Correctly selected wheel rims mean safety on the road and rational fuel consumption, longer transmission life and a stylish look for your car.

Wheel rims are divided into two main groups: steel and light alloy.

Steel stamped wheels consist of a rim and a disc welded to it. These parts are made by stamping from sheet steel and connected to each other by resistance spot welding. After that, the discs are stained.

This method of making discs is simple and inexpensive. A large number of vehicles are fitted with steel rims as standard from the factory. Installation by the manufacturer of alloy wheels on the car is usually an option. Although, recently, this trend has been decreasing in favor of alloy wheels.

Strong and inexpensive steel discs have a high impact strength, therefore, under strong impacts, they do not split, but deform, which makes it possible to restore them even in cases of very strong crushing of the rims.

The main disadvantages of stamped discs are a large mass, which is not possible to reduce, since with a smaller wall thickness, strength characteristics, a tendency to corrosion when the protective coating is broken, a uniform appearance and low manufacturing accuracy are reduced (which means that problems with balancing). The large weight of the disc negatively affects the dynamics of acceleration and braking of the car, the operation of the suspension and the ride comfort.

Alloy wheels have unlimited design possibilities, high manufacturing accuracy, perfectly remove heat from the brake unit, but most importantly, they are lighter than steel discs. These are common virtues. Specifically, it is possible to judge their pros and cons only by taking into account the way and from what alloy they are made. There are many nuances here, the wheel is not the wheel.

Light-alloy wheels are made by casting or forging from high-strength alloys based on aluminum, magnesium or titanium. Magnesium and titanium discs are lighter and stronger than aluminum, but magnesium is less resistant to corrosion, so magnesium discs have to be coated with multilayer protective coatings, and titanium is too expensive. Therefore, they are used on very expensive, prestigious, or tuned sports cars that are not intended for everyday driving.

Cast aluminum wheels are about 15 - 30% lighter, depending on the design, than steel ones. This is their main advantage, since the installation of such discs reduces the weight of the unsprung parts of the car.

This means that when driving on uneven roads, the smoothness of the machine is improved by reducing vibrations and the resource of suspension and transmission parts is increased by reducing the loads acting on them.

Lightweight wheels quickly restore contact with the road surface when hitting an obstacle, which increases the stability and control of the car at high speeds.

Reducing the weight of each wheel by 1 kg is equivalent to lightening the body by 15-20 kg, this also has a positive effect on the dynamics of the car, since less effort is required to accelerate and decelerate, which ultimately leads to an increase in the life of the engine, transmission, brake system and to reduce fuel consumption.

In addition, discs made of light alloys provide better cooling of the brakes, firstly, due to the high thermal conductivity of materials, and secondly, the ability to make a disc with very large holes (without losing rigidity) and directional blades, which, when the wheel rotates, drive air to the brake ...

Cast wheels are stronger and tougher than stamped steel, they take impact better and retain their shape, but they are less plastic, because they have a granular internal structure. In the event of a very strong impact, the disc does not deform, but splits, without the possibility of its recovery. In addition, a cast disc requires serious surface protection, without which it quickly becomes covered with a whitish oxide film, which, on the one hand, is protective, but, on the other hand, spoils the presentation.

Forged wheels are made by hot forging on presses of unique capacity - over 10,000 tons. This technology makes it possible to obtain wheel rims of record strength and low weight, since the metal acquires a multilayer fibrous structure as a result of forging. Forged wheels are 20 - 30% lighter than traditional alloy wheels. In contrast, forged wheels do not burst under strong impacts, but bend without cracking. In this case, the blow must be very strong.

The corrosion resistance of a forged wheel is significantly higher than that of a cast wheel, which means that the requirements for surface protection are lower. Disadvantages include high cost due to extremely expensive production equipment and a limited number of models.

"Liquid forging", or high pressure casting. This technology is used by many Japanese companies. In production, presses of lower capacity are used than in forging (3000 - 5000 tons), this allows achieving a fine-grained metal structure and reducing production costs. And in terms of their strength properties, liquid-forged discs are significantly superior to cast ones, but they do not reach solid-forged ones.

Split discs- a compromise between cast and forged - an attempt to reduce the disadvantages and emphasize the merits of both. Wheel parts are made using different technologies, for example, the rim is forged, the disk is cast. They are connected with bolts, usually titanium, since steel fasteners are subject to electrochemical corrosion. Bolt rims are in vogue now, so many companies produce solid wheels with short false bolts, which are purely decorative. To distinguish such a wheel from a prefabricated one, you should look at the disc from the back side. At a one-piece cast, the transition from rim to disc is continuous, without a seam. Prefabricated wheels, perhaps, have no technical advantages over solid cast wheels. False bolts only add weight to the wheel and can be lost, especially on our bumpy roads.

