PC modding do it yourself at home. Modding: History

Colored wires are beneficial to stand out on a common background and inside the space of the case, adding bright accents to it. This is a creative and inexpensive solution with which even a beginner modder will cope. You can purchase ready-made cables in contrast or monophonic color combinations in our online store, including RGB-backlit, outlining system customization to an even more advanced, futuristic level. For professionals, the necessary consumables, connectors, cable holders, connectors for creating a full, working connecting element are offered. A separate direction of modding is the braid of the wires - besides the aesthetic function, it serves as an additional protection, increasing the reliability of electronics. It becomes especially critical when working with liquid cooling systems, because water is a rather aggressive medium for processor, video card, motherboard.

Illumination as the main direction of modding

Using LED LED tape has become hardly the most popular way to give a computer more attractive and stylish appearance. With it, it can be focused on any details: place on the frame or blades of the fan, lay around the faces of the case or along the tank. Multicolored RGB LEDs have flexible settingsBlowing independently from each other, and synchronization with software gives even more ideas to create your own lighting modes.

Instead of accession

Many users are concerned about how their jobs look like. And if a person is not indifferent to computer glandthen it also worries and appearance His iron friend. I take a happy group of users whose housings have a transparent side window. Your own description of the case you can see here.

In this article, I will consider some interesting ways that helped me decorate the appearance of my workplace, directly a computer, and also I will tell you how I retained the beauty of the inner "world" of the computer case. Let's start with the workplace.

Part one. Workplace Or a place where I spend a third of my life.

Maybe, of course, and not a third of life I spend behind my computer table, but I think that on average no less, and maybe more (like all the avid computer;)). In this part, I will consider only one point - the wires. Connecting wires - an integral part of any computer.

In a primitive example, there is only a monitor, keyboard, mouse. As a result, the wires are quite a bit and the species they do not particularly spoil. But advanced to the advanced computer users of these devices. Add to this list: speakers, headphones, scanner, printer, joystick, cable to TV (or antenna cable for TV-TUNER "a), all sorts of USB cables for connecting external devices. We obtain a whole wiring kip that not only prevent the movement of the system unit. To another location, but also terribly spoil the type of workplace. This is how my workplace looks like.

(Place for work at the computer)

You do not need to look at the table :). Look at the table - beauty. There are no wires at all (i.e. it can be seen, but they are directly behind the housing). I used the design of my desk, and all the connecting wires glued as an ordinary tape to the back of the vertical part of the table.

(All wires to do not spoil the view are strictly behind the housing)

(On top of the wire hold on scotch)

For a bedside table, I placed a splitter that feeds the periphery, and hid the interfering long wires. It turns out such a picture - the wires from the housing rise up, stretch to the left to the bedside table (keeping at the scotch), and there are already going to where. Long wires hang right behind the bedside table. It is a pity that I did not photographs before putting the wires, but honestly I will say - nothing is beautiful. Kipa of these wires just spoils those nice impressions created by the case.

So, with the help of simple and easily accessible material (Scotch), you can get rid of the terrible painting - heaps of wires. Now go to the keyboard and the mouse.

Part two. Mini modding mouse and keyboard

Now I have a Mouse Genius Netscroll Superior Wireless, and before I used the A4 Tech WWW-11 mouse.

(Old good mice)

This mouse is about 4 years old. Until now, it works fine. At the same time, the mouse was very cool - 4 buttons (Software ransom - it is possible to assign absolutely any function of each button) and 2 scrolls (for a vertical and horizontal scrolling) in a compartment with a form at hand were just an atomic bomb for me and acquaintances. True, the price for those times (400 rubles) was the only barrier to purchase. Drinking and accumulating my happiness on my mouse there was no limit. Such a mouse was not anyone :). Even now, several friends tried to reclaim this mouse with me, but I do not give it to anyone, because it is not enough that the mouse is super, so I have been rejected it a little. It was a lyric retreat. Go to the case.

