Alteration of an LED lamp from 220. Wiring diagram for an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent lamp: do-it-yourself modernization

Is it possible to make a LED lamp (LED) powered by 220 volts with your own hands from start to finish? It turns out you can. Our tips and instructions will help you in this exciting activity.

Advantages of LED lamps

LED lighting in the house is not only modern, but also stylish and bright. Conservative fans of incandescent lamps are left with weak "Ilyich's bulbs" - the Federal Law "On Energy Saving", adopted in 2009, from January 1, 2011, prohibits the production, import and sale of incandescent lamps with a power of more than 100 watts. Advanced users have long switched to compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). But LEDs bypass all their predecessors:

the power consumption of an LED lamp is 10 times less than that of a corresponding incandescent lamp, and almost 35% less than that of a CFL;
the luminous intensity of the LED lamp is 8% and 36% higher, respectively;
the achievement of the full power of the luminous flux occurs instantly, unlike CFLs, which require about 2 minutes for this;
the cost price - provided that the lamp is manufactured independently - tends to zero;
LED lamps are environmentally friendly because they do not contain mercury;
LED service life is measured in tens of thousands of hours. Therefore, LED lamps are almost eternal.

Dry figures confirm: LED is the future.

The design of a modern factory LED lamp

The LED here was originally assembled from many crystals. Therefore, in order to assemble such a lamp, you do not need to solder numerous contacts, you need to attach only one pair.

The LED lamp consists of a base, a driver, a radiator, the LED itself and a diffuser

LED types

LED - a semiconductor multilayer crystal with an electron-hole transition. By passing a direct current through it, we get light radiation. An LED differs from a conventional diode in that if it is connected incorrectly, it immediately burns out, since it has a low breakdown voltage (several volts). If the LED burns out, it must be completely replaced, repair is impossible.

There are four main types of LEDs:

A homemade and properly assembled LED lamp will last for many years, while it can be repaired.

Before proceeding with self-assembly, you need to choose a power supply method for our future lamp. There are many options: from a battery to a 220 volt AC network - through a transformer or directly.

The easiest way is to assemble a 12 volt LED from a burnt out "halogen". But it will require a rather massive external power supply. A lamp with a conventional base, designed for a voltage of 220 volts, fits any cartridge in the house.

Therefore, in our guide, we will not consider the creation of a 12-volt LED light source, but we will show a couple of options for designing a 220-volt lamp.

Since we do not know the level of your electrical training, we cannot guarantee that you will get a properly working device at the output. In addition, you will be working with life-threatening voltage, and if something is done inaccurately and incorrectly, damage and damage may occur, for which we will not be responsible. Therefore, be careful and attentive. And you will succeed.

Drivers for LED lamps

The brightness of LEDs directly depends on the strength of the current passing through them. For stable operation, they need a constant voltage source and a stabilized current that does not exceed the maximum allowable value for them.

Resistors - current limiters - can be dispensed with only for low-power LEDs. You can simplify the simple calculation of the number and characteristics of resistors by finding an LED calculator on the network, in which not only data is given, but also a ready-made electrical circuit of the structure is created.

To power the lamp from the mains, you must use a special driver that converts the input alternating voltage into a working voltage for LEDs. The simplest drivers consist of a minimum number of parts: an input capacitor, a few resistors, and a diode bridge.

In the simplest driver circuit, the supply voltage is supplied through a clamping capacitor to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp

Powerful LEDs are connected through electronic drivers that control and stabilize the current and have a high efficiency (90-95%). They provide a stable current even with sudden changes in the supply voltage in the network. Resistors cannot do this.

Consider the simplest and most commonly used drivers for LED lamps:

the linear driver is quite simple and is used for low (up to 100 mA) operating currents or in cases where the source voltage is equal to the voltage drop across the LED;
the switching buck driver is more complex. It allows you to power high-power LEDs with a source of much higher voltage than is necessary for their operation. Disadvantages: large size and electromagnetic interference generated by the choke;
A switching boost driver is used when the operating voltage of the LED is greater than the voltage received from the power supply. The disadvantages are the same as the previous driver.

