Computer programs for building patterns

1. Nanocad (Nanocad)

In this program, I make drawings, which then make out in the pictures for articles on design and modeling. The program is quite complex, but if there is a desire, it is quite realistic to master it.

Nanokad is a program from the SAD family (automated design system) of programs. This is a program for designers. Her basic version free. And this version is enough for me to build patterns and simulate. In order to start working in it, you need to register on the site of the developer Nanocad.ru, download the program and get serial number. Also on the official site you will find many video lessons on working with the program.

All references to the described resources are not active. Just copy and paste into the search string.

The minus of this program is that every new pattern for each new figure should be built again. There is no possibility to enter and maintain their formulas in the construction process. And therefore, every new pattern we build both on paper, calculating each segment, every point.

The main convenience of the program is that we can easily propagate our drawing and further simulate the pattern right in the program. And otherwise the same principle of operation, as with a pencil, ruler and calculator. And you need to learn how to own the program before it starts saving time.

Similar programs: AutoCAD (Autocadus), Compass-3D. This is also programs for designer engineers.

2. Valentina (Valentine)

The second program in which I work for and for which it is very grateful to its developers is Valentina. It is also free. But unlike nanokad, Valentine has a wonderful opportunity to create parametric patterns (patterns). We simply change the measurements and additions and get the pattern to another individual size. At the same time, we no longer touch the drawing. The program is automatically rebuilt as a magic.

How it works? The fact is that the drawing is built on the basis of formulas, as well as table-calculators that are very popular with my needlewomen. We introduce measurements and additions, and the nameplate itself makes the calculation of the pattern. A similar principle of work and Valentina program. Time consuming pattern construction. But pleases what it needs to be built (enter into the program) just once.

Pay attention to this not complicated and intuitive program. She really simplifies the work on the creation of patterns and saves time. After acquaintance with Valentina, I stopped drawing manually just as I stopped to wash in a basin after purchasing a washing machine - automatic)).

Today it is the most promising program, of all I know. A team of developers works above its improvement. And their plans for the development of the program are grandiose. Therefore, it is worth studying it now.

You can download the installers of the program on the official website of the https://valentinaproject.bitbucket.io program

3. Redcafe

Redcafe is next programI want to pay your special attention to. It is both in charge and in free version. Free version more than enough for lovers and for professionals. This program is especially interested in novice sewing lovers. In this program, you can not build a drawing at all. It is pre-installed the basic patterns that can be edited and simulated. In addition, we can upload the databases, which are created by professionals and sewing lovers. In particular, the databases from the Burda magazines. Otherwise, these bases are called addons.

After installing these databases, we can open in the program any pattern from the proposed log issues. And not only open, but also print.

In this program, you can create your own databases, their own patterns (models) for any design method. And this is done using the script editor. As specifically, I have not figured out, but I wondered such a goal.

You can download the program on the official website of the Redcafestore.com program. To do this, click on the "Download" button in the upper right corner. And be sure to register. You can open the program on the computer by entering a login and password that you have chosen when registering on the site. Since this program is directly related to the official website, it will work in it only when connecting to the Internet. The patterns edited by us are saved in our personal account. And printed too through personal Area. Previously, print patterns could be free, now for a small fee.

4. Program "Circle"

Simple and understandable program for automatic construction of products. We choose the foundation we need from the proposed. We introduce your measurements and additions and the program instantly gives us a finished pattern.

The developer offers the foundations of four female shoulder products - dresses, jacket, demi-season and winter coat. Each basis in two versions - direct or fitted silhouette. In addition, there are five options for collars and four sleeveless options to these basics. From the waist for women there is a skirt, skirt-pants, pants and jeans. For men, trousers are offered classic, with a low belt and volumetric form.

This program builds patterns only according to the method developed by the designer of Pavlova Nina Iosifovna. We will not be able to simulate in this program. We simply print the pattern, glue the sheets and only then we can simulate "manually" on the finished patterns.

The program "Circle" is perfect for those who do not want to bother with formulas, the calculation and construction of the patterns. But you must, of course, first check on the probe, as the product will fall on the figure.