Thus, the choice of disks for a car should be determined by your needs and the amount in your wallet. If you want to give your car a modern stylish look, improve handling, smoothness, acceleration and braking dynamics, then your choice is alloy wheels. If you are engaged in motorsport or love tuning, you should purchase forged wheels. And for motorists who value reliability, but are not ready to shell out a large sum for a set of cast wheels, stamped steel discs are suitable.

To choose the right disc, you need to know the following parameters: the width and diameter of the disc, the number and location of the mounting holes, the diameter of the car hub, the offset.

It looks like the design of the rims

Installation dimensions can be determined by catalogs of selection of tires and wheels, or by direct measurement. Both must be done in specialized stores.

Disc diameter is selected according to the recommendation of the manufacturer of your car and corresponds to the landing diameter of the tire. Recently, there has been a steady trend towards an increase in the mounting diameter: machines for which, for example, 15-inch disks are standard, are converted to 16-inch, 17 and even 18-19. This is due to the desire to use low-profile tires, since their ride quality is better, although comfort suffers, the likelihood of damage to the rim increases, and the load on all suspension assemblies and hub bearings increases. You yourself must find a compromise between sport and comfort.

Rim width. The permissible deviation of the rim width from the recommended one in the catalog is 0.5 - 1.0 "for discs with an assembly diameter of up to 14"; and 1.0 - 1.5 inches for discs with a diameter of 15 inches or more. It is better, of course, to choose a disc with a standard width. The use of both too wide and too narrow discs relative to the width of the tire profile (see figure) is undesirable, since this violates the design profile of the tire (the sidewalls are either compressed by the rim flanges or stretched on it), due to which its driving characteristics deteriorate - reaction to turn, resistance to withdrawal, lateral stiffness.

There is also a "popular" way to select the width of the disk.

tire tread width - 20% = rim width

For example: 195 / 65R15;

width 195 mm - 20% = 156 mm;

divide by 25.4 (1 inch = 25.4 mm) = 6.1 inches, round to the nearest standard range to 6 inches - a rim of that width for a 195 / 65R15 tire.

You need to understand that this method is not optimal and can only be used when it is not possible to use the catalog, because when determining the width of the disc by car manufacturers, not only the tread width of the tire is taken into account, but also the height of the profile, dimensions and weight of the car, and etc.

Diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes are located- PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter). For example, PCD100 / 4 means that this diameter is 100 mm, and the number of holes is 4. It is impossible to install discs with a violation of the PCD diameter - this will lead to the fact that of all nuts or bolts, only one will be fully tightened, the rest of the holes " will lead away ", and the fasteners will remain under-tightened or tightened with a bias, and the wheel landing on the hub will be incomplete. On the move, such a wheel will "beat", in addition, incompletely tightened nuts will loosen by themselves.

In addition, the disc is selected according to the diameter of the central hole.(in case of a minus error, the wheel cannot be put on the hub) and by the peculiarities of the mounting holes: tightening the bolts (nuts) "on a plane", "on a sphere" or "on a cone".

Wheel offset (ET) is the distance between the longitudinal plane of symmetry of the rim and the mounting plane of the wheel. Departure can be zero, positive, and negative. The offset is indicated, for example, ET30 (mm), if its value is positive, or ET-30, if it is negative, or by the words OFFSET, DEPORT.

The higher the ET value, the deeper the disc "sits" in the wheel housing. The lower the ET, the more the disc sticks out of the wheel housing. Therefore, car owners often strive to reduce the disc offset.

On the image: Left - a wheel with a standard offset ET, on the right - a wheel with a reduced offset ET.

The tolerance for the departure change is plus or minus 5-8 mm from that indicated in the catalog.

Of course, reducing the offset makes the wheel track wider, slightly increases the stability of the car, the car passes corners more confidently and takes on a stylish racing look. But at the same time, the impact on the steering wheel of shocks from road irregularities increases, and this does not affect the handling in the best way. In addition, the load on the wheel bearings of the suspension increases. Excessively protruding tires from the wheel arches will throw mud on the sidewall and side windows and can touch the wheel arches.

In order for the car to be not only beautiful, but also safe, one should not abuse the disc width and reduced offset, it is advisable not to change the parameters beyond the specified tolerances.

On tuning and sports modifications, the departure is changed, but this is done in conjunction with a number of other changes in the car.

In any case, after changing wheels, observing precautions, you need to conduct a thorough test - drive of new disks in order to feel how the behavior of the car has changed.

