Why not pictures. Why it is impossible to fit a person he sleeps

I bought my first digital 400D Kit (350D, 30D, D40X, D40, D50, E-510, E-400, D40, E-510, E-400, K100D, etc.) - Why are shots so far? This question is asked by many novice photographers. What is the "soap" and how to fix it? How to get a sharp image? Answers to these questions you will find in this article.

As an example, the Canon EOS 400D camera is considered. However, the outlined is true for other models of digital mirrors. So, the blurred or unwitting image may turn out for a number of reasons.

1. Heveling - Check out the shutter speed
There is no well-established definition for the term of the chapel. In this context, we assume that these are lubricated images when shooting a static object caused by the movement (shaking) of the camera. The reason for the instability of the chamber, as a rule, is a rough press on the trigger or trembling of the hands. To avoid the peeing when shooting with hand shutter speeds should be shorter than

1 / EFR,

Where EFR is an equivalent focal length (equivalent for a 35mm film). For Canon EOS 400D, the Crop Factor is 1.62, then the EFR \u003d F * 1.62, where F is the focal length of the lens (usually indicated on the front part). For example, for f \u003d 55 mm EFR \u003d (55 * 1.62) \u003d 89 mm (maximum focal whale lens). In this case, when shooting with hand, the shutter speed should be shorter than 1/89 seconds (for example, 1/125 s).

In order to reduce the shutter speed, you have to shoot on more open apertures or increase ISO. By the way, an increase in the sensitivity of the matrix (ISO) is not always bad - it is better to get a sharp image, albeit a little grainy than the lubricated (Fig. 1).

Canon 300d, f \u003d 50 mm, EFR \u003d 80 mm, f / 8, shooting with hands

ISO 100, 1/25 C, image Lubricated ISO 400, 1/100 s, image sharp

Fig. 1. With ISO 100, the excerpt was 1/25 C, the Tv condition was lubricated. An increase in ISO to 400 units allowed to reduce the shutter speed to 1/100 s (4 times)
and avoid "coil" - the frame turned out to be sharp

Tip: To prevent movement and achieve the best sharpness, use a tripod! In this case, the descent button is better not manually pressed, but to use a self-timer or remote (suitable for static scenes). Additionally, to prevent the shake of the camera caused by the movement of the mirror, it is necessary to enable the mirror prevail (the mirror lock function is not all cameras).

Note: When shooting with hands you need to smoothly press the descent! Approximately how the Olympic champions on shooting are pressed on the trigger. Only a finger on the descent is moving, the camera should remain stationary. In addition, I will give recommendations from the book by J. Wade "Technique of a landscape photo": "Stand up, relaxing: legs slightly apart, weight is evenly distributed on both legs, the camera in the eyes and elbows are tightly pressed to the body. Move the lens to sharpness, hold your breath and slowly Click on the shutter descending, concentrating only on the movement of the finger. Do not make a deep breath and do not delay your breath during the tip of sharpness and cropping. It will only worsen the case. Breathing normally and only briefly hold your breath when you press the shutter shutter. "

Supplement from Eugene Glushko (associated with the crossflower of rifle practices). Sometimes coil (slip) occurs due to hasty lowering the camera (rifle). To avoid this, the arrows are recommended after a shot, without changing the manufacturer, to keep the target for a few more seconds. Photographers are also recommended not to lower the chamber sharply, but a little to delay the view in the viewfinder. When it is not possible to use a tripod (or monopod), you can use various kinds of supports - parapet, back of the bench, leaning against the tree, sit down, supervised your hand in the knee, lie on the ground. In general, that the conditions and the plot are allowed.

2. The object of shooting is moving - the exposure is shorter
If the shooting object is moving, then a short shutter speed is needed to obtain a sharp snapshot. Usually, when shooting a fixed person, they put an excerpt not longer than 1/60 s, for a frisky child may not be enough and 1/200 p. And in order to "freeze" movement in sports, it is necessary to need 1/500 s or in short.