An electronic driver is always built into any 220 volt LED lamp to ensure optimal operation.

Most often, several faulty LED lamps are disassembled, burned-out LEDs and driver radio components are removed, and one new design is assembled from the whole ones.

But you can make an LED lamp from an ordinary CFL. This is quite an attractive idea. We are sure that many zealous owners have faulty “energy savings” in boxes with parts and spare parts. It's a pity to throw it away, there is nowhere to apply it. Now we will tell you how to create an LED lamp from an energy-saving lamp (E27 base, 220 V) in just a couple of hours.

A faulty CFL always gives us a high-quality base and housing for LEDs. In addition, it is the gas discharge tube that usually fails, but not the electronic device for "igniting" it. We again put the operating electronics in the stash: it can be disassembled, and in skillful hands these details will still serve something good.

Types of socles of modern lamps

The base is a threaded system for quickly connecting and fixing the light source and cartridge, supplying power to the source from the mains and ensuring the tightness of the vacuum flask. The marking of the socles is deciphered as follows:

The first letter of the marking indicates the type of base:
- B - with a pin;
- E - threaded (developed back in 1909 by Edison);
- F - with one pin;
- G - with two pins;
- H - for xenon;
- K and R - respectively with cable and recessed contact;
- P - focusing base (for searchlights and lanterns);
- S - soffit;
- T - telephone;
- W - with contact inputs in the glass of the flask.
The second letter U, A or V indicates whether the lamp base is used in energy-saving, automotive or tapered ends.
The numbers following the letters indicate the diameter of the base in millimeters.

The most common base since Soviet times is E27 - a threaded base with a diameter of 27 mm for a voltage of 220 V.

Creating an E27 LED lamp from an energy-saving one using a ready-made driver

For self-production of LED lamps, we need:

Failed CFL lamp.
Pliers.
Soldering iron.
Solder.
Cardboard.
Head on shoulders.
Skillful hands.

We will remake a defective LED CFL brand "Cosmos".

"Cosmos" is one of the most popular brands of modern energy-saving lamps, so many zealous owners will definitely have several of its faulty copies.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp

We find a faulty energy-saving lamp, which has been with us for a long time “just in case”. Our lamp has a power of 20W. So far, the main component of interest to us is the base.
We carefully disassemble the old lamp and remove everything from it, except for the base and the wires coming from it, with which we will then solder the finished driver. The lamp is assembled with the help of latches protruding above the body. You need to see them and put something on them. Sometimes the base is attached to the body more difficult - by punching dotted recesses around the circumference. Here you have to drill out the punching points or carefully cut them with a hacksaw. One supply wire is soldered to the central contact of the base, the second to the thread. Both are very short. The tubes may burst during these manipulations, so care must be taken.
We clean the base and degrease it with acetone or alcohol. Increased attention should be paid to the hole, which is also carefully cleaned of excess solder. This is necessary for further soldering in the base.
A launch board for a gas discharge tube built into a fluorescent lamp is not suitable for us to create an LED device.
The base cover has six holes - gas discharge tubes were attached to them. We use these holes for our LEDs. Place a circle of the same diameter cut with nail scissors from a suitable piece of plastic under the upper part. Thick cardboard will work too. He will fix the contacts of the LEDs.
On the reverse side, the base has six round holes in which we will install the LEDs.
We have HK6 multi-chip LEDs (voltage 3.3V, power 0.33W, current 100-120mA). Each diode is assembled from six crystals (connected in parallel), so it shines brightly, although it is not called powerful. Given the power of these LEDs, we connect them three in parallel.
Each LED shines quite brightly on its own, so six pieces in the lamp will provide good light intensity.
Both chains are connected in series.
Two strings of three parallel-connected LEDs are each connected in series.

As a result, we get a rather beautiful design.