And one more piece of advice. Today, it is not economically viable to have one set of disks, because this means the need to rebuild tires when changing wheels seasonally. Firstly, for 3-4 rebuilds, you will pay an amount equivalent to the cost of one disc. Secondly, each re-beading causes small, but nevertheless, damage to the tires, which after a while will begin to let air through at the joints with the rims. Thirdly, when boarding, scratches on the disc are possible, which eventually lead to its corrosion. Plus, there are queues at the tire service when winter comes “suddenly”. Having two sets (summer and winter) mounted wheels can make your life much easier: you will save your time, save some money and extend the life of your wheels and tires.

Selection of disks for a car

Almost every car wheel has its markings. If it is on the disk, then it will not be difficult to understand all the necessary information that will determine the degree of its compliance with a particular car. However, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the vehicle's operating manual before choosing your own car rims. It will definitely contain the parameters required and recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

The size D(measured in inches) - the diameter of the annular part of the rim on which the tire rests. It is also called “ landing diameter».

The size V(measured in inches) - the distance between the inner surfaces of the bead flanges of the wheel. The possible width of the profile of the tires installed directly depends on it. A deviation in 0,5-1 inch, but for low-profile tires this deviation should be minimal.

ET(measured in millimeters) is the distance from the plane of the disc, which is adjacent to the hub, to the plane that passes through the axis of the middle of the width of the rim of the disc. This parameter determines how deep the disc is recessed into the car arch. It is also called " offset (removal) of the disk". A deviation within the limits of up to 5 mm. In case of large deviations, it is necessary to try on the disks, since it is possible that the disk will rest against the wheel arch liners, suspension parts or elements of the car's brake system. In addition, the installation of wheels with an offset less than envisaged will lead to a significant decrease in the stability of the vehicle, increased steering sensitivity and uneven distribution of braking forces.

PCD(has a measurement of pcs / mm) - means the number of holes for fasteners / the diameter of the circle of the centers of the holes. It is this size of the rim that must absolutely correspond to the values ​​stated by the car manufacturer. If you change it, it will be impossible to securely fix the wheel on the car hub. Even a deviation in 1 mm will lead to skewing of the wheels and disc mounting parts.

HUMP(measured in millimeters) - the distance between the annular protrusions, which serve to additionally fix the beads of tubeless tires during installation.

DIA(measured in millimeters) - the diameter of the center hole. Its size should correspond to the size of the diameter of the centering lug located on the car's hub. Diameter deviation is allowed only upward. In this case, it is necessary to install special adapter centering rings. Some domestic "craftsmen" manage to install light-alloy wheels with a DIA value lower than the standard on cars by drilling out the central hole of the disc. However, such modernization can lead to negative consequences due to changes in the structure of the disc metal.

By the way! You can choose wheels for your car in our catalog.

Right size

Size: "Width-rim"

This ratio includes two parameters - rim width and mounting diameter... The vast majority of modern passenger cars are equipped with 13-, 14-, 15-, 16-, 17-inch wheels. Recently, there has been a tendency to increase the mounting diameter. On cars for which 13-inch wheels are standard, 14- and even 15-inch wheels are often installed. This trend is explained by the desire of car owners to use tires of low and ultra-low series, since their driving characteristics are better than that of high-profile tires. But with a constant wheel diameter, the lower the tire profile, the more metal in the wheel, and, accordingly, less rubber. The use of steel discs with an increased mounting diameter is impractical, since this increases the total mass of the wheel, but the use of light-alloy discs will increase the mounting diameter without making the wheel heavier. On sports versions of production vehicles, brake elements of a larger size are installed, therefore, the discs must also be larger than the mounting diameter, since the parts of the brake system will rest against the disc rim.

Rim width

There is a golden rule of thumb when choosing a rim width - it should be 25% smaller than the tire's section width. Example: to select the width of the rim for a tire size 185/60 R14 it is necessary to convert the value of the tire profile width from millimeters to inches. This requires 185 divided by 25.4 (the number of millimeters in one inch). In inches it will be 7.68. Subtract 25% from this value and round the resulting number to the standard value.

Those. the conversion formula will look like this: 185/25,4-25%=5,46 ... Thus, for a tire size 185/60 R14 it is necessary to use a disc with a width 5,5 inch. The permissible deviation of the disc width from the standard is 0,5-1 inch for discs with a diameter of up to 15 inches and 1-1,5 inches for discs over 15 inches in diameter.

Of course, it is best to match the disc exactly to the tire. The use of both too narrow and too wide discs is undesirable, since this violates the design profile of the tire. Its sidewalls are either compressed by the rim flanges, or stretched on it. As a result, the driving characteristics of the tire are violated - its lateral stiffness, drag resistance, deteriorates reaction to a turn, etc. Also, changing the size and shape of the contact patch of the tire with the road surface significantly increases the risk of aquaplaning, which in rainy weather can lead to serious consequences.