Having read the articles about modding mice, I really wanted to do something with my mouse. Put the fan - practical, but the design did not allow this to do. Carefully having studied the inner world of the mouse, I realized that the internal illumination would be very effectively at night due to small gaps between the buttons. No sooner said than done. Two over-bright LEDs were bought (green and blue). Measuring, where my mouse is +5 and the Earth, the LEDs soldered parallel so that they would shine right through the very gaps.

(Soldered LEDs)

The effect was chic - at night the mouse glows very nicely, which adds a certain attraction to the night meeting at the computer.

(Mouse in the MGL Night)

Then I purchased a multimedia keyboard from Sven. It collapsed immediately how the warranty ended. Very disappointment, the software was good. I decided to take a keyboard more expensive and noctable, the choice fell on Genius KB-21E Scroll. After buying the head immediately visited the idea - to highlight from the inside the left and upper "panels". But after opening the keyboard, it was revealed that the upper panel is an overlade and highlighting its capabilities (except to drill the keyboard housing). And the left panel was transparent, and the place was enough to install two LEDs. This time chose two blue. Similarly, the mouse soldered them to +5 and the earth, gathered, checked - it works.

(And now the keyboard in the middle of the night)

The effect is even stronger than from the mouse. At night, just so pulls to look at the keyboard :).
The workplace is decorated, at night sit at the computer nice. It is time to go directly to the heart of the computer - the case :).

Part of the third. A little about coolers

The side window at my case is transparent. This feature (as well as in this world) is positive and negative sides. Positive - you can admire the insides of the computer, the effect increases with the presence of a well-organized backlight. Negative - admire the insides will disgust, if the mountain is in the housing.

My body was supplied with a white-colored fan on the side wall, as well as blue neon backlight. Also, I am the happy owner of the Couple of Glacialtech Turbine 4500, who has two transparent fans (sorry without backlight). But no hope - there are labels of companies - manufacturers. I do not know how you, but I personally don't like this picture at all. The transparent fan must be transparent partially, but completely. Otherwise, Pornography is obtained.

(Compare: one fan has already lost stickers, and two others are not yet)

But this moment will easily replant - the stickers can be construed. For this, there is even a special "means for moving the stickers" (in the original a little different name, but the meaning is clear). Represents spray (by type of fresheners, means from mosquitoes :)).
Here is a mini-guide how to get rid of the stickers:

We ride the sticker itself and carefully score pieces

We take into the hands of the above remedy and the p host a little on a sticky surface

After 5-7 seconds, wipe some napkin (better x / b)

We repeat the paragraphs 2), 3) until the stickiness goes finally

With the fans, Glylia had to do with the fans, but the sticker of the crested cooler came down easily. She was on a metal basis, and Carlson Glasialia had paper stickers. I spent a couple of minutes we have absolutely transparent fans.

(Now the full effect of transparency)

Personally, I like it much more. Especially since the tipped fan now looks much more effectively and illuminates a little better (the light takes to the floor). With the coolers figured out, it's time to move to solving the resulting problem.

Part of the fourth. Fighting dust

Dust is the evil that spoils and the internal view of the computer and its components (for example, fans). In an opaque computer, everything is simple. Once in three or four months opened, I swasched, closed. But with transparent everything is much more difficult. Not even a large number of Dust is striking what to say about the mountains. And now I will imagine this situation. In my case, three fans work on blowing and three on blowing (plus the power supply fan for blowing), add processor cooler And we get in the end - wild air flow inside the case. This, of course, very well affects cooling. But you can not forget about the amount of dust, which will be in the housing after a while with such an airflow. And this dust will remain there if it does not remove it yourself. But as they say in one good saying - "Pure is not where they clean, and where they do not grow," it is better to take care of what dust does not get into the corps. For this you need only a filter. But this is only at first glance an elementary business. In fact, it is very difficult to figure out a good filter.

With the front fans it will be simple - the filter can be put in any color and from any material, because You still won't see it for the front panel. But with the side cooler it will be more difficult - the ABE filter from what you will not put, spoil the view. Therefore, to solve this problem, my good friend. After some discussions, the answer was found by himself. The fact is that a friend has a primitive and front, there is not even a place for the fan on the fan. He did this: he saw rectangular holes in the plugs for one CD-ROM and one drive and glued a small metal grid from the inside. Works for half an hour, and three hare kills immediately: the wicked air penetrates the body, dust does not miss, and the view of all 100% (very much reminds the automotive radiator grille).