Six LEDs inserted into the sockets form a powerful and uniform light source

A simple ready-made driver can be taken from a broken LED lamp. Now, to drive six white one-watt LEDs, we use a 220 volt driver such as the RLD2-1.
The driver is connected to the LEDs in parallel.
We insert the driver into the base. Another cut out circle of plastic or cardboard is placed between the board and the driver to avoid a short circuit between the LED contacts and the driver parts. The lamp does not heat up, so any gasket is suitable.
The positive difference between Chinese and Russian socles: they are soldered much better
We assemble our lamp and check if it works.
After assembling the lamp, you need to connect it to a voltage source and make sure that it burns

We have created a source with a light intensity of about 150-200 lm and a power of about 3 W, similar to a 30-watt incandescent lamp. But due to the fact that our lamp has a white glow color, it visually looks brighter. The part of the room illuminated by it can be increased by bending the LED leads. In addition, we received a wonderful bonus: a three-watt lamp can not even be turned off - the meter practically does not “see” it.

Creating an LED lamp using a homemade driver

It is much more interesting not to use a ready-made driver, but to make it yourself. Of course, if you are good with a soldering iron and have basic skills in reading electrical circuits.

We will look at etching the board after drawing the circuit on it by hand. And, of course, everyone will be interested in messing around with chemical reactions using available chemicals. As in childhood.

We will need:

A piece of fiberglass foiled with copper on both sides.
The elements of our future lamp according to the generated circuit: resistors, capacitor, LEDs.
Drill or mini-drill for drilling fiberglass.
Pliers.
Soldering iron.
Solder and rosin.
Nail polish or stationery corrective pencil.
Table salt, copper sulfate or ferric chloride solution.
Head on shoulders.
Skillful hands.
Accuracy and care.

Textolite is used in cases where electrical insulating properties are needed. This is a multilayer plastic, the layers of which consist of fabric (depending on the type of fibers of the fabric layer, there are basalt textolites, carbon textolites, and others) and a binder (polyester resin, bakelite, etc.):

fiberglass is fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin. It has a high resistivity and heat resistance - from 140 to 1800 o C;
foil fiberglass is a material covered with a layer of galvanic copper foil with a thickness of 35-50 microns. It is used to make printed circuit boards. Composite thickness - from 0.5 to 3 mm, sheet area - up to 1 m 2 .

For the manufacture of printed circuit boards, foil fiberglass is used.

LED lamp driver circuit

It is quite possible to make a driver for an LED lamp on your own, for example, based on the simplest circuit that we considered at the beginning of the article. There you just need to add a few details:

Resistor R3 to discharge the capacitor when the power is turned off.
A pair of zener diodes VD2 and VD3 for shunting the capacitor if the LED circuit burns out or breaks.

If we choose the stabilization voltage correctly, we can limit ourselves to one zener diode. If we put a voltage of more than 220 V, and choose a capacitor for it, then we will do without additional details at all. But the driver will turn out to be larger in size, and the board may not fit in the base.

This circuit allows you to make a lamp driver from 20 LEDs.

We created this circuit to make a lamp with 20 LEDs. If there are more or less of them, you need to choose a different capacitance of the capacitor C1 so that a current of 20 mA still passes through the LEDs.

The driver will lower the mains voltage and try to smooth out power surges. Through a resistor and a current-limiting capacitor, the mains voltage is fed to a diode bridge rectifier. Through another resistor, a constant voltage is applied to the block of LEDs, and they begin to shine. The ripples of this rectified voltage are smoothed out by a capacitor, and when the lamp is disconnected from the mains, the first capacitor is discharged by another resistor.

It will be more convenient if the driver design is mounted using a printed circuit board, and does not represent a kind of lump in the air from wires and parts. You can make the payment yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp with a homemade driver