Size: "Car-wheel"

PCD

As already mentioned, it is necessary to use on a specific car model only those discs whose PCD value is determined by the vehicle manufacturer. For example, wheels with a PCD value of 4x100 are often installed on the hub of a car with 4x98 PCD. It seems that the difference of only 2 mm should be completely insignificant, however, in this case, only one bolt (or nut) out of four will be fully tightened. The rest of the holes will lose their centering and the fasteners will either not be able to reach, or will be tightened with a skew, since the seating of the disc on the hub will be incomplete. And on the move, such a wheel will vibrate strongly and, in addition, the tightened threaded elements will spontaneously unscrew.

DIA

As a rule, standard car wheels have a center hole that fits exactly to the hub axle. In the factories of manufacturers, the wheels are centered precisely along this hole - its diameter is called " landing". But when buying discs in a store, it often turns out that the central hole of the disc turns out to be slightly larger than the standard one. You shouldn't be surprised at this - most manufacturers make discs with a central hole of a deliberately increased diameter and complete the disc with a set of adapter rings. This allows it to be installed on various car models. In this case, the wheels are centered on the PCD value.

Wheel offset (ET)

There are three types of wheel offset - null, positive(the disc hub protrudes outward relative to the center axis of the rim) and negative(the disc hub is recessed inward relative to the center axis of the rim). Each car model has a standard drive offset value. This ensures optimum handling and stability of the vehicle, as well as the lowest load on the wheel bearings. German automakers refer to departure as “ ET", French - like" Deport", English-speaking producers - as" Offset". Installation of wheels with an abnormal disc offset is undesirable, since a decrease in the offset dramatically increases the load on the hub bearings and the suspension as a whole, and an increase leads to unwanted friction of the disc against the suspension or brake system elements.

Disc Marking Examples

6x15 ET35 5x100 D57.1, where:

• 6 - disc width in inches;
• 15 - disc diameter in inches;
• ET35- disk overhang in millimeters;
• 5x100- the disc has five fastening holes with a circle diameter of the centers of the holes 100 mm;
• D57.1- the disc has a central hole with a diameter of 57.1 mm.

1. What needs to be done?

Choose the right rims for the existing car, along the way, having dealt with all the necessary parameters.

2. What parameters of the disk should be considered when purchasing?

Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels, you need to consider the following parameters:

• disk type;
• mounting (or landing) diameter;
• the number and diameter of the location of the mounting holes (PCD);
• disk width;
• disk departure (ET);
• diameter of the central (hub) hole;
• the shape of the mounting holes;
• the presence of humps.

Let's make a reservation right away: if by this moment you have no longer the desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing disks, simply use the selection service for a car in large online stores. There, you can simply indicate the model of your car and get discs that are guaranteed to fit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get down to it.

3. Disk type - what they are

All discs by the type of manufacture are generally divided into three types: stamped, cast and forged. The question of choosing a specific type is a topic for a separate material, but here we will give the main differences.

Stamped discs- the cheapest: these are the same wheels that you see on the basic trim levels of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break when struck, but crumple, and later they can be easily repaired. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.

Alloy wheels compete with the stamped ones in popularity. Such discs are made not of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to the manufacturing technology, alloy wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, together with a lower weight than that of "stamps", makes them popular. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, we can mention the higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not crumple under a strong impact, but crack. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.

Forged wheels- the highest quality and most expensive option. They are manufactured by hot die forging, which provides the best internal metal structure and, accordingly, the highest strength at the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner, the choice is between inexpensive but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

4. Mounting (landing) diameter

This is an obvious parameter: the diameter of the disc's circumference in inches. Typically, it is designated with the letter R: that is, the R 17 disc is 17 inches in diameter.

Note especially: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and came from the tire parameters, where it is also mistakenly used in the meaning of "radius", in reality it means the rim diameter of the tire. In the case of the R tire, this is the marking of the radial structure of the cord, but for the disc, this marking is practically irrelevant. However, the erroneous "radius" in the meaning of "diameter" and the accompanying R are so ingrained into speech that most sellers and services for selecting disks are already used by default.

The permissible rim diameters for your car are indicated in the owner's manuals and on stickers in the doorways - along with the recommended tire pressures. When buying tires, it is worth remembering that their rim diameter must match the diameter of the rims.

It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: too large discs, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the parameters of the suspension, affecting the wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort promises to travel on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch in excess, usually go without significant consequences.

5. The number and diameter of the location of the mounting holes (PCD)

This is the so-called "bolt pattern": the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, "Pitch Circle Diameter"). The number of fixing bolts can be different and increases with increasing mass and speed of the car: usually there are 4-6 of them, but there can be more or less (at least 3). Most VAZ cars have a bolt pattern of 4x98, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).