I decided to buy myself the same lattice, but smaller. There was no such thing on the market, therefore borrowed a small piece from a friend.

I don't have scissors for metal, so I decided to sacrifice with simple scissors. But the scissors were extremely good: the grid was cutting confidently, though a bit of sharp edges were damaged, but nothing, beauty requires victims;) First of all, we will deal with the side fan. Measure the desired dimensions.

(Apply the fan and leave 3-4 mm from each edge)

Cut out the desired piece and the two opposite edges bent. Made cuts in four places, so that it would be convenient to bend the edges. It turns out such a square.

(Having bent the edges we get the square mesh square)

The last step of preparation of the filter remains - make holes for fastening. For this, I once again took advantage of the folding inventory "All in One". I was donated, by the way, my girlfriend on February 23 :) In the folded state, it looks like a folding knife. It has everything, pliers, 2 screwdrivers, a knife on a tree, a opener, and a few more retractable parts. The appointment of one such such for me was a mystery until it took a hole where this item was useful to me :).

(With my device, the lattice acquired by holes)

Now we wear a side fan filter and screw to the regular place

(Fan with grille on site)

And now we look at the result.

(Fan included)

I do not know how you, but for me very cool. Still, there are something fascinating in combination of shallow mesh with a silver case and backlight. Go to the front fans. I have them arrange horizontally at the bottom of the case. Measure the desired piece of the grid and cut out. I needed a rectangle with dimensions of 18x10 cm.

(Slice is suitable just right)

Again make holes for fastening. I decided to try in advance whether the screws include these holes. We try on the grid and screw to the desired place. Although his view and beautiful, but I will see it soon, because The front panel will hide him from the audience. But there is always the opportunity to admire the lateral fan filter. Beauty, and only. Although no, also benefits - dust will now not penetrate the body, at least a large dust. As for the shallow, it is not so noticeable, and always get out of the housing using exhaust fans. After such work it's time to go to the conclusions.

Conclusion and conclusions

In the previous parts, I talked about how to improve the appearance of the workplace, keyboard and mouse, as well as the inner decoration of the case. With minimal time and money costs, I achieved very important results:

First, the huge number of wires does not spoil the look of my workplace.

Secondly, the mini-modding of the keyboard and mouse creates some pleasant atmosphere at a night meeting at the computer.

Thirdly, I got rid of dust inside the case, and transparent fans and a filter from the grid attached a fascinating type of the case.

As a result, boasting your workplace and the computer itself is not ashamed even to avid computer and modes.

Lutovinov Maxim (Aka. Kok)
26 /05.2005

Greetings! Today I will have a rather unusual article for you, but I hope for many of my readers she will interest. This post is recommended for reading, first of all, "computer maniacs" who love to reconnect over their PCs in order to improve its appearance and functionality. So, below you will get acquainted with the project called "Black and White" - this is modding the system unit with their own hands. This miracle created my friend Anatoly Vasilenko and asked me to publish this review on my blog that I would be happy and doing. Below, its text without edit and change.

Hello everybody! I recently acquired new computer And everything is cool, he satisfied me, everything was like on top, but still something lacked ... After a long rage, I came to the conclusion that I was not satisfied with his appearance! :)) Corpus Cooler Master K280.. The design will go, but only at first, I decided, and after a couple of days I took up his modernization ... And then the body looked so much cheaply, not seriously, boring and as an ordinary "stamping".

And so that the body had a less neat and balanced appearance, I decided to fulfill the whole thing in black and white colors. I miss the design stage and immediately start to the practical part!

Here is a boring, default look has a systemist now:

We change the factory front panel

Unfortunately, not all photos that I did in the process of work were preserved, and did not always imagine to take off some stages.