The program is paid. It costs $ 40. And you can buy it on the website of the developer and the author of the technique - Dmitriy-prog.ru/ru/main_rus.html. There is also a free option. But he is very, very trimmed. Build in the free version of the program we will be able to any of the basics, but print - only the skirt. But by opening and having worked for a couple of minutes in a free version, it is immediately clear how clear and simple program. And light in terms of the fact that it is not even needed to be installed on the computer. You can store and run from a flash drive or disk.

5. OptiTex 11.

Highly interesting program. It's just a combine. In it, as well as in the Valentine program, you can create parametric patterns. We initially create a pattern by any method of design. That is, we create an algorithm for building patterns, and the program writes it. It records our actions and formulas, with the help of which, we build a pattern. And subsequently, we simply enter other variables (measurements, additives, etc.) for this algorithm, and the program automatically gives us the pattern to another size.

But unlike the "Valentines" in the Optitex program there is a unique opportunity to simulate and try on the finished pattern to the virtual 3D mannequin. We can look at this mannequin on any side. It can be both standard typical sizes and individual. The parameters of the mannequin we will specify themselves. The program makes the analysis of the fitting of the product on the figure and, if necessary, will propose to make changes to the pattern. We can adjust the pattern on the figure even taking into account the properties of the fabric of the future product.

The program does not limit our fantasy and gives to show design abilities: pick up the color of the fabric, texture, finishing lines and finishing elements to the model being developed. Moreover, we can draw any adjacent product right on the mannequin and get the exact pattern of this product. Just fantastic! It is also possible to wear several products at a mannequin at once and see how harmonious they are combined and interact with each other on the figure.

The program allows you to make a gradation of parts, i.e. reproduction in size and growth. And after creating the pattern, in the layout mode, we can place patterns manually or the program in automatic mode will select the optimal layout option on the tissue segment. The program is quite complicated. But if desired, it can be mastering it.

Information about the cost of the program and how and where you can buy it did not find. The official website offers to enter your data for information about the program on this page - OptiTex.com/pricing. My request was answered that the program costs from several thousand euros. On the Internet you can find a not licensed, Russified copy of the program. I know that many are installed and use it. Personally, I did not manage to fully install and run this program on my computer. Have you tried?

Similar programs:

Julivi (Julii) - excellent programBut very expensive. Consists of several modules that can be connected at will or as needed. The most interesting module - the 3D modeling module is available only online and only for €, unfortunately.

CLO 3D - only for modeling programs exported from CAD programs.

6. Leko (LEKO)

The Leko program also participated in my survey and a few percent of the needlewoman enjoyed it. I also seemed very uncomfortable. Very much need to be done manually.

The program has pre-installed clothing models. We can enter your variables (measurements) and choose a model. The pattern will restart under the features of our (or our customer) of the physique.
The program provides an algorithm for building a model. That is, we not only can take advantage of "built-in" models, but also create their own. The algorithm seemed difficult to me. Very little automation in this program. The elements of the algorithm must be remembered similarly to the programming language and print (it is to print, rather than enter) the values \u200b\u200bmanually, as in a text editor.

The functionality of the program makes it possible to make gradation patterns - reproduction in size and growth. As in some previous programs, it is possible to make the optimal layout of parts on the canvas.

The program does not require installation on a computer. I have long been looking for the official website of the program, but I did not find it. And so I do not give links to the resource with installation files programs. And I can not say paid program or free.

7. Graft (CAD GRAFIS)

Interesting program. It has the ability to automatically build clothes from fabric and knitwear, hats - using the built-in bases. Along with this, you can design and maintain basic structures according to any design methods: Cotton, Zotchal, "M. Muller and Son, etc. You can make changes, simulate and multiply the items using gradation tools, add to the seams. You can use two layout options: automatic and manual. The program even allows digitizing ready-made paper patterns.

The format of the drawings Graphis is compatible with all modern CAD programs.
The program is paid. Open information About her value is not. In order to get it, you need to send an application for free pilot introduction of CAD Grafts on the Cadrus.ru developer website.