The looseness of the disc must be observed: although some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, this is not so. The seemingly insignificant 2 mm difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four mounts will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to run out. Part of the problem can be solved by using bolts with a "floating cone" (about them below), but in general, the use of discs with inappropriate bolt pattern should be avoided.

6. Disc width

This parameter is as simple as diameter: it is the width of the disc in inches. It is usually denoted by the letter J in the parameter list: for example, 5.5J is a disc with a width of five and a half inches.

The width of the disc, as a rule, is indicated in the same places as the permissible rim, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for a car, the width of the rim is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed to be used with a rim of a certain width, but with some allowable error.

7. Drive out

The overhang of the disk is the distance from the mating plane of the disk attachment to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disk. Let's put it more simply: the central axis of symmetry is the line dividing the disc in half along the width described above, and the mating plane is the point where the disc touches the hub and is screwed to it.

The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the mating plane, then positive ... In other words, the larger the offset, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.

Departure is a rather important parameter: it also directly affects the operation of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect overhang not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear of the chassis and bearings.

8. Diameter of the central (hub) hole

The diameter of the center hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. It is usually referred to as "Dia", "DIA" or "D" in the disc specification sheet. This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disc is less than required, the disc simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, centering rings will be required to center the disc on the hub.

Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disc with a center hole that is too large will center itself on the hub by tightening the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, runout and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disc and the hub and the presence of centering rings, if necessary.

9. Shape of mounting holes

The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will hold the disc. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly tapered plane that is adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter.

The latter is related to the minimum thickness of the stamped disc. The cast disc is noticeably thicker than the stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of other fasteners. In addition to the tapered one, the seat of the mounting hole of some discs can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.

And one more thing: there are bolts with the so-called "floating cone": they allow to partially compensate for a slight discrepancy between the PCD disc and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring, put on the bolt, and is displaced relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.

10. The presence of humps

Hump Are the protrusions on the outer surface of the rim that secure the tubeless tire to the rim. Remember the pops that are heard when a tire is inflated after being installed on a rim? This is the moment of "landing" of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the rim of the disc. In fact, this indicator is indicated last in our material, because at the present time it is practically irrelevant: almost all modern wheels are designed for the installation of tubeless tires and have humps.

However, if, for example, you decide to purchase old-fashioned retro wheels, keep in mind that they may well be designed for the installation of exclusively tube tires, without having any humps. On them, however, you can install tubeless tires, but the issue of its tight fit, as well as safety while driving, will remain open: with insufficient tire pressure, the risk of "taking off your shoes" in a turn will be very great.

Wheels for a car are not just one of its parts, they are responsible for its reliability and safety. Thus, it is very important to know how to correctly select the discs for the vehicle.

This seemingly insignificant detail can either turn your car into a special and solid car, or completely ruin its appearance. As of today, you can rims by brand and by wheel size. It is not at all necessary to purchase them from the company that produced the car. Do it easier - buy similar ones, but they may differ in the type of material, quality and structure of the knitting needles.

Types of disks for cars

Everyone knows that rims are light-alloy (forged and cast) and steel (stamped).

Steel

This type is the most affordable and highly durable. They are perfect for cars that constantly cover considerable off-road distances. A strong blow can only slightly crumple the stamped disc, which the driver can then easily repair at the nearest service station.

Steel rims are produced with low precision, which is easily eliminated during balancing. Also, some manufacturing companies began to produce high precision stamped wheels.

This type, unfortunately, is why they are covered with a special protective coating: enamel, chrome, etc.

The main disadvantage of steel wheels is their high weight, which significantly degrades the performance of the vehicle. They are also very unattractive and oblige their owner to purchase caps.

Light alloy

Cast and forged wheels have an attractive appearance and are very diverse. They are characterized by high precision, which greatly facilitates balancing and eliminates radial and axial runout during movement. With them, your brakes will work more efficiently due to good airflow and high thermal conductivity.

Light-alloy wheels are reliable and lightweight. This allows them to be dispersed and stopped much easier than steel ones. Their use makes it possible to increase the service life of ball joints, shock absorbers, bushings and silent blocks. Also, light alloy wheels reduce the load on the suspension.

It should be noted that all of the above features have a good effect on the dynamics of the car, its handling, stability and fuel consumption.

Today, aluminum and magnesium alloy wheels are produced. If you are the owner of a sports car, then magnesium is more suitable for you - they are lighter than aluminum, but not as resistant to corrosion.

Light alloy are divided into two types: forged and cast. The selection of cast wheels is carried out according to the same rules as for steel. They are great for cars that are equipped with large disc brakes. Forged wheels are expensive, but they are lighter and more durable than cast ones.