In a nutshell: used for the front panel 2 sheet of transparent org glasswhich were bought in the process of improper drilling, which led them to a rough, unsuitable look ... But fools, as they say, learn from their own mistakes and the panel came to cut "from scratch", but already using sheet ghetynakfrom. Lord, why didn't I think about him right away? .. \u003d) Unlike Org-glass, Getinax is much more refractory, durable and not so brittle!

Drilling a sheet here's a drill, the seller called him: "Ballerinka")), using sheet getinaks 5 mm thick:

Drill the type of crown, only crowns are fixed sizes, and the diameter of this drill can be adjusted from 30 to 125 mm! Very profitable acquisition in my opinion.

The drill perfectly coped with his task, I was pleasantly surprised by the result:

Further clean and degrease the inner side of the panelFor gluing fasteners of the coolers (sticking did not fall out, but the fastener will be visible at the stage of painting), well, and, accordingly, glue with flexible glue: TYTAN PROFESSIONAL CLASSIC FIX. Next Painting panels black matte enamel newton. Applied 5-6 layers for funny confidence:

In the photo you can see "lock" to fix the panel in the case frame:

While I painted came the long-awaited package with braid MDPC-X. Guess what colors? Right! Black (30 m) and white (10 m):

Enamel dried, you can install the valves. Solder them to 12 Volt Molek, We are tightening the wires with black braid, otherwise we do not need incomprehensible multicolored wiring in the case:

The factory-quality panel came out, and the body looks pretty good:

Take a braid

With the front panel finished! But we have a nearly 30m black braid, and the white is not at all touched! It's time to let them in the case ... So, a new power supply arrived AERO COOL 650 W, disassemble it and begin the braid of each wire separately:

One day I was enough to cover only 24 Pin cable !! The occupation is incredibly routine, but at the beginning interesting:

The peculiarity of this power supply is that the power cables of video cards are doubled, so it was necessary to split them so that in one braid there was only one wire, if there is 2 or more, the braid will be thicker against the rest of the rest, and we do not need it:

Total I had enough patience to cover only those wires that I will use, and unused to blow a motherboard from the eye from the eye:

Trial launch. I was convinced that we did not confuse anything and that all the nodes work:

In order to avoid unnecessary bends 24 PIN cable to us it is necessary to prolong down the factory hole in the housing Under this cable, and cut down the rubber:

Strip the remaining minor wiring into the braid:

We mount a new braided power supply and customize cables in its place:

(Click on the picture to enlarge)

We look at what happened:

Enjoyed, rested, now go to the acrylic window!

Installing an acrylic window

We go to the building material store and buy everything you need:

• transparent acrylic sheet - 300x300mm,
• molding ribbon - 1 meter,
• cutting engraver
• lED tape
• dimmer to adjust the backlight.

Plisted cover housing paper scotchThis will protect the paint from scratches and any damage during cutting:

Turn on engraver and cut out the cutting circle our window. And do not forget to give Himself to relax! In the meantime, Engraver rests, we cut acryl in parallel. We carry out a finishing cutting of the cut, spin on the bends and remove the unnecessary protective tape. Scotch was not fully cleaned, but not trouble, if there is a wet cloth:

As we can see, it turned out very neatly, without scratches and irregularities:

Remove the protective layer on the one hand acrylic and glue it from the inside of the wall of the case and leave all this "case" as you can dry. Having leaving the night, glue drying and voila - we have a decent type of acrylic window:

Installing LED backlight

So we have: FEMALE 4PIN, Molex-Male 4Pin - Male 4Pin (needed to connect to power supply), dimmer with a remote control, a piece of white lED ribbon And dumb wires in order to connect all this.

We sleep all the elements in a bunch and get something like a cord with backlight. Breeping "Cord with backlight" to the wall and connect the meals:

New metal legs

One good friend working at one plant, I drew me new legs from a solid rod stainless steel. The visible part of the leg was polished, and on the bottom pasted the layer of rubber, you know why. Mix on the screws sweaty.

Good day! I wanted to tell you a little about a personal computer, or rather about my passion, modding.