The success of any sewing production depends on the speed of orders, as well as the ability to minimize the cost of raw materials. Modern computer techologies Make reality the fastest development of models and the most complete systems for analyzing their quality.
In many enterprises, creating a clothing model still remains a rather laborious and long-term process. It will take several times to sew samples of the product to see all the shortcomings of the design, find the harmonious lines of the membership, the proportions of the leaf lengths, the sleeves, the entire products in general, to work out the color solution and the use of various articles of material and accessories.

Saprlegprom adapted under the specifics of the sewing production Module "3D-modeling" - the development of our South Korean partners. We included 3D visualization into the JULIVI complex.

For the convenience of our users now we present new service – online 3D modeling. You can without buying a 3D program, without teaching your specialists to work in it, get the result you need.

We offer to use the 3D mannequin remotely. All you need is to send us the model that you want to put on a mannequin, and its technical drawing, as well as short description taking into account the peculiarities of technological processing of some nodes (what can affect appearance worn model). After a short period of time (half an hour, hour) you will receive a set of images close to the quality of the photo. You can send a ready-made result to your customers or partners for consideration and prior discussion of the model you developed. In addition, our designer having great experience Work, can analyze the quality of your lecturers and maybe you can tell you something.

Cost online 3D modeling – 20 Euro at one o'clock.

On issues of this type of service, please contact phone numbers and email. Addresses specified in our contacts.

The program allows you to significantly increase the flexibility and efficiency of the experimental workshop. This program is based on the use of a three-dimensional mannequin. Designer of clothes With this program can work out its ideas on the general design of the model: Color solutions, the use of various articles of materials, of which it plans to embody a new product, selection of silhouette lines. Designer Using the 3D-modeling program allows you to get rid of the test stitching and check the correctness of the designed structure, because the dressing of the model on the mannequin in the program shows with a rather high degree of realism, as it will look like in a finished form. A similar degree of realism is created due to the fact that such important details are taken into account as:
- Mechanical and physical properties of fabric,
- the interaction of tissue with a mannequin,
- Visual properties of material.

With the help of the 3D-modeling program, you can not only get a three-dimensional image, but also see whether your plans come correctly using such viewing modes as:
- visual assessment of the product,
- selection of drawing,
- product balance assessment,
- view allowances for freedom of improving the product,
- Ability to see the distribution of stresses in the tissue.

The product dresses on a mannequin in the same way as this happens in reality: the patterns are stitching in the seam program, the crosslinking process sets the constructor itself. For this, the patterns are used, pre-built in the JULIVI system or transferred to our program from other systems using the "Converter" program.

First stage: Dressing on the mannequin. Modes that can be used by you for this: orientation of patterns (with its help you can distinguish the right sleeve from the left or right shelf from the left), the shrinkage mode or stretching patterns, the formation of assemblies, folds.
The second stage is the directly of the Dressing Process itself, which is launched using the appropriate command. At this stage, the program will recalculate data on the patterns of the model, and the model is depicted in the amount. After finishing this process The final result is displayed on the screen, dressed on the mannequin. In addition, the program allows you to accurately create the embodiment of decorative patterns in the product (collar, lapels, ruffles, etc.).

After dressing the product, the designer or designer may pick up various color solutions or impose an image of a certain article in the fabric, the samples of which were previously scanned, and the combination mode of the pattern with the pattern will help set the design of the picture on the items of the product.

Program "3D modeling" Includes unique design viewing modes. With their help, you can view the product in detail and produce: assess the balance of the structure, that is, the correct location of the vertical side seams and the shoulder seam relative to the human body;

Measure the distance between the product and the human body (for checking and clarifying the values \u200b\u200bof allowances for free-fitting in the product);
It is possible to determine whether the pressure is on a person (in those places where this pressure is, it is shown by the program in the form of red spots);

Using the pressure display mode, it is possible to determine how freely and comfortably a person will feel in this product. This information is similar to that which can be obtained as a result of fittings, but is more displaced.
In addition, the program allows you to display an additional any other product and look at the complex, as sitting, such as a suit or several separate products, dressed in one another.