Fig. 2. Short excerpt 1/1250 C allowed to "freeze" flowing water:
Canon 300d, f \u003d 100 mm, ISO 100, f / 4, 1/1250

Sometimes to achieve an artistic effect of blur (effect effect), a long exposure is made (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3. Long excerpt is used to transmit the flow effect of the flow of machines:
Canon 300d, f \u003d 24 mm, ISO 100, F / 13, 2.5 s

Note: The lubricant of the fast moving object in the frame depends not only on exposure, but also on the type of shutter. Most modern digital mirror cameras use a curtain shutter. Despite the fact that it allows you to achieve very short excerpts (for example, for 400D minimum excerpts 1/4000 c) when shooting a fast moving object, its distortion occurs. The fact is that the curtains always move with the same speed regardless of exposure. Exposure is determined by the delay between the movements of the first and second curtain. With short excerpts (shorter 1/200 - 1/250 C) The second curtain starts the movement earlier than the first will reach the end - exposure occurs through the moving slot between both curtains. As a result, the moving object has time to shift in the frame from the start of exposure before its end, which can lead to distortion. Such distortion is weakly noticeable and the roles are not playing when ordinary photographing.

To reduce such a limitation of a curtain shutter in some digital chambers, an electronic shutter is used, which is not a separate device, but the principle of dosing the exposure to a digital matrix. Exposure is determined by the time between the matrix zeroing and the moment of reading the information from it. The use of electronic shutter allows you to achieve shorter excerpts (including synchronization shutters with flash) without the use of more expensive high-speed mechanical shutters. An example is the Nikon D70 / D70S / D50 chambers, in which the combined electron-mechanical shutter allows you to shoot in a flash synchronization mode (X-synchronization) at shutters to 1/500 s. For comparison: Canon 400D X-synchronization exposure is 1/200 s, Canon 30D - 1/250 C, Canon 1D Mark III - 1/300 C, Canon 1D - 1/500 s, Nikon D80 - 1 / 200 C, Nikon D3 - 1/250 C.

3. Invalid camera settings - Check the sharpness parameter (Sharpness)
Check in the camera settings, the sharpness parameter value (Sharpness). It should not be equal to the minimum value (Fig. 4)!

Fig. 4. Checking the sharpness parameter (Sharpness) on the Canon 400D:
In the default settings, some (average) level of sharpness is already specified.

For the number you always have to raise sharpness. The matrix is \u200b\u200binstalled an antialiatic filter, which specifically blurs the image slightly (see Dmitry Rudakova article "Sharpness ... Without a Tie"). With the minimum value of the Sharpness parameter, the picture will be very "soft" (Fig. 5). Usually this installation (zero for 400d) assumes that sharpness will increase more neatly with further image processing.

Sharpness: 0 Sharpness: 3 (default)

Fig. 5. The effect of sharpness parameter (Sharpness) when shooting in JPEG:

Canon 400D, EF-S 18-55, F \u003d 18 mm, F / 5.6, 1/400 C, ISO 100

Attention! Installing the sharpness affects only the JPEG issued by the camera (not RAW!). But at the same time, the "native" RAW converter reads the value of the Sharpness parameter from EXIF \u200b\u200band uses it as an initial installation (at least for Canon cameras).

Above it was about the so-called increase in sharpness when entering (Capture Sharpening). For numbers - this is converting from RAW (when shooting in JPEG, the camera itself does). In addition, sharpness has to be raised when output sharpening. This includes preparing an image for printing (for example, for inkjet printer It is necessary to "scold" stronger than for minilab), as well as a decrease in the image to publish on the network (output to the screen). Bruce Fraser, a famous digital processing specialist, highlights the third stage - selective sharpening (Creative Sharpening). For example, in the face portrait to focus on eyes, they are usually made a little sharp. These and other issues of increasing the sharpness during image processing will be left for a separate article.