Specifications

Regardless of the type and type of discs, as well as their brand and manufacturer, they are all characterized by a small list of parameters that you need to pay attention to when buying them:

1. Wheel rim diameter. They are currently available in 10-19 "diameters. Most of all, 13-16-inch ones are in demand.
2. Rim width. When buying, please note that the rim should always be 25-30% narrower than the profile, otherwise it will have a bad effect on the driving characteristics of your car.
3. The diameter of the mounting holes. This characteristic must correspond to the standard one with high accuracy (almost to a millimeter), otherwise the wheel nuts can unscrew on their own.
4. Center hole diameter. This parameter must fully correspond to the axle hub or be sold with a set of special adapter rings.
5. Departure of the wheel. It is calculated separately for each car brand. It should be positive if the hub protrudes from the center of the rim, and neutral or negative if it is concave.

Video on how to choose wheels:

If, when choosing car wheels, you are guided only by their appearance and cost, then, most likely, your car is a frequent visitor to the service station. Remember, driving around a car can be disastrous.

Correctly and competently selected disks for a car are not only your safety and care for passengers, but also low fuel consumption along with an increased transmission service life and a fascinating view of a stylish car.

How to choose the right wheels for your car and what to look for

All rims can be divided into two large groups

1. Steel- essentially ordinary steel
2. Light alloy or cast- metals with increased strength and lighter than stamping

The design of the stamped wheels is simple and straightforward. The sheet steel is stamped and the individual parts are spot welded together. The disc is then dyed and sent to a store or conveyor.

This way of equipping the car is simple and inexpensive. A significant mass of cars coming off the assembly line have just such wheels. Installing alloy wheels on a car is already an additional option, for which you need to pay a decent amount.

Types of wheel disks for cars more

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner, the choice is between inexpensive but boring stamped ones and more expensive and beautiful cast ones.

How to choose alloy wheels for a car

Cast or stamped, which is better

First of all, make sure you exactly want alloy wheels, not stamped steel. The differences between aluminum alloy and steel wheels are huge and it ultimately depends on what you, as a driver, want from your wheels. And the disadvantages of cast steel are quite enough. We will not fully compare them in this article, but we will list the main disadvantages of alloy wheels:

• Cast - more expensive when buying (about 2-3 times)
• Casting is more expensive in repair and balancing, which is important for the quality of our roads
• Light alloy ones are much harder than steel ones, which determines what exactly can be damaged if they hit a pit, pothole or when driving on high protruding rails: if a steel rim often takes the brunt of it, then a cast disc cuts rubber quite easily, while it itself also crumples, only less than steel would crumple. However, the result is the same: in both cases, you will have to straighten the disk, and now look at the point above.

How to choose rims for a car by tires

Like any normal motorist, of course, you know the diameter of the wheels of your car. This is the so-called mounting diameter of the rim, which corresponds to the inner diameter of the tire. You can buy rims with a larger diameter than the "standard" ones, equipping them with low-profile rubber (the outer diameter of the wheel will remain the same). When using cast ones, such "castling" is quite justified: the weight of the wheel hardly increases, but it looks much better. However, the diameter is far from all the parameters of the rim, read on and find out what else you need to pay attention to for the correct selection of wheels for a car.

How to choose the right wheels for your car

The next parameter of the disk is its offset, the distance between the plane of symmetry and the plane of attachment. The overhang is measured in millimeters, denoted by ET (rim from German manufacturers), DEPORT (from the French) or OFFSET from manufacturers in other countries. Here it is better not to show excessive self-activity: carefully read the manual for your car and buy cast ones with the recommended offset. Some car enthusiasts use wide wheels with a reduced (compared to the standard) offset, which increases the stability of the car and gives it a sporty look. However, do not forget that the reduced overhang creates an additional load on the hub bearings.

The parameter that when choosing alloy wheels must be observed absolutely exactly the diameter of the centers of the mounting holes (pitch circle diameter, PCD) and the number of these holes. Cast with PCD markings other than the one specified in your machine's manual will not be possible to install. Pay attention to the bolts that will attach the alloy wheel to the wheel hub. Native rims, as a rule, are sold already complete with bolts, however, they may be too expensive or you will not find a model that matches the design.

Too short bolts - this is not a reliable fastening of the wheel, too long can catch fixed parts when the wheel rotates. The Latin letter DIA denotes the diameter of the central hole of the disc, the hole for the hub. It is clear that it is not possible to install a cast disc with a hole that is smaller than the diameter of the hub.

But for the opposite situation, there are adapter rings (centering rings), which are often sold complete with a disc. Many manufacturers produce alloy rims for tires with a notoriously large center bore diameter so that they can be fitted to a variety of car brands.