Using a computer program, we generate our own pattern for etching the board according to the intended driver design. Very convenient and popular among radio amateurs is the free computer program Sprint Layout, which allows you to independently design printed circuit boards of low complexity and get an image of their wiring. There is another excellent domestic program - DipTrace, which draws not only boards, but also circuit diagrams.
The free computer program Sprint Layout generates a detailed board etching diagram for the driver
We cut out a circle with a diameter of 3 cm from fiberglass. This will be our board.
Select the method of transferring the scheme to the board. All methods are terribly interesting. Can:
- draw a diagram directly on a piece of fiberglass with a stationery correction pencil or a special marker for printed circuit boards, which is sold in a radio parts store. There is a subtlety here: only this marker allows you to draw tracks less than or equal to 1 mm. In other cases, the width of the track, no matter how hard you try, will not be less than 2 mm. Yes, and copper patches for soldering will come out sloppy. Therefore, after applying the drawing, it is necessary to correct it with a razor or scalpel;
- print the diagram on an inkjet printer on photographic paper and iron the printout with an iron to fiberglass. The circuit elements will be covered with paint;
- draw a diagram with nail polish, which is definitely in any house where a woman lives. This is the easiest way, and we will use it. Carefully and carefully with a brush from the bottle, draw tracks on the board. We are waiting for the varnish to dry well.
We dilute the solution: stir 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 2 tablespoons of table salt in boiling water. Copper sulfate is used in agriculture, so you can buy it in gardening and hardware stores.
We lower the board into the solution for half an hour. As a result, only the copper tracks that we protected with varnish will remain, the rest of the copper will disappear during the reaction.
With acetone, remove the remaining varnish from the fiberglass. Immediately you need to tin (cover with solder with a soldering iron) the edges of the board and the contact points so that the copper does not rapidly oxidize.
The contact points are soldered with a layer of solder mixed with rosin to protect the copper tracks from oxidation.
According to the scheme, we make holes with a drill.
We solder the LEDs on the board and all the details of the home-made driver from the side of the printed tracks.
We install the board in the lamp housing.
After all the operations carried out, you should get an LED lamp equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp

Security Notes

Although self-assembly of an LED lamp is not a very difficult process, it is not even worth starting if you do not have at least basic electrical knowledge. Otherwise, the lamp you have assembled, with an internal short circuit, can harm the entire electrical network of your home, including expensive electrical appliances. The specificity of LED technology is that if some elements of its circuit are connected incorrectly, then even an explosion is possible. So you have to be extremely careful.
Typically, the luminaires are used at 220 V AC. But designs designed for a voltage of 12 V cannot be connected to a conventional network in any case, and you should always remember this.
In the process of making a homemade LED lamp, the components of the lamp often cannot be completely isolated from the 220 V mains immediately. Therefore, you can be seriously electrocuted. Even if the design is connected to the network through a power supply, it is quite possible that it has a simple circuit without a transformer and galvanic isolation. Therefore, the structure must not be touched with hands until the capacitors are discharged.
If the lamp does not work, then in most cases poor-quality soldering of parts is to blame. You were inattentive or hastily acted with a soldering iron. But don't despair. Try further!

Video: learning to solder

It's strange: in our age, when the shops have absolutely everything, as a rule, inexpensive and very diverse, after twenty years of euphoria, people are increasingly returning to making homemade things with their own hands. Needlework, carpentry and locksmith skills flourished unthinkably. And in this series, simple applied electrical engineering is confidently returning.

15.10.2016

There are 12v halogens in the chandelier through a transformer. There is not enough light, but the power of the transformer does not allow to put more powerful lamps. Is it possible to just throw out the transformer and replace the lamps with LED 220v? Is there a difference in the cross section of the wires to the cartridges for 12 and 220?

Most likely, your chandelier has small lamps with a G4 base. Everything that follows is based on this assumption.

And brighter, maybe it won't work

You didn't list the wattage of the halogen bulbs installed, but if it's 20 watts or more, you won't get any more light by replacing the bulbs with LEDs. Not at all so that there are no sellers talking in stores. At best, the light will be the same.

A simple solution

If the goal is simply to make it brighter, despite the consumption of EE, then it is worth removing the transformer and installing more powerful halogens, but at 220 volts. The existing wires to the lamps will definitely be enough with this approach, because currents will be much lower. But heat dissipation will increase - you need to look at the ceiling lights, whether they allow such power, whether there will be overheating.