Note. The filter in front of the matrix, which blocked a little, is often called an antialiatic or optical low-pass filter. This term is not used rather as an appointment, but by analogy. The filter itself serves to reduce color artifacts and moire in mosaic matrices (using the Bayer template) and more believable conversion of monochrome RAW-images to color.

It should be noted that cameras of various manufacturers the degree of influence of the "anti-alias" filter is different. For example, it is noticed that Nikon this filter is less blurring an image than Canon. From here, you can often hear "ringing sharpness of Nikon" or "Nikon D80 sharp than canon 30d", etc. This does not mean that Canon is less cut. Just to achieve the Nikon-bone level of sharpness on Canon-e will have to set a higher value of the Sharpness parameter. By the way, by Canon in front of the matrix of the whole three Low-Pass filter.

Some cameras at all there are no anti-aliatic filter, for example, at Leica M8. But for it you can pay. With a detailed consideration of the image with Leica M8 on some textures, as well as in the blur zone, rough appears, as if the photo was removed through some kind of mesh (and this is low ISO when the noises are minimal!). Some low-pass cameras filter "Turns off" is optionally, for example, Mamya ZD.

It is also worth mentioning the FOVEON three-layer matrix. Unlike a mosaic template, each pixel is "honest" and fixes all three components of colors (RGB). Theoretically, such a matrix gives the most sharp picture and provides the most accurate detail with a 100% image scale. To date, this technology is almost unchanged and is represented by the only SIGMA SD14 camera (resolution 2640x1760 - 4 megapixels).

4. Grip Mala
The flu is the depth of the sharply depicted space. Nonweight snapshots can be caused by a shallow depth of field. For example, for a whale lens at the long end f \u003d 55 mm at f / 5.6, the flu will be about 7 cm (with a distance of the shooting object of about 1 m). Accordingly, objects outside the ramp will be blurred.

This blur, as a rule, complains those who are used to photographing a digital recordplace, which has a large flu and all objects in the sharpness zone. Shallow depth of field is one of the advantages of cameras with a large matrix and is usually used for artistic purposes to impart a snapshot. Blurred Background Allows you to "separate" the object of shooting from the background (Fig. 6).

F / 4, 1/125 C, ISO 400 F / 5.6, 1/200 C, ISO 400

Fig. 6. Examples of using a shallow depth of field for "separation" of the object of shooting from the background:
Canon 300D, EF 100 / 2.8 Macro USM, Exposure Correction in the RAW Converter

Most will agree that it is convenient to use the central focus point: we bring the center of the viewfinder to the object, focusing (press the descent half), then combine the frame and take the picture (squeeze the descent completely). However, there is an underwater stone: the rotation of the chamber during cropping can lead to a loss of sharpness on the shooting object (Fig. 7).

focus on the central point - the component frame turning the camera -
Object in focus object goes beyond the hype

Fig. 7. Crop by the camera by turning can lead to a loss of sharpness at the shooting object.

There are several ways to avoid such an error:

Select the focus point manually (but it is not very convenient: to twist every time the wheel);
. Do not rotate the camera, and shift parallel to the plane of the shooting object;
. use manual focus (MF);
. Increase the flu with a diaphragm (but the rear-plan blur decreases).

The reason for the displacement of the fun can be the promotion of autofocus. For example, you were guided by the eyes, and the ears (back focus) or nose (front focus) turned out sharp. In this case, the camera or the lens will have to be given to the alignment. For how to check the lens on the back focus, see my article "How to test the lens before buying."