The last parameter that you should pay attention to is the width of the rim (landing width) of the alloy wheel (measured in inches). This parameter is important if you are choosing a rim for existing tires. Here, accuracy is very important, because when using too narrow or too wide discs, the geometry of the contact patch of the tire with the road is disturbed and, accordingly, the driving characteristics of the tire.

Which company to choose alloy wheels for a car

Going to any store, every motorist thinks about which company to choose wheels. After all, not everything brilliant and bright is worthy of attention. It is important to take into account some of the nuances and trust your mind. Let's figure it out

TOP-12 or which manufacturer to choose for the car

1. Alloy wheels made in Italy by OZ Racing are an exclusive solution for cars. These rims have already been chosen by renowned Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati. More than 180 models made of durable aluminum alloy. Exquisite design, unique style, bold colors and the latest technology to protect the disc from mechanical damage and chemical attack. Average service life is 5 years. OZ Racing cast rims are a guarantee of quality proven for years (the company has been on the market for 46 years). By the way, many sports cars in Formula 1 and other racing competitions won, including thanks to OZ disks.
2. Light alloy Enkei have long been in high demand. And this is understandable, because Japanese casting harmoniously combines modern technique of execution and classic design traditions. Enkei are manufactured in accordance with international quality standards (JGTC, VIA) using the innovative M.A.T. casting technology. (The Most Advanced Technology) at the micro level. That is why they are distinguished by their ultra-lightness (weight is 15% less than that of analogs) and high strength of the metal. Hollow spokes are attached to the rim, which significantly increases the car's cornering response and protects the wheels from bending. And due to the additional heat treatment, Enkei alloy wheels are more wear-resistant and able to withstand heavy loads.
3. BBS are suitable for both budget cars and luxury car brands. They combine German quality and reliability. The discs are made up of three parts, which are connected by strong titanium bolts. A big plus - the resistance to deformation is increased by 60%. Along the edges of the rim are hollow sections, formed by the molding method using the new Air Inside technology, which reduces the weight of the wheel by 5 kg. This know-how makes BBS discs more convenient and safer than models from other brands at this price point. Another difference between these wheels is their special shine, which is achieved by grinding a million steel balls from the bearings.
4. Alutec is another German company whose alloy wheels are selling well both in Russia and in Europe, the USA and Canada. They are absolutely not afraid of low temperatures and chemical reagents, so they can be safely “put on” on a car even in winter. In addition, Alutec castings are characterized by high wear resistance and strength.
5. But about the cast disks of the Japanese company Kosei, you can safely write that they are for real samurai. On average, their service life is 4–5 years with a minimum number of trips for repairs. Casting wheels from Kosei withstand strong enough impacts without sad consequences. Another advantage is their aesthetics. The rims look great on any car. By the way, Kosei has been supplying wheel rims for Toyota for a long time.
6. Another worthy option that deserves attention is the German Dezent aluminum wheels. Although the company is relatively young, it has already managed to gain prestige in the world automotive market. Dezent casting is supplied to 30 countries, including the CIS countries. During manufacturing, manufacturers take into account all the nuances during the movement of the car. In addition, they develop special wheel models for individual car brands. So, special winter alloy wheels for Mercedes were released.
7. Light alloy wheels Aez - also an advantageous ratio of quality and cost. Sleek models with a thin rim, thanks to the homogeneous alloy structure, are very resistant to damage and falling into holes. The range includes all sizes - from 13 to 20 inches, so every motorist will be able to choose the most suitable kit for himself.
8. Russian SCAD are confidently conquering the car market, pushing foreign brands into the background. What is the secret of success? The answer is simple. SKAD alloy wheels are durable and reliable, without hidden defects and defects. They are highly resistant to corrosion and chemicals. In addition, the casting of the Russian manufacturer has already been chosen by Ford and Volkswagen.
9. K&K cast aluminum wheels are the only wheels with a long-term factory warranty on wheel material and construction. Manufactured entirely in Russia. In the collection of the manufacturer, there are more than 120 types of discs and about 500 variations with sizes. Today, every fourth driver chooses K&K castings for his car, because despite the rather low cost, they are of high quality and durable.
10. LS Wheels from the Taiwanese company YHI is stylish, fashionable and prestigious, but for a relaxed driving. For fans of extreme roads with a lot of potholes, these discs are probably not suitable. Although there are a lot of car owners who were satisfied with the purchase. LS Wheels rims last 5-6 years on average. They are resistant to rapid weather changes, very light and beautiful.
11. Copies of the original Replica alloy wheels are also very popular with buyers. But when choosing in favor of such casting, you need to be careful, because it is done without official permission. Therefore, there are no guarantees of quality and cannot be. Buying a replica means getting a lottery ticket, which is not always a winning one. Because of this, Replica cast rims deservedly remain in the penultimate position of the ranking. However, good copies are really reliable, durable, and will last more than one year.
12. And finally, the Chinese iWheelz alloy wheels. Their main advantage of Chinese castings is a pleasantly low price and rich color palette. They are lightweight and aesthetic. But there are fakes, the quality of which is pretty lame. Therefore, you should carefully choose light-alloy rims of this company.