Currently, the computer is used in all sectors such as production, trade, health, education and many others. If the first computers could afford solid organizations and wealthy people, now this miracle of technology can be seen in each apartment. It is impossible to present a person without a PC, but many specialists working on a computer do not even represent that is in the system unit.

I will write for those who still do not know or just begins to know computer technique, summary. Personal computer consists of:

1. System Block (Computer Heart or Brain)
2. Monitor (eyes)
3. Keyboard I. computer mouse (hands)
4. Headphones and columns (ears)
5. And many more peripheral equipment.

The PC system unit is responsible for the full vitality of the entire computer. It has main components:

1. Motherboard (platform for other components)
2. Cooler processor (main computing center)
3. Video card (video processing board)
4. RAM
5. Power supply (Socular power unit)
6. The housing with fans (hangar in which is located above these components)
7. Optical drive (media installation)

The PC body is usually a non-weld iron rectangular box mostly white or black. The main functions of the hull, the protection of components from external influences, mechanical damage, Maintain the temperature regime by ventilation. Many suits the appearance of the case, the main thing that everything worked. But there is a category of people who wish to change system unit, make it more beautiful, enter into the interior of the desktop like something unusual and original. So such a direction was born as modding.

Modding applies to the change in configuration and appearance personal computerMore than the system case. Most often, enthusiasts are engaged in modernizing, bringing their PC to perfection. If you make an analytical comparison, then the car can be called a similar occupation.

You will be interested: ""

Manufacturers of buildings (giants of their business) try to highlight some of their own rules, giving them all sorts of forms, decorating with all sorts of inserts, transparent windows in the side walls, filling with neon light.

But there are still modding studios where you can order a hundred percent exclusive computer case. Which will not only one of its kind, but also fully comply with your requirements. Such corps are usually much more expensive than factory. Since made to order.

But I want to tell you that you can from the usual factory case, if you turn on the imagination and attach hands. Create a work of art in the world of moding.

On this I finish scientific theory and turn to practice, my practice.

I didn't become interested in modding, my first systemist stood under the table with a black box. Accidentally having heard about such art, I climbed on the Internet and was simply admired seen. A little reflection armed with a grinder saw a window in the side wall, covered with the plexiglass and tightly sharply. Then bought a vinyl film and pasted an intricate ornament. In addition to everything sticked brand stickers. And here I got a simple, a little rude, but still a rejoicing eye modding.

After a while my PC passed a full upgrade. The new iron was placed in the SilverStone case, the case is simply super and refinement did not require. But the thoughts do not give the hands of rest, it seems so they say. And I went on another line, water cooling. I will not paint all the delights of the water, you can find a lot of information on the Internet. But for myself I decided to promote this direction. I will say right away, pleasure is expensive, and therefore some components I acquired ex-in use. The first water cooling system was modular. Separately for the processor (Corsair) and for video cards (THERMALTAKE). ThermalTake module is three in one: radiator, pump and capacity. And all this is compactly located on the frame, which must be installed in two compartments 5.25. Since thermaltake is designed to cool one processor (central or graphic), and I had SLI, for efficient cooling of the liquid, I had to buy a second radiator. The SilverStone case is not designed for water cooling, so I had to apply the smelter to place all components. Tubes have decorated under one style, and here is ready. It turned out original, but still not perfect.

When funds appeared, water cooling modules were changed to individual components. In this regard, the inner decoration of the systemist, heavily transformed.

But in my hands hit the system unit with an acrylic case and my imagination played with a new force.

The unspoken wires in an absolutely transparent body looked terribly, so I placed them in a water cooling tube and added neon backlight. It became much better.

But on this I did not stop. After thinking and attracting what, he decided to transfer the motherboard with a water from Silverstone to acrylic. The picture was not quite rosy. In the first time, the limited space did not allow to place all the elements of water cooling in the housing (the radiator W) and the large amount of wires spilled the total gamut. At the beginning, in the upper cover of the body, the holes for the shlands and the passage of the air flow from the housing through the radiator were cut. Three 120 fans with blue illumination, color wires were installed on the radiator, and the optical drive was wrapped in black tape.

120 cotton BP were taken, as two vidyuhi require more power blocks. Improved by replacing the braid of all wires.