Note. In fact, autofocus sensor blocks are somewhat more than marked in the viewfinder. This can be illustrated simple example: Featuring on a white sheet, two lines are one thin, other thick (see Fig. 8, a). We have a chamber under an acute angle to the sheet, the axis of the lens is perpendicular to the lines. If, when you hover over a thin line, a more contrast, the thick line will be outside the label in the viewfinder (red frame), but within the sensor zone (designated by green), then the camera can focus on this contrast line (Fig. 8, b). Such a normal work of autofocus is often regarded as a back-focus. If only one contrasting part will remain in the autofocus sensor zone, then the "false" back focus does not occur (Fig. 8, B). That is why it is impossible to test the back-focus test photographing a ruler - the scale should be located at some distance from the target.

a) Simple target to check the work of autofocus

b) "Promach" autofocus: the sensor has shown on a more contrast detail

c) Exact hit: here thin line - the most contrasting item

Fig. 8. A snapshot fragment explaining the work of autofocus: redesigned red
Frame in the viewfinder, green - the actual size of the autofocus sensor

5. Objects soap - cover the diaphragm or change the lens
This one time when the resolution of the lens is missing to obtain a sharp image. The smaller the pixel in the matrix, the stronger the "soapiness" of optics is manifested. For example, 400d photo seensor size is 5.7 microns, and the 300D photo seensor is 7.4 microns (which is almost 1.7 times more along the area!). Accordingly, when shooting a "soap" lens (with the same conditions), the 300D picture will be better (more than 400d (Fig. 9).

Canon 300d, f \u003d 50 mm, EFR \u003d 80 mm, f / 8, shooting with hands

400d 300d.

Fig. 9. Chit lens EF-S 18-55 II strongly soaps on 400d and does not allow

enter the potential of a 10 megapixel matrix: the detail is not much higher,
than 6 megapixel 300d, and sometimes even worse (the texture is lost due to blur).
Shooting Parameters: F \u003d 18 mm, F / 3.5, 1/1000 C, ISO 100, RAW Conversion With Capture One

Note: In the process of the experiment, it was noted that 400D at the same excerpt was given a darker image than 300d. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the actual sensitivity of the matrix in 300d is higher than the displayed on the scoreboard (such, for example, is noticed at the cameras 20D and 5D - installing ISO. 100 actually corresponds to the sensitivity of ISO 125).

One of the options "overcome" the mice of the lens is to cover the diaphragm by 2-3 steps. In this case, aberrations are reduced, and the picture becomes sharper (Fig. 10).

F / 3.5 (maximum diaphragm) f / 8

Fig. 10. Blur, especially in the corners, and a snapshot decreases with the bottom of the diaphragm.
It becomes sharper: canon 400d, f \u003d 18 mm, ISO 100, converting from RAW using Capture One

Another option is to use a sharper lens. For example, if you put Macrick EF 100 2.8 Macro USM (one of the sharpest Canon lenses), then we obtain a noticeable increase in parts compared to 300D (Fig. 11).

400d, 1/200 with 300D, 1/250 C

Fig. 11. A sharp lens EF 100 2.8 Macro USM allows you to more fully use high
The resolution of the 400D matrix. Shooting Parameters: F / 8, ISO 100, Capture One

For more information about the testing of the lens and assess the sharpness, see my article "How to test the lens before purchasing. Checking a used lens."

6. Diffraction blur - too small diaphragm (hole)
On a fully open diaphragm, the lens is most susceptible to aberration (soaps stronger). Therefore, it is necessary to cover the diaphragm. And it would seem on F / 22, we must get the most sharp picture. However, this does not happen! In 400d, already starting with the F / 11 diaphragm, the sharpness begins to fall due to diffraction effects - the ideal "point" is blurred into the diffraction speck. The size of this stain becomes commensurate with the matrix pixel (5.7 microns). From here we make another conclusion: the smaller the pixel matrix theme is already a range of working diaphragms. For example, for 400D, the greatest sharpness of the whale lens in the wide-angle position is obtained on a diaphragm F / 5.6 - F / 8.

Fig. 12. The effect of the diaphragm on the sharpness: on the fully open diaphragm of the OLIT lens
By virtue of aberrations, in the range F / 5.6 - F / 8 shows the maximum sharpness, and starting with F / 11
The diffraction blurring begins

conclusions
1. The success of the sharp picture depends on the correct excerpt, the diaphragm and the skillful use of the depth of field.
2. Increasing the number of megapixels of modern digital cameras improves optics requirements and narrows the range of working diaphragms.