If very small G4 halogens, the so-called "little fingers", are used, then it can be difficult to find such 220 volts - they are, but they are less common than 12 volts. In this case, you can buy 220 volt GU4 halogens - they are slightly larger, but can almost always be inserted into the G4 base (these bases are usually universal).

How to replace lamps with LEDs?

If you still want to put LED lamps, then in no case should you buy G4 LED lamps for 220 volts. Here we answered why there are no powerful G4 lamps and 220 volts. Here are typical problems for buyers of such “products”:

To replace the lamps with LEDs, you need to change the transformer to LED and install the brightest G4 LED lamps that fit in the ceiling in size. But, once again - you will not get more light than from 20-watt halogens, not at all. But there are also pluses: electricity consumption will drop by 8-10 times, a the chandelier will stop heating, i.e. there will be no more darkening of the ceiling above the chandelier.

Today it is impossible to imagine a normal life without electricity. However, the constant increase in prices for such a blessing of civilization dictates its own conditions, forcing a person to look for sources of light with less consumption. For this reason, incandescent lamps gradually began to be replaced by fluorescent and CFLs. And now LED lighting fixtures are being installed at all. But then the question arises, what to do with old lamps from LD? Today we will consider a circuit instead of a luminescent one.

Reasons and reasons for replacing emitters

Despite the fact that fluorescent lamps are quite economical, they have a very big drawback. The flask of the tube is filled with gas, which contains vapors of heavy metals, including mercury. This means that they require disposal according to certain rules. Such work is done by special services, but their work costs money. It is impossible to dispose of such lighting devices as household waste.

If it is planned to replace the lighting in an apartment or a private house, where there are few lamps for fluorescent lamps, home craftsmen throw them away without hesitation, buying new ones, on LEDs. But such actions are an unacceptable waste. Having carefully understood the issue, you can upgrade old lamps with your own hands without much labor and time. At the same time, the alteration will not cost a penny.

instead of fluorescent

It is quite simple to make another from a lamp of one type; such work does not require special skills or abilities. If CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps) with a conventional base are installed in the room, then no action is required at all. It is enough just to change one light source to another. This is the easiest option. In the event that ordinary tubular lamps are installed, a slight modernization of the fixtures will be required. For each point, a home master without experience in such actions will take no more than 15 minutes. Let's figure out step by step what actions you need to take.

Tool required for the job

To replace fluorescent lamps with LEDs, you will need:

pliers;
screwdrivers (simple, curly, indicator);
stripping knife.

Preparatory work consists only in acquiring the required number of tubes on LEDs of a suitable length. The manufacturer today offers many sizes of such lamps, so choosing the right one will not be difficult. Having prepared everything you need, you can get to work.

Algorithm of actions: step by step instructions

Replacing fluorescent lamps with LEDs begins with a complete removal of the voltage. Do not think that for this it is enough to press the switch. It is not known if it is mounted correctly. If a neutral wire is connected through it to the gap, the consequences will be disastrous - an electric shock is dangerous to human life. To reliably turn off the power, an introductory machine should be used.

The next step is to check the absence of voltage on the contacts using an indicator screwdriver - insurance will not hurt. Tubular lamps are removed, and the lamp itself is dismantled.

Helpful information! After upgrading 3-4 devices, with the advent of experience, all work can be performed without removing the device from the ceiling or wall, but at first it is more convenient to work below.

All equipment in the luminaire (electronic ballasts, ballasts, starters) is dismantled. Only “cartridges” (seats) should remain in their places. Wiring diagram for an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent lamp:

On each cartridge, we connect both contacts to each other with jumpers.
From the first contact of the terminal block we stretch the wire to one of the sides, from the second to the other.

It is important to understand that the LED tube has two pins only for convenience and similarity with a fluorescent lamp. Inside the case, each pair is connected. Power is supplied from opposite sides - phase on one side, zero on the other.

After the upgrade, LED tubes are installed, and voltage is applied to check the performance. After making sure that the assembled circuit is correct, you can install the device in its original place.

For those who want to understand in more detail the connection diagram of an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent lamp, the following video is offered.