If someone of you decides to intertwine BP warning. You need to purchase new terminals, possibly connectors, braid. Special tool for seizure terminals from connector, forceps for crimping, thermal insulating tubes. And the most important thing is to gain patience and put the goal to finish to end the intention.

Well, the BP is completed, you can collect everything else. Due to the limited space in the housing I had to pursar a little. But I was satisfied with the result.

The decision to coherent the case is accepted. The question arises: how?

I liked the idea of \u200b\u200bthe stove, because in our time the stoves are quite small. It was decided to form a rust.

So, the old stove. How should she look like? Door with casing, extractor, old loops, etc. Ideas arose one after another. But there is one big "but". Window, tell me which window can be in the old stove? Is that from the explosion.

Most of the improvements occurred during the implementation, so I will describe them along the way.

Note: Mod was first, and we got rushed for its implementation, instead of trying to first draw and calculate. For what and paid. I had to solve problems as they occur. So this case has been created, from the problem to the problem.

Search for materials. First metamorphosis

It all started with the search for the hull, how long, briefly, the case was found and delivered at the destination.

That's what he was. White highlighted a plot that will be ruthlessly cut off in the future. Black highlighted protruding parts of the housing, which will also be deleted. And then we faced the first problem. Window…

We understood that it was impossible to leave the side wall without ventilation, but I did not work out to be cut. The solution was found: we just changed the walls in some places. Now we had a wall with which you can do anything. But what to do with the grid, why is it on the other side? One of the options assumed to place the LED behind the grid, but later we decided to simply cut this piece (marked on the black picture) and put the latch. But how to fix it? Glue? Welding? Or maybe rivets? That's exactly how rivets and became part of this fashion.

After the Latca, we decided to cry and the hull itself. To do this, it was necessary to drill holes. Make it did not work. The basic drills were not the diameter, and the acquired drill walked strongly and, in general, behaved "badly", therefore drilled drills (the diameter of large rivets is 4.8 mm, small - 3.2 mm).

On the left side of the sidewalls were drawn, and then the hole was cut out (after which its edges were bent) and a hole for ventilation. Later it was closed with a standard grill painted black.

Rivets were set by the usual river who can be found in any construction store.

And so new problem - The door stopped closing. To eliminate this lack, it was necessary to shorten the rivets with the help of a drenel. It turned out about the following.

On the right, the usual riveting, on the left - shortened.

Well, one sidewall and ready (the grill is also on rivets)

Note: In some cases, in particular in our, it may be necessary to make rivets with a hole. I can not report to universal relief that you don't have to drill. Everything is very simple: after "shorting" rivets, it is enough to push her core "inside".

The second side is prepared for installing loops, all unnecessary parts are removed from the front panel.

Then followed clock wandering over a large store building materials in search of suitable loops, plex and metal.

Note: Plex and aluminum, as picked up, sell 1x2 m sheets. Therefore, it is better to clarify and consider it in advance whether you can cut it and how you will behave. In our case, the Plex had to cut in the store 40 minutes to cut with a hacksaw in the metal.) With aluminum, they did easier - lay down several times.

When finally all the details were purchased, we realized the need for preliminary drawing. Therefore, the front panel first appeared on Watman.

Facial panel

Why did I allocate it in a separate section? Because it is for us - a separate mod. It took the same time for its development as the rest of the body.

When creating the front panel, we proceeded from what we have:

• Top for CD drive. She was decided to turn the furnace to the damper and put on the loop.
• Centre. There, as a rule, there are indicators and switches. We decided not to change anything, only replace the work indicator hard disk On the voltmeter, which in the general concept must be a temperature sensor. It was also decided to replace POWER on the toggle switch without fixing, and RESET is on the button.

For buttons made a special lining.

The first toggle switch was more rude, they refused it, since it required considerable efforts. And as a result, it would have to strengthen the front panel.

Note: I will not tell about the HDD indicator, there is a separate article on this topic. But this is what the complications caused, so this is the fact that there were quite a few contacts on the toggle switch, and there were no schemes. And here as we did, remembering the school lessons of physics: collected a chain of a bed, batteries from a flashlight and a voltmeter. So we found a couple of contacts we need.