I recently faced a problem in my iPhone's work, which I had never even suspected about. After I took a few pictures, I found that none of them was preserved in the "Photowley". An even more unpleasant was the fact that I could not forward images or through iMessage, nor through the relevant messengers of third-party developers.

Having certificates on the Internet, I realized that it was not the only one who was confronted with this problem. It is quite typical, especially for users who use iOS. 8 . Nevertheless, there is a simple solution.

This guide will allow you to learn what to do if the photos are not saved in the film of the iPhone or iPad.

How to avoid the loss of pictures in the "Photoclete" oniPhone. oriPad.

Step 1: Restart your iPhone or iPad.

Step 2: Run the camera application on the home screen.

Step 3: Switch to "Photo" mode and take a picture.

Step 4: Tap the pictogram in the lower left corner to deploy the snapshot that you just did.

Step 6: Restart your iPhone again.

After restarting, the problem will be fixed, and all new pictures will be stored in the "Photoclete". Perhaps you will be lucky and you will find the pictures that you failed to save earlier.

It is strange that this problem still occurs, no update has appeared software. This flaw is present in iOS for several years, and even more so it is not clear why Apple has not yet corrected it.

Do not miss Apple news - subscribe to our Telegram channel, as well as on YouTube Channel.

Each of us came across this: watching the footage on the camera's LCD screen or in the graphic editor window, we discover that something is wrong with the photo. Then an unsuccessful composition, then incorrect exposure. Either the image is not enough, as I would like, and the color rendition is unnatural. Whatever it was, you can not unambiguously indicate that in the photo is wrong, but you will be firmly sure: something is wrong in it.

We have prepared a list of 55 most common causes of why your photos may seem unsuccessful, as well as our ideas and recommendations on how to solve these problems. Naturally, you do not suffer from all of them right away, but we are confident that at least one of them you faced.

We tried to cover the problems associated with exposure, composition, focus, lighting and photo processing.

If you do not complicate, leave in the comments to the article a message with which one you personally encountered.

The exposition of your photo is unsuccessful because ...

1. LCD display of your camera too light / dark

The rear LCD display of your mirror (or compact, or any other camera) can give you a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe exposure of the frame, but not only when it is configured too bright or dark. Before shooting, calibrate the level of its brightness in accordance with the degree of ambient lighting. This feature is available in the menu of your camera.

2. You have not checked the histogram

10. You use the wrong shooting mode

If your camera does not have blocking the selected shooting mode, you can accidentally change it, for example, removing the camera from the bag. That is, you will think that you are shooting a diaphragm in the priority mode, and in fact the manual mode will be selected, respectively, the aperture and excerpt settings that you specify can be completely unsuitable for shooting.

11. You use too long exposure

To control the exposure in your camera, you must follow the balance between the diaphragm, excerpt and the sensitivity of the ISO. Choosing an overly long shutter speed, you risk obtaining a lubricated image caused by the so-called "coach" (shakes of the camera) and \\ or the movement of the shooting object. To reduce excerpt, we open the diaphragm or increase.

The composition of your photo is unsuccessful because ...

1. Rear background too fierce

This moment is very easy to miss sight, especially if all your attention (and the lens) is chained to the shooting object, and not to the rear background. But before making a snapshot, once again look a look with a starring scene: will a snapshot look better without a tree branch / advertising agent trying to attract your attention / red car on the back background of your photo? Yes. Yes, definitely, he will be better!

2. You use too boring an angle of shooting

Stop shooting most photos from your eyes! Run on the ground (do not be afraid to get dirty) or climb above! Look at the familiar scene under a new angle and you will reveal it in a new, possibly unexpected light.

3. You rarely shoot in the vertical position of the camera

You must train the frame both when horizontal and the vertical location of the camera. The next time you are gathering to shoot the scene, which is usually removed, placing the camera horizontally, simply turn your camera to 90 degrees and contempt the frame again.