By doing such a simple job, you can save a lot of money, especially when it comes to a small office. Indeed, in such a case, you do not have to spend money on purchasing new cases for LED tubes.

Finally

The realities of the modern world dictate the need for the greatest savings - the maximum result at the minimum cost. Such modernization is just such a solution. After all, if it is possible to get a new lamp without spending a penny on it, why not do it? In addition, extra experience for a home master in the future may come in handy.

For many years now, we have been using conventional incandescent lamps to illuminate a house, apartment, office or industrial plant. However, electricity prices are skyrocketing every day, which makes us prefer more energy efficient devices with high efficiency, long service life and the ability to create the required luminous flux at minimal cost. It is these devices that include 220 volt LED lamps, the advantages of which we will try to reveal in full in this article.

Attention! This publication provides examples of circuits powered by life-threatening 220V. Only persons with the necessary education and approvals are allowed to assemble and test such circuits!

The simplest scheme

The 220V LED lamp is one of the types of lighting lamps, the luminous flux in which is created by converting electrical energy into luminous flux using an LED crystal. To operate LEDs from a stationary 220 V household network, it is necessary to assemble the simplest circuit shown in the figure below.

The 220 volt LED lamp circuit consists of a 220-240 V AC voltage source, a rectifier bridge for converting AC to DC, a clamping capacitor C1, a capacitor for smoothing ripples C2 and LEDs connected in series from 1 to 80 pieces.

Principle of operation

When an alternating voltage of 220 V of variable frequency (50 Hz) is applied to the LED lamp driver, it passes through the current-limiting capacitor C1 to a rectifier bridge assembled from 4 diodes.

After that, at the output of the bridge, we get a constant rectified voltage required for the operation of the LEDs. However, to obtain a continuous light output, an electrolytic capacitor C2 must be added to the driver to smooth out the ripples that occur when the AC voltage is rectified.

Looking at the device of a 220 volt LED lamp, we see that there are resistances R1 and R2. Resistor R2 is used to discharge the flashover capacitor when the power is off, and R1 is used to limit the current supplied to the LED bridge when it is turned on.

Scheme with additional protection

Also in some circuits there is an additional resistance R3 located in series with the LEDs. It serves to protect against current surges in LED circuits. The R3-C2 chain represents a classic low-pass (LF) filter.

Circuit with active current limiter

In this version of the circuit, the current-limiting element is the resistance R1. Such a circuit will have a power factor or cos φ close to unity, unlike previous options with a current-limiting capacitor, which is a reactive load. The disadvantage of this option is the need to dissipate a significant amount of heat on the resistor R1.

Resistor R2 is used in the circuit to discharge the residual voltage of capacitor C1 to zero.

The device of LED lamps for AC circuits with a voltage of 220V

LED light bulbs consist of the following components:

Plinth (E27, E14, E40 and so on) for screwing into a lamp holder, sconce or chandelier;
Dielectric gasket between the base and the body;
A driver on which a circuit is assembled for converting an alternating voltage into a constant of the required value;
Radiator, which serves to remove heat from the LEDs;
The printed circuit board on which the LEDs are soldered (sizes SMD5050, SMD3528, and so on);
Resistors (chips) to protect LEDs from pulsating current;
Diffuser to create a uniform light flux.

How to connect LED lamps to 220 volts

The biggest trick when connecting 220v LED lamps is that there is no trick. The connection is exactly the same as you did with incandescent lamps or compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). To do this: de-energize the base, and then screw the lamp into it. When installing, never touch the metal parts of the lamp: remember that sometimes negligent electricians can pass zero through the switch instead of a phase. In this case, the phase voltage will never be removed from the base.

Manufacturers have released LED analogues of all previously produced types of lamps with a variety of bases: E27, E14, GU5.3 and so on. The principle of installation for them remains the same.

If you bought an LED light bulb designed for 12 or 24 Volts, then you can not do without a power supply. Light sources are connected in parallel: all the “pluses” of the bulbs together to the positive output of the power supply, and all the “minuses” together to the “minus” of the power supply.