After dressing the product on a mannequin, the designer gets the ability to produce directly on it the following types of modeling:

1. Apply additional lines. The most striking examples of the use of this feature are situations in which an additional decorative element must be applied on the product (for example, pocket), to make any insert into the product. The principle of action of this feature is that you apply additional lines on the pattern, and the program automatically transfers these lines to the image of the model, dressed on the mannequin. And moving the line on the gauges, you simultaneously see their movement in 3D mode and you can adjust the location of the lines or their shape. Until now, this process was carried out only with fitting and occupied quite a long time. Using the 3D-modeling program you immediately apply the lines as you need, thus saving your time.

2. Change of silhouette. This feature will help you change (expand, narrow) the silhouette of the product and its separate parts. However, it should be noted that this function is applicable only in certain ranges (that is, you will not be able to make wide pants from shorts from shorts), since it is constructively entails the creation of a non-correct design. But you can see any idea on the mannequin, and in the future to embody it in Pekalch. It gives you the opportunity to freely work out your ideas and experiment.

3. Adjustment of the length of the product or its individual elements. Working with flat patterns, it is very difficult to see the exact proportional pattern ratios. But in the program "3D-simulation" you can see all the product in general on the figure, and, accordingly, correctly find its proportional lines relative to the figure and idea of \u200b\u200bthe designer.

4. Directly on the mannequin you can create ate clothes. Of course, we are talking about auxiliary patterns of a fairly simple form (pockets, frills, cuffs, straight racks) or about simplified structures from elastic materials (knitted t-shirts, sundresses). But this feature allows, firstly, to think over the overall design of the product, and secondly, it is rapid to solve the tasks for decorative design of the model.

Advantages that use the program "3D modeling":

For clothing designer:

The designer gets the opportunity to quickly make changes to the design, vary the use of various materials. The ideas of the designer can be realistic and beautifully reflected using a 3D sample.

For the head of the enterprise:

The head can control the virtual process of preparation of production and plan the launch of the models of the next seasons in advance.

For experimental production:

The time may be reduced to create and modify new models. Completely eliminates the need for several test speakers of models.

For Marketing Department:

The ability to quickly and efficiently transmit information about the model to customers. The enterprise divisions can freely transfer each other about the model on the Internet, in particular, its virtual sample.

Hardworking - bright light burns in life, lazy - dull candle

Building Pattern Basics - the most understandable way (for beginners)

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Good day! I would even say a wonderful day. Because we are finally starting the cycle of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot for little girls - and dresses and bodies are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is for yourself. And since we have already strained sewing, the fear of the pioneer passed.

So it's time to take a new frontier. And herself, with their own hands and their own brains, master the sewing wisdom of real adult patterns. We ourselves draw the score - the foundation - a new light way (I spent not one week to create this lightweight method of building the base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

Not - I will not give you no finished pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is ... that I will force your head to work and give birth to light and clear discoveries in the sewing area. The easiest and most clear of all types of arts. Believe me - it's so.

Yes - Sew it yourself very easily and simple!

Right from scratch, you will have all the new and new beautiful and well-sewn things.

And you will do everything yourself, without the condition of hypnosis, and in a sober mind and bright memory. You will do it - moreover, you will understand what you are doing.

I will reveal the secrets that I know.Moreover, I will teach you to open all the new and new secrets of the world sewing and modeling clothing.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) for the handle in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricateness of the numerous lines of drawing drawing. No, I will not lead you here:

Well, agree, one such a picture can catch up with fear and make doubts in our own power, which very, really wants to sew a dress - no i was not very friendly in school years with geometry and draw. Even I - adores both of these school subjects - for several years I went around yes about - not deciding to start to delve into the construction of such a drawing: "It's how much time it is necessary to draw it to it and after all, it is necessary to calculate everything right things and in the beaks ...".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw pattern.

We will draw a pattern of the foundation (this is a piece of it you see from above.))))

But - do not rush to scare - our pattern we will create a little differently. Frequently from the engineering method - and closer to the human understanding.

We draw with you one - only one-sole - Pattern.

And then we will create all new and new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No incomprehensible formulas
• No confused computing.
• And without a bukovo-tiofrakkova cobweb.

How? I already removed a bit of your fears?

I will now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will make a pleasant walk around the pattern. The goal of the walk to meet, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... What is the pattern - the basis?

