moisture requires additional processing;
larch, nut and maple - perfect material for a beautiful door, durable and sustainable to all influences;
in the premises of expensive apartments or cottages for interior doors, a red tree is used in a veneer.

Tool for the manufacture of doors

When going to yourself to make the door, you need to think about which tool to prepare for this work. Product options are somewhat and for each needed its own set of devices. However, there are always sets that are always:

roulette;
chisel;
hacksaw;
corolon and long rigid line;
drill;
screwdriver and screwdriver set;
grinding devices;
strong sharp knife for woodwork.

manual circular;
milling machine with manual control;
grinding with grinding circles on wood.

Door in the budget "shield" execution

From the boards of 50 mm thick, without applying the special skills of the cabinet. This door can be attributed to a budget version, the specialists are called - "with the swords". It may be a temporary design if it is planned to install a more expensive option in this place. At the same time, it is good for a cottage house or baths in the country area. Its dignity is durability and high strength. In this case, the doors of pine are the cheapest option.

The size of the door is determined by the ongoing impeller. The box is installed in it and after that, the desired parameters of the future door design is made.

In the width and on the upper edge, it must be 10-15 mm less than the size of the box, and at the bottom edge to defend from the threshold by 15-20 mm.

On a sheet of fiberboard, laid on a flat surface, the contour of the intended door is applied. Special attention should be paid to the holding of 90 degrees across all corners of the contour.

For such a design, you need to prepare boards with a thickness of 50 mm, previously processed by the plane. From both sides, a quarter is selected, so that when assembling, the slots are formed between the boards.

The width of the boards is calculated in such a way that the selected circuit contains a multiple number of elements of the same size. In this case, the design will look carefully.

Prepare the boards of the desired size, it is necessary to put them in the Fiberboard contour drawn on the sheet, consolidating the resulting shield by temporary brackets. Then, with the help of an electrical saws from above and from the bottom of the shield, a washed under cooked in advance of the knaps. To do this, the saw is set at an angle of 60 degrees. The unnecessary part of the wood is knocked out by the chisel.

The swords are prepared from bars and in standard designs are sizes:

at the bottom of the bar on one side of 50 mm, from the other 45 mm;
at the top of the top - on one side of 35 mm, with another 30 mm.

Thus, it turns out a kind of wedge of the trapezoidal form in the profile.

These knaps are inserted into the cooked grooves. The final consolidation is made on wooden spikes or glue.

From the right edge of the upper key to the left edge of the lower line is installed. Previously, it makes oblique seasons for a dense installation to the knaps. Sun is attached to spikes or wood screws.

Budget door of wood and fiberboard

You can make a simple carcass, filler and Fiberboard. This will require the following materials.

50 mm thick board to make a frame.
The DVP sheet is cut off shields for the outer surface.
The filler of the inner surface is a stone wool insulation, a pressed corrugated cardboard or other suitable material.

For a start, the list of fiberboard is laid on a flat surface. After that, the door contours are applied to it, clearly withstanding the angles of 90 degrees.

On this circuit, a frame of a fifty-millionth board is collected. It is collected in the variant "spike - grooves" when the cross-cutting groove is cut in one board, and in another spike, suitable in size to the prepared groove. Another option is a quarter sample at the ends of the boards, followed by laying one to another.

When assembling the "spike - groove", the fixation is made using glue and wooden round spikes. When assembling "In the lining" - boards better fasten with wood screws.

In the middle of the door rectangle, a wooden plank is inserted to provide rigidity of the frame. So that the frame does not change the geometry in the process of further assembling the door partition, it is necessary to fix it with temporary brackets.

Two sheets of the door loop are cut out of the fiberboard. One sheet is attached by self-drawing to the harvested frame.

Formed internal voids are filled with the selected filler. After that, the second sheet is attached to the frame on the other hand.

If necessary, accessories - handles and latches.

Such a homemade wooden door is installed at the entrance to the bath and toilet, or as another interroom partition.

Pilented door design

Manufacturing a wooden door with their own hands is possible in the fillety execution. This is more complicated way. A person who is taken for such a job must have certain skills in tree processing.

Pilencents are the optimal option when homemade manufacture. Pine - cheaper material, at the same time, the board of it is easily processed and is distinguished by durability.

Pilensecourse: frame or blockage, core, panels.

The scribblet assembly begins with the manufacture of strapping, which is the framework of the whole design. The bars of the strapping are of different thickness. If their thickness is about 44 mm, then they are connected by the "spike - groove" by one spike. With the thickness of the frames of the frame to 54 mm - the pairing of two spikes, and with thicker bars - in three. The attachment of bars is made on glue using round wooden spikes.
Mountains are the bars of the same thickness as the binding. Their quantity depends on the structure of the web and can be from one to three. In some cases, in addition to transverse reinforcements, a longitudinal furnace is installed. These elements strengthen the door system and besides the panels are fixed in them. Mountains are connected to the strapping also in the "Schip - groove" option.
Pilenks are made of wooden array, multilayer plywood, as well as from special reinforced glass. Flight fillets in strapping and fixtles can be different ways - in a quarter without layouts, with the help of self-tapping screws; In a deeper quarter with layouts that hold the sealer in the structure of the web, layouts are fixed by self-drawing; In a deaf spool.

This is done due to the fact that the wooden door canvas can gain moisture or dry, depending on the season.

If the master has artistic skills, then the fillets can be made with patterns.

After the final assembly of the panel door canvase, he needs to give a few days to "fly away" so that possible damasters can be revealed. Then the canvas paint or decorate another reasonable way.

Attention! When painting, you need to pay attention to one feature. After applying the first layer of paint or varnish on a wooden surface, pryers appear, forming surface roughness. When the paint is driving, it is necessary to pass a fine-grained skin on a wooden surface. The door becomes smooth and you can safely apply the second layer.

So, the door is quite possible. The main thing is to correctly evaluate the abilities and opportunities, to correctly select the raw material, and in the manufacture of the door design, exercise accuracy and safety technique. All the same, wood is soft material, and a tool for its processing is used especially sharp.