• Bottom part. We went by the model. In the housings, the bottom is often used to accommodate a cooler or just for ventilation. In the furnaces for this, a special door is also provided. We made it, cutting into two parts (one should be a little more different, for bend) the usual exhaust damper.

The upper part be fed from the cut side.

The retainer is made of two aluminum strips and "sticks out" to the flap and the case. Thus, the handle can rotate.

Here we have parts, but there is no front panel. The choice is small. We remove the measurements and cut out the lining and the upper door (the last bent around the perimeter), we clean everything.

Note: Cutting parts from a solid metal sheet Personal business. But we did it like this: you first need to draw the item on dense paper or cardboard, cut, around the perimeter to smoke with painting tape, select the cut line with a pencil and proceed to the cutting process.

After all the above operations, we did the following (hereinafter just drilling holes for rivets, weighed. All - the case is ready for painting).

Painting

So painting. It began with the search for a way to paint under rzavchin. We are known two. The first is to apply several layers of different colors with their subsequent "rubbing" (the method is very expensive). The second, namely, we chose it, I'll describe now.

Selection of paints

Painful topic. We just went out into the street, found the first rusty piece of iron and 20 minutes to do it, trying to determine the colors. Frankly: it turned out not immediately, but the main desire.

Outdoor painting

Step first - background.

Note: On the example, there is a piece of plex (from the back of it orange, sorry, there was nothing more to paint).

The first thing to be done is to apply a texture gel. We went over several options. And in general, this is a matter of taste.

But we apply it is not just like that, but pre-mixing with paint, in our case - with brown. Ferrario Apa Color "16" BURNT SIENNA).

Note: As the basis, you can also use a black metallic (we have Ferrario Apa Color "46" Wrougt Iron Gray). The end result does not change from this.

Note: If you first apply just a gel, give it to dry and after that, in places to wear out the sandpaper, you can achieve an interesting effect.

Our brown was very light, so we added some black (Louvre).

Note: Add black need very carefully, plus-minus a few drops and shade changes greatly. If you move, you can easily get a lot of black.

Now we take foam rubber, "Maca" him in paint ...

... and cutting the surface with the surface.

It is desirable to apply several layers thus. (The paint applied in this way will dry quickly, but you can speed up this process with a hairdryer.)

The next step. We apply the color to remind dim the redhead (we have Ferrario APA Color "15" Raw Sienna)

In order to get not large stains, but a small scatter, you need to put on the "working" surface, "McClock" foam rubbed several times about something solid. After that, you need to apply another 3 to 5-6 different shades. It all depends on what rust you want to get. More dark tones and you get the cast iron, more red - and now you have copper. If you have the opportunity, it is better to purchase all the necessary shades if not - you can mix different paints, only you need to mix so much to have enough for the entire surface. Re-mix in the same proportions is very difficult.

After applying all the layers, sliding the surface and cover it with varnish.

Note: A little about varnish, or do not repeat our mistakes. Glossy varnish greatly glitter. Matte - what is needed. Paint a few hours after applying (if the layer is enough "thick" can pass to 10-11 hours) changes color. Varnish (and especially glossy) refreshes it (the effect of wet stones). Therefore, consider this fact when painting.

We got the desired color about the 8th time. Here our "greenness" said. But ultimately the result satisfied us:

Inner painting

There were a lot of ideas: from a simple monophonic painting, to a gradient, with the calculation of different degree of reflection of light. But we stopped on this:

To obtain such an effect, it is necessary: \u200b\u200bred (poisonous) paint (we have Ferrario APA COLOR "05" Vermilion) and a special spray.

You need to apply from 2 to 4 layers of paint to the surface. The paint should not dry hard, and the last layer should be completely fresh. The layers need to be applied carefully - the cross will, otherwise, in the end, something terrible may turn out (too believe me, I know). After applying the surface you need to handle the spread (we have - Ferrario Effetti Decorativi 304 Crackle Nero)