4. You have not allocated a shooting object

9. In the direction of the edges of the photo lighting decreases

If the edges of your photos are darker than the central part, use the peripheral illumination correction function (this feature is available in some camera models and, almost, in all graphic editors For photo processing) to correct the situation.

10. You do not use Blend

11. Your night photos are too dark

Ironically, night photos with ink black sky look not too impressive. Try to shoot when residual colors are present in the sky (for example, after sunset) or when the sky is highlighted with artificial light (for example, from lighting urban streets, etc.). And in the latter case, it is better to shoot at sufficient distance from the city.

Editing your photos did not give the desired result, because ...

1. You did not use the editing of the "Levels" tab

If your photos look flat and gray, check the histograms of levels. Drag the white and black sliders to the edges of the histogram to make the image more dynamic look.

2. You are overly fascinated by editing

Excessive editing, of course, the case of taste, but the apocalyptic color saturation, surrealistic HDR effects may eventually give the photo repellent. Keep track of the histogram throughout the editing time of the image: editing should emphasize the details and mood of the photo, and not distort them beyond recognition.

3. During editing, you have not increased enough

Do not attempt to select, cloning or any other editing tasks that require attention to detail, without proper image scaling. Of course, you can try to edit the photo without increasing it, but the chance of what you will be able to perform all manipulations with the desired result - quite small ...

4. You excessively increased image sharpness

Postpone an increase in the sharpness of the image at the last editing step. When the time comes, increase the scale of the photo up to 100% and gently increase the sharpness. At the same time, if you use the UnsharpMask tool, do not overdo it with the values \u200b\u200bof the RADIUS and Amount functions otherwise, instead of ringing sharpness, you will receive ugly glowing hacides around objects.

5. You have overdoing with noise reduction

Camera bad photographs? The reasons for this can be quite a lot, and they depend like the camera, its possible problems and from the usual "human factor". In this article we will try to understand the main reasons why the camera can be bad to photograph in a particular situation.

What is the camera badly photographs?

To begin with, it is necessary to clearly define the concept of a bad photographing chamber. As a rule, lovers are faced with the following problems when shooting:

The camera does not photograph the camera, giving a blurred image, "picture" with a lot of noise or incorrect color reproduction.
The camera takes off, but the image is not in focus, it turns out to be blurred.
The device does not turn on.
The camera display displays an error, shooting is not performed.
The device takes pictures as usual, but a sharp is not an object of shooting, but the front or background (found in mirror cameras).

So, the main types of faults of the camera exists not so much, and it is these "symptoms" that we will consider:

The first case, in 99 percent of cases, does not indicate a hardware or systemic malfunction, but on a crash in the camera settings. This may be a random transition to another shooting mode, reset the White balance setting, the overestimated sensitivity value (ISO). In this case, we recommend carefully learning the instructions to the camera and install need settings Or go to automatic shooting mode (it usually sets the best exposure parameters for a particular creation). If the settings are set correctly, you can try to reset all camera settings to factory values \u200b\u200b(such a function is in the menu of most digital cameras).
The defocused image when shooting can be associated with both a mechanical malfunction and with a violation of the settings. When such a feature appears, it should be immediately checked if the macrorement in the camera is not enabled or manual focus. Most often, in compact cameras, the activation of the macrores is made on a separate button and can easily occur by chance. It is possible to determine this and on the screen on the screen the macro-modes icon in the form of a stylized flower. You can also try to "play" with the settings of the focus zone, setting the maximum "wide" value of the coverage or, on the contrary, the point mode, then see if there are changes. If all operations are made, that is, the risk that the reason for the camera is poorly removing, is still a mechanical malfunction.