If you put it figuratively - then this is a cast from your body. This is your individual imprint. Any thing stitched by your pattern is based, will be perfectly sitting on your figure.

Yes, you did not hear - any thing can be sewn based on one-sole. All-all models of dresses are born, are simulated, and sews from one source - this is the basis of the base.

I will prove you now on the example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern is the base - this is, in fact, your dress-case (then that is perfectly sisted on the figure). Dress stitched by you pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his Body. This is a simple dress-case stitcher on the usual pattern-based. See, it is like a gypsum cast with a girl's shape.

And you already today, having drawn the pattern, you can safely do cuttings on the fabric - and you will have such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline - giving it the form that suits your ovala face.

All other (any-committed) Dress models are just a modification of a dress-case - fantasies on a free topic.

This is how it happens in the fashion world.

Once a fashion designer thought ..."And what if the bodice of the dress at the top will keep the round coquette on the shoulders (yellow outlines - rice below), and the elevator itself will be made in the form of the oncoming triangles of Vansel (red outlines - fig. Below). As a result, it turned out what we see in the photo below.

Handsomely? Handsomely! What did the fashion designer founded? On the pattern-based. And you can come up with something your own. We - in women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we spoke here about the round coquette - there is already one article on this site on this site.

And the other fashion designer thought: "And what if you give a closer dress more free cut - make a stitching. And the shoulder line makes the chance to hang on the arm. " And in the end is born new model (photo at the bottom) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can also so. If you are Understand what pattern is the basis. And for what laws it exists.

That's why i do not want to give you a stupid instruction To create a pattern of the base (like "Take the line from the P6 point to the P5 point and mark the place of its intersection with the line x the next point ..." - pah!).

I want to wake in you xekhka. I want you to feel the pattern, I knew her soul. Inhabited to see what is simple in essence drawing hiding behind a photograph of any, even intricate the tailored, dresses.

Therefore, the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we walk along the pattern itself. We will get acquainted with all its elements - we find out what the every line serves, and why it is here exactly here and is drawn.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding just just. As if you have already painted patterns many times. And for the drawing, take the fact that it is a pair of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: "We are afraid of only the fact that we cannot understand and explain logical. But as soon as the frightening thing becomes understandable to us - she ceases to cause fear with us. "

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - the pattern is the basis. We will tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the drawing of the pattern will seem like an old and well-known simple pattern - like a lattice for playing in cross-tag.

Where does the bottom pattern come from?

So where does the score base come from - usually it is extracted from such a bit:

In the drawing there is half the back of the back + half of the details of the transfer.

We also draw a similar drawing with you - only easily and understandable.

And for which these halves are needed, and where to apply them - now I will show everything.

Here (!) Didted a wonderful obsection - down - in the photo of the black and white dress, our halves are very clear - and half the backs, and half the pass. So to speak - clearly and understandable.

Yes, in the sweat, half are called "shelves". We are with you and draw these the most shelves of the transfer and backs. But for the beginning, we will look more detailed from which elements every shelf consists. And most importantly, I will tell you why every element needs what it serves.

So that everything is most clearly, each of the elements I will illustrate both in pictures and in the photos of real models of dresses.

First, get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: Votachka and ARMHOLE.

Of course you can know them. Or maybe not. My business is to introduce.

So, Meet - Prouima

When drawing patterns, the base, you will create exactly the bend and the sizepriesim, which suits you -When the Prouram does not pull and does not stick into your hand.

That is, the pattern base contains permissible minimal arm premium size. You can simulate the runtime to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy provision should not be less than on the pattern-based. That is, the prugm on the pattern is based - these are the borders for which your fantasy should not intercede.

Your model prouchure can be how much more - but it cannot be less than on the pattern-based. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will be dug in the armpit. Here is such a rule in the modeling of the designer proy.

Now let's get acquainted with wrappers.

Out on the back - Shoulder Out + Talio Out

Here, in the picture above, I wrote everything about the backs of the back - and in the photo dresses you can find 2 Talieval Outtacks - one to the right of lightning, the other left of the lightning.