In this case, it is important to observe the polarity (“plus” to “plus”, “minus” to “minus”), since the LEDs will only emit a luminous flux if the polarity is observed! Some products may fail when reversed.

Attention! Do not confuse the DC power supply (power supply) with a transformer. The transformer outputs an AC voltage, while the power supply provides a DC voltage.

For example, you have furniture lighting in the kitchen, wardrobe or elsewhere, made up of 4 halogen lamps with a power of 40 W and a voltage of 12 V, powered by a transformer. You decide to replace these lamps with 4 LEDs of 4-5 watts each.

Attention! In this case, it is necessary to replace the previously used transformer with a 12 V direct voltage source with a power of at least 16–20 W.

Sometimes such LED lamps for spotlights are in most cases equipped with a power supply at the factory. When buying such lamps, you should also be puzzled by the purchase of a power source.

How to make a simple LED light bulb

In order to assemble an LED lamp, we need an old fluorescent lamp, or rather its base with a base, a long piece of 12 V LED strip,
and an empty 330 ml aluminum can

To power such a lamp, you need a 12 V DC source of such a size that it fits inside the jar without any problems.

So, now the production itself:

Wrap the tape around the jar as shown in the picture.
Solder the wires from the LED strip to the output of the power supply (PS).
Solder the IP input with wires to the base of the lamp base.
Securely fasten the source itself inside the jar, after cutting out a hole of sufficient size to pass the IP inside.
Glue the jar of tape to the base of the housing with the base and the lamp is ready.

Of course, such a lamp is not a masterpiece of design art, but it is made by hand!

The main malfunctions of LED lamps for 220 volts

Based on many years of experience, if the 220V LED lamp does not light up, then the reasons may be as follows:

1. Failure of LEDs

Since in an LED lamp all the LEDs are connected in series, if at least one of them comes out, the entire bulb stops glowing because an open circuit occurs. In most cases, LEDs in 220 lamps are used in 2 sizes: SMD5050 and SMD3528.

To eliminate this reason, it is necessary to find the failed LED and replace it with another one, or put a jumper (it is better not to abuse the jumpers - as they can increase the current through the LEDs in some circuits). When solving the problem in the second way, the luminous flux will slightly decrease, but the light bulb will again shine.

To find a damaged LED, we need a low current (20 mA) power supply or a multimeter.

To do this, apply "+" to the anode, and "-" to the cathode. If the LED does not light up, then it is out of order. Thus, you need to check each of the LEDs of the lamp. Also, a failed LED can be identified visually, it looks something like this:

The reason for this failure in most cases is the lack of any protection for the LED.

2. Failure of the diode bridge

In most cases, with such a malfunction, the main reason is a factory defect. And in this case, the LEDs often “fly out”. To solve this problem, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge (or bridge diodes) and check all the LEDs.

To test the diode bridge, you need a multimeter. It is necessary to apply an alternating voltage of 220 V to the input of the bridge, and check the voltage at the output. If it remains variable at the output, then the diode bridge is out of order.

If the diode bridge is assembled on separate diodes, they can be unsoldered one by one and checked with the device. The diode should only allow current to flow in one direction. If it does not pass current at all or passes when a positive half-wave is applied to the cathode, then it is out of order and needs to be replaced.

3. Poor soldering of lead ends

In this case, we will need a multimeter. You need to understand the circuit of the LED lamp and then check all the points, starting with the input voltage of 220 V and ending with the outputs of the LEDs. Based on experience, this problem is inherent in cheap LED lamps, and in order to eliminate it, it is enough to additionally solder all parts and components with a soldering iron.

Conclusion

The 220V LED lamp is an energy-efficient device with good technical performance, simple structure and easy operation, which makes it suitable for both domestic and industrial use.

It is also worth noting that if you have some devices, education and experience, you can determine the malfunctions of 220 volt LED lamps and eliminate them at minimal cost.