If the camera does not turn on, the reason for this often performs a mechanical malfunction. The cause of it can be the drop in the camera or moisture entering. Nevertheless, it is worth checking rechargeable battery Cameras (preferably insert a guaranteed operational battery) - Often it is precisely the failure of the battery can lead to the fact that the camera does not turn on.
The appearance of errors on the screen is often accompanied by various breakdowns. In the case of a mirror, a similar message often occurs when the shutter fails. Ate error does not disappear and there is no access to the camera menu, direct path - in service center. If the time error is not always manifested, you can try to reset the settings and replace the memory card, it is likely that the problems are related to its reading.
In mirror cameras, the main problem is the presence of so-called beck or frontfocus, that is, when the camera automatically focuses closer or further than the object being removed. It is possible to deal with this phenomenon by adjustment. It is recommended to do it in the service center, although in many forums there are instructions for self-adjusting some cameras. Also, such a phenomenon is often observed when using optics of third-party firms, for example, when using Sigma, Tokina lenses on Canon cameras and others.

Conclusions about what the camera does not photograph

As we see, the reasons for the camera malfunctions there is not so much. In this material, we did not consider problems arising from the memory card, namely they are most often. As a rule, they manifest themselves in partial record of personnel, errors while maintaining and other signs. Check out the easiest way, installing a new or guaranteed operational drive. The rest of the above signs of the camera malfunction and methods for their solution can be navigated in most cases.

When choosing a new phone, the buyer is always guided by a number of important criteria. One of them is the camera. With the help of the built-in camera, funny selfie are made and unforgettable leaves remain in memory. Thanks modern cameras In the smartphone, many even forgot how the usual camera looks like. Therefore, for many will be a big problem when the camera ceases to work in the phone without visible reasons. This will be discussed in our article.

There are several ways to eliminate the established problem. But first things first.
First of all, it is necessary to determine the nature of the breakdown. If the phone fell and broken the camera lens or the case of the device got into the water, then it will not work independently. You will have to contact the service center, as it will be necessary to replace some details.
If the gadget was not mechanically exposed and the problem is on the program level, everything can be corrected independently.

Possible causes of malfunction

The Android operating system is characterized by the flexibility of settings and the ability to work with internal files. This is an unconditional plus that allows you to configure your gadget according to user requirements. But sometimes this plus leads to faults. Among the most frequent causes of the chamber failure, you can allocate:

unsuccessful system update;
installation of a conflicting application;
installing informal firmware;
delete important files;
the appearance of viruses;
the system fails for a number of other reasons.

Troubleshooting

It is best to find a malfunction to start with the simplest actions that will not take a lot of time and effort.

Theoretically, these methods are quite enough to return the camera to the former performance. But there are difficult situations when even after full reset All the same camera does not work on the phone.

If the problem is programmed, then the device firmware will help with one hundred percent probability.

But there are several nuances and features:

If you have at all new phonewhich is still under warranty, in no case do not flash the phone yourself. Take it to the service center along with the warranty coupon.
For independent firmware There is a big risk to output the device. This process requires certain skills and knowledge.
Be sure to remember one rule - the firmware can be downloaded only from the official site. Otherwise, it will refuse not only the camera, but also the whole smartphone.

Diagnostics

To diagnose the status of the phone, you can use various applications.

One of them is the program Phone Doctor Plus. (Download).

With it, it is possible to check not only the camera, but also the state of other important elements of the smartphone.

After the application is launched, general information about the device will be displayed. So that they are relevant at the moment, you need to go to the second tab, where more than twenty tests are located, including the camera you need, GPS and much more. Each of the tests is performed separately, some ask the user to make a specific action, for example, shake up the phone or insert headphones. Upon successful completion, a green icon appears with a check mark - this means that the proven function works correctly. With the help of such simple actions, you can estimate the actual state of the camera.

As practice shows, there are no hopeless situations. If the camera does not work on the phone - this is not a reason for disorder. You can solve the problem by pressing multiple buttons. It is enough to take advantage of the tips from our article, spend a few minutes of personal time and further enjoy beautiful pictures.