But you do not see the shoulder's shuffle on this dress. And on many dresses, it is also not. Because for convenience and beauty - this outlet is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to zipper (or along the edge of the armor, where the sleeve is simply cut into the corner). That is, the excess fabric does not be protected from the middle of the shoulder and does not stitch inside the folding. And unnecessary fabric in the form of a corner cuts off At the edge of the shelf, where there is a zipper of zipper, or the edge of the armor - where the sleeve will be inserted.

Also, the extractors are optional if you sew from fabric stretch - she herself repeats the bends of your body and climbs into the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next will get acquainted ... Out of half pass

Oh, you can write a whole poem about it.

I have dirty for a long time, how to explain clearly - for what it is needed and for what laws lives. I thought, I thought ... and invented.

The fact is that the woman has breasts.))) That is, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. Outline on the shoulder passes and gives a dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in the pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, and you need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make an outtage. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of the folding will now become convex.

But how the chest extract creates bulging on the details of the transfer

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our groomed pyramid) is on the edge of the molding. Pay attention to it. Because when we will draw a pitch for breasts, the edge of our molding will be on top of the chest (Where the nipple or a bust house dome is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measure in the store's dress of your size, which somehow strangely thrown on the chest - this is because the dressing in the dress with its edge was sent by The peaks of your chest. Here is the chest and did not go to bed perfectly in the bulge of the dress. Not under your shape of the chest crumble in the factory is a product.

But that's not all, what I want to say about breast falling.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this breast extractor is located not on the shoulder - but on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. Out on the shoulder rushes more, and on the side, and even covered with hand - it is not noticeable.

Creating a pattern, the base, we draw a breast falling on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it in terms of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the patterns - the base is ready, we are very easy and simply transferring the outlet from the shoulder zone - in the axillary zone. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. No-e-e, everything is simple here - as a package of milk to open - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I simply depicted transferring breast falling from the shoulder on the side seam at hand.

Well, how do you already feel how you walked in these 15 minutes?))) Whether it will still ... We continue the walk around the pattern and now get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

Breast line

Familiarity is the first breast line. (Beautiful dress, isn't it? We are with you so cool. Do not even doubt)

Breast line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate when drawing the painting patterns, because:

• We know that the talio sweep of the back we end to draw on the chest line.
• We know that the talio pulling of the transfer we finish to draw no reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that there is a shoulder pulling out - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the Proucy also pass through the breast line.

Well, no, of course, you still do not know. I have all these simple rules for the ladies when we start drawing. And now I just want you to find out that when drawing many elements of patterns - you can simply navigate the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly affect these buccoon-tuffer points).

As you can see - just a lot !! Therefore, ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

And what to do next - with the pattern of the basis? - you ask

And let's start sewing on the pattern-based top. It is tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not immediately dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle so the continuation should be)))

Successful to you sewing!

Computer programs for building grids are numerous and diverse. There are computer programs for creating lecturer, designed for industrial production. This, for example, Bourgeois OptiteX.. There are domestic producers like this software. For example, - Assol. The program listed above, for the construction of lecturers, everyone is good. They are multifunctional, technologically, in the end ....

These CAD (automatic design systems) cover the entire sewing production cycle. And Ottex generally allows you to try using the finished product on a virtual mannequin. But, immediately the question arises. Why shoot from such huge guns like SAD Assol, on such a small sparrows - oversunders, like simple lover of cut and sewing? By the way, not all the sewing atelier will be able to afford these CAD to afford ... they are very much. Cosmmatically expensive. And besides, as a rule, these CADS are very demanding on computing computers, and the interface and functionality is overloaded. What to do? Glory to the Universe, the way out of free computerize the construction of parametric patterns, at home, is. This is a program for building valentine patterns.

Program for building "Valentine" pattern Victoriously walks through the Native Fatherland, leaving far behind everyone listed below, similar to it, computer programs for chroopes:

Online versions of programs building patterns

1. (Difficulties with printing patterns)
2. MakeMedress. (Mute Choice both shoulder and waist, no personal account)
3. Online version Redcafe ( online stores patternsslightly paid, printing globe only for money)

Offline version of programs building patterns

1. Yet again Redcafe. Offline version. (works locally, it is relatively expensive)
2. Program for creating patterns Cutter 2.57. (paid, if you use demo versions, then limited functionality)
3. Wildginger. (on the english language, Major list of products)

Here, in fact, all. Of course, there are also options for computer programs automating cutting patterns. For example, Patterns Cad.. But this computer program To build grids, it is free. In addition, it aggressively behaves when, after installation on a computer.