How to choose stamped wheels for a car

To be honest, you don't have to ask yourself what stamping to buy, that is, in reality, drivers simply buy what is on the market and, for the most part, to make it cheaper.

The main advantage in winter of cheap steel wheels over cast models is their behavior in an accident and ease of repair. If you get into a hole - it doesn't matter - you will align the rim at the nearest service station. After a serious accident, a stamped kit cannot be saved, just like a cast one. But it costs less, the replacement will not hit the budget so much.

How wheel weight affects acceleration

One of the main parameters that directly affects the speed and dynamics of any car is the weight of the wheel rims. Every experienced car owner knows very well that by reducing the mass of the discs, you can achieve an amazing effect: increase the smoothness of the ride, increase the maximum speed and make the car's handling easier and safer. But in order to make the effect of improving dynamics more attractive, you need to understand how weight affects each of the above parameters.

Suspended and unsprung masses

For a better understanding of the relationship between the weight of a car wheel and its dynamic characteristics, it is necessary to take into account all the forces that act on the vehicle while driving. Experienced engineers and designers at automobile factories always pay attention to one important indicator - the difference between unsprung and sprung masses of a car.

From the point of view of engineering science, the sprung mass refers to all elements and parts of a vehicle that are located between the spring and the body (i.e., separated from the roadway). Conversely, unsprung mass is everything that lies between the road and the vehicle's spring. If you correctly redistribute the proportion of these two indicators, then you can increase the braking efficiency, improve the smoothness of the ride and increase the dynamic qualities of the car.

Controllability

If you hit an obstacle on the road, the maximum impact force is not on the body, but on the wheel. Only then, through the shock absorber, the residual force reaches the body, and the wheel returns to its original state. Practice shows that with a decrease in the unsprung mass of a car, the impact force on the body decreases, and maneuvering becomes smoother and more comfortable. But do not overuse the reduction in weight: if the unsprung mass is too low in comparison with the mass of the body, then it will take more time for the wheel to return to its original position. When driving in ideal weather, this will not affect safety, but on wet or slippery asphalt, the likelihood of skidding will increase significantly.

Dynamic characteristics

Any engine is capable of producing only a certain amount of energy at a time. The heavier the wheels of the car are, the more power will be spent to spin them, which means that a minimum amount of free energy will remain for fast acceleration. If we take concrete statistics, then reducing the mass of the wheels by one kilogram increases the power of the car by about 1%. Many car owners, knowing this, and also that forged wheels are lighter than cast, choose them to increase the performance of the car and reduce the acceleration time.

Smooth running

Calculations show that reducing the weight of each wheel by at least one kilogram is equivalent to reducing the weight in the cabin by 40 kilograms. In practice, you can give the following example: if you reduce the weight of each wheel by four kilograms (this is easy to do, given how much one forged rim weighs), then the smoothness of the ride will be the same as if you had four passengers in the cabin. Overclocking characteristics will remain at the same level.

The answer to the question "Which wheels are lighter, forged or cast?" everyone knows. For example, one original 20-inch cast rim for a Range Rover weighs about 25 kilograms. A forged analogue with a maximum static load for the same car - about 13 kilograms. Each wheel is about 12 kg lighter. As a result, forged wheels reduce the unsprung weight by almost half a tonne, while improved ride smoothness is achieved without loss of dynamics and acceleration characteristics.

Brief weight comparison of the main types of rims

• Steel - made using stamping technology - is the most difficult and losing option. Many car owners prefer to change such discs for lighter ones immediately after buying a car. The only advantage of this category is its reasonable price.
• Cast aluminum - give a weight saving of about 20% compared to steel counterparts. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the cooling of the brake system and are easy to process, which simplifies repairs and allows for unique design solutions for custom production.
• Forged - provide a minimum weight. A special technology for the production of forged discs (hot stamping method) allows to reduce weight by 20-50% in comparison with analogs made of aluminum and steel, respectively. And due to the unsurpassed plasticity (with a strong impact, the rim does not burst, but only slightly deforms), reliability increases. Even though forged wheels are more expensive than their cast or steel counterparts, the increased dynamic performance, improved braking performance and maximum safety justify the cost.

Conclusion

We hope our article on how to choose wheels for a car on your own has brought a little clarity and understanding and in the future will make it easier for you to make the right choice when buying.

Categories:/ / from 05/27/2018