Theoretical justification

LEDs operate at low voltage - about 2-3V. But most importantly, for normal operation not voltage stability is required, but current stability flowing through them. When the current decreases, the brightness of the glow decreases, and the excess leads to the failure of the diode element. Semiconductor devices, which include LEDs, have a pronounced temperature dependence. When heated, the junction resistance drops and the forward current increases.

A simple example: a stable voltage source outputs 3V, while the current consumption of the LED is 20mA. When the temperature rises, the voltage on the LED remains unchanged, and the current increases up to unacceptable values.

To exclude the described situation, light sources on semiconductors are powered by a current stabilizer, which is also a driver. By analogy with fluorescent lamps, the driver is sometimes called a ballast for LEDs.

The presence of an input voltage of 220V, together with the requirement for current stabilization, leads to the need to create a complex power supply circuit for LED lamps.

Practical implementation of the idea

The simplest power supply for LEDs from a 220V network is as follows:

In the figure shown, the resistor provides a drop in the excess voltage of the supply network, and the diode connected in parallel protects the LED element from voltage pulses of reverse polarity.

As can be seen from the figure, which can be verified by calculations, a high power quenching resistor is required, which releases a lot of heat during operation.

Below is a diagram where a quenching capacitor is used instead of a resistor.

Using a capacitor as a ballast allows you to get rid of a powerful resistor and increase the efficiency of the circuit. Resistor R1 limits the current at the moment the circuit is turned on, R2 serves to quickly discharge the capacitor at the moment it is turned off. R3 further limits the current through the group of LEDs.

Capacitor C1 serves to dampen excess voltage, and C2 smoothes out power ripples.

The diode bridge is formed by four diodes of the 1N4007 type, which can be soldered from an unusable energy-saving lamp.

The circuit calculation was made for HL-654H245WC LEDs with an operating current of 20mA. It is not excluded the use of similar elements with the same current.

Just as in the previous circuit, current stabilization is not provided here. In order to prevent the failure of the LEDs, in the ballast circuit for LED lamps, the capacitance of the capacitor C1 and the resistance of the resistor R3 are chosen with a margin so that at the maximum input voltage and elevated temperature of the LEDs, the current through them does not exceed the allowable values. In normal mode, the current through the diodes is somewhat less than the nominal one, but this practically does not affect the brightness of the lamp.

The disadvantage of such a scheme is that the use of more powerful LEDs will require an increase in the capacitance of the quenching capacitor, which has large dimensions.

Similarly, the LED strip is powered from the energy-saving lamp board. It is important that the current of the LED strip matches the line of LEDs, that is, 20mA.

Using an energy-saving lamp driver

A more reliable circuit is when a driver from an energy-saving lamp is used with minimal alterations. As an example, the figure shows a conversion of a 20W energy-saving lamp to power a powerful LED with a current consumption of 0.9A.

Alteration of the LED lamp to power the LEDs

Alteration of electronic ballast for LED lamps in this example is minimal. Most of the elements in the circuit are left from the old lamp driver. The L3 choke has undergone changes and a rectifier bridge has been added. In the old circuit, a fluorescent lamp was connected between the right terminal of the capacitor C10 and the cathode of the diode D5.

Now the capacitor and diode are connected directly, and the inductor is used as a transformer.

Alteration of the inductor consists in winding the secondary winding, from which the voltage will be removed to power the LED.

Without disassembling the inductor, you need to wind 20 turns of enameled wire with a diameter of 0.4mm around it. When turned on, the open circuit voltage of the newly made winding should be about 9.5–9.7V. After connecting the bridge and the LED, the ammeter included in the power supply of the LED element should show about 830-850mA. A greater or lesser value requires correction of the number of turns of the transformer.

Diodes 1N4007 or similar can be used from another failed lamp. Diodes in housekeepers are used with a large margin of current and voltage, so they rarely fail.

All the LED driver circuits shown from an energy-saving lamp, although they provide low-voltage power, are galvanically coupled to the AC mains, so precautions must be taken when debugging.

It is best and safest to use a separating transformer with the same primary and secondary windings during operation. Having the same 220V at the output, the transformer will provide reliable galvanic isolation of the primary and secondary circuits.