Output

All listed flaws are devoid. It is truly free, which cannot but rejoice. She has a Russian interface, and this is another big plus Valentine program. The program builds parametric patterns. Building patterns can be done relative. The form of the pattern will depend on the parameters that are entered (coverage of the waist, hips and not yet one dozen parameters). Quickly installed. Works on old versions operating systems. There are no stamp problems. Works on Linux. Some advantages. You can only attribute to disadvantages that in the free access of files with patterns is practically no. Anyone who develops patterns in Valentine's program is storing them to sell them. Educational materials desperately little ...

Semi-coupling (strings of pickups we divide in half and get half-ups):

Fig. one

School - semi-cuddle neck
SG1 - Semi-Crack Breast First
SG2 - semi-cuddle breasts
SG3 - Semi-Crack Breast Third
St - half grapted waist
Sat - Half Cooks

Length:

Fig. 2.

Di - product length
DP - Shoulder Length
DTS - the length of the back to the waist
Accident - Shelf length to waist

Fig. 3.

Widths:

SP - shoulder width
SG - breast width
SC - width of the back

Fig. four

Heights:

VPK - shoulder height oblique chest

Fig. five

IPC - shoulder height oblique back

Fig. 6.

VG - chest height

Mereks from the figure we remove the figures 1-4 respectively. Removing the measurements of breast pickups, waist, and the thighs need to pay special attention to the fact that the centimeter tape should be located strictly horizontally in the narrow / wide place (depending on the measurement). Removing the girth, you do not need to pull the tape, as this may entail the alignment of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to properly remove the standards of the height of the back and shelf, as well as determine the designed line of the shoulder seam.

Flushing gain

Accessions depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired product freedom, and it is necessary to take into account when constructing. For example, we will take the average values. And also need to take into account that the additions we use to build a half of the product.

For example, we take the size of the dresses 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm on the chest) to height 164.

Measie:

Ush \u003d 18.5 cm
SG1 \u003d 45.9 cm
SG2 \u003d 50.4 cm
SG3 \u003d 48.0 cm
St \u003d 38.0 cm
Sat \u003d 52.0 cm
Di \u003d 90.0 cm
DTS \u003d 42.9 cm
DTP \u003d 44.4 cm
SP \u003d 13.3 cm
Shg \u003d 17.3 cm
Shs \u003d 18.3 cm
IPC \u003d 43.2 cm
VIRP \u003d 21.5 cm
VG \u003d 27.5 cm

Accessive:

PG \u003d 6.0 cm
Fri \u003d 3.0 cm
PB \u003d 2.5 cm
PSR \u003d 0.8 cm
PSP 0.3 cm
PS PR \u003d 4.9 cm
PDTS \u003d 0.5 cm
PDTP \u003d 1.0 cm
Pshgor \u003d 1.0 cm
PSPR \u003d 2.0 cm

Calculation for building a grid:

Mesh width (a0a1) \u003d SG3 + PG \u003d 48.0 + 6.0 \u003d 54.0 cm
The width of the back (a0a) \u003d SC + PSR \u003d 18.3 + 0.8 \u003d 19.1 cm
Shelf width (A1A2) \u003d SHG + (SG2-SG1) + PSP \u003d 17.3 + (50.4-45,9) + 0.3 \u003d 22.1 cm
The width of the armhole (AA2) \u003d SPR \u003d Sset- (SSP + SPOL) \u003d 54.0- (19,1 + 22,1) \u003d 12.8 cm
Depth of the Prummy (A0G) \u003d VIRB + PSPR 0.5 * PDTS \u003d 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 \u003d 23.8 cm
Position of the waist line (A0T) \u003d DTS + PDTS \u003d 42.9 + 0.5 cm \u003d 43.4 cm
Position of the thigh line (A0B) \u003d DTS / 2-2 \u003d 42.9 / 2-2 \u003d 19.5 cm
The position of the line of the product (A "H1) \u003d di + DTS \u003d 90.0 + 0.5 cm \u003d 90.5 cm (the backrest length should be deposited after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.

Grid construction

Step 1

Fig. 7.

The first point of construction take the point A0 and deposit from it to the right width of the mesh - 54.0 cm, carry out the line and at the end of the segment we put the point A1.

Right on the point A0 on the A0A1 line lay the backrest width, we obtain a point a.

To the left of the point A1 on the A0A1 line lay the shelf width and get a point A2.
AA2 segment is the width of the armor.

Down from point A0 lay the height of the grid and put the point of the product at the end of the segment. Corresponds to the line niza product (at this stage).

From point A0 down, lay the position of the breast line on the line A0G and get a point in G.
Also on the point A0 on the segment A0G laying the position of the waist line and get a point of T.
And the position of the line of the thighs is deposited from the point t on the segment a0g and get the point B.

From point A1 down, we also postpone the grid height and get the point H3. Close rectangle.

From the points r, t and b, they carry out horizontally and we obtain points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the A1N3 line.
In turn, from the points, A and A2, we lower the vertical on the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important stage of grid construction should look like shown in Fig. 7.

Building back drawing

Step 2.

Fig. eight

From point A0, we deposit to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the removal of the back of the back. Get a point A0. "

From point A0 "down along line A0N, we deposit the level of the blades, which is 0.4 * DTS \u003d 0.4 * 42.9 \u003d 17.2 cm and we get a point of W. We connect the point y with a point A0" time line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back of the back A0 "A \u003d A2A1 \u003d 7.2 / 3 \u003d 2.4 down from point A0" on the line a0 "y. We deliver a rectangle and make a line of the neck of the back of a leak curve.
This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. eight.

Step 3.

Fig. nine

From the point T left on the waist line TT3, we postpone the tap along the waistline \u003d 1.5 cm, for semi-wave products. We get a point T1.

To build a middle seam of the back, we deposit from the point H right with an equal dutch along the waistline of 1.5 cm and get the point H1. We carry out the middle seam of the back across the points A - T1-H1.

From the neck of the back to the middle seam, we deposit the backrest length and get the point H (correct length).

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. nine.

Step 4.

Fig. 10

We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from the point A2 equal to the SP + solution of the cutting \u003d 13.3 + 2.0 \u003d 15.3 cm, where the extractive solution is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from the point T1 is equal to MIC + PVPK, where PPVK \u003d PDTs + PPN (purchase on the shoulder lining, in this case \u003d 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 \u003d 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of radii from point A2 and T1, we put the P1 point.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 10.

Step 5.

Fig. eleven

Building shoulder extracts Let's start with the definition of the molding position on the shoulder seam. The wrap must be located on 1/3 - ¼ from the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 \u003d 4.4 - 3.3, we take a value of 4.0 cm.

The solution of the damp in the construction of the shoulder seam we took \u003d 2.0 cm. We deposit on the shoulder from the point A2 point and 1 and with a step 2.0 cm point and2. Next, from points I1 and I2, we carry out a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we obtain the point I. connect points and both and1 and И2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to increase the parties of the pulp of the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

Connect the sides of the dotch with the points of the neck A2 and the end of the shoulder seam p2. From the point P2 to the vertical A1G1 we carry out perpendicular, it will be needed to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armor.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6.

Fig. 12

The auxiliary points of the loatching system on the basis of the length of the line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To construct a point P3 \u003d 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm \u003d 8.3 cm. Deoperate the P3 point from the point G1 from the breast line Cut G1A1.

From the angle of g1 of the armies, we carry out a bisector length \u003d SPR * 0.2 + 0.5 cm \u003d 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 \u003d 3.1 cm.

The auxiliary point of g2 is located in the middle of the width of the armor, the TE SPR / 2 \u003d 12.8 / 2 \u003d 6.4 cm.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7.

Fig. 13

The line of the backrest is decorated with a smooth line, while the point P2 must have a straight angle.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 13.

Building a pole drawing

Step 8.

Fig.14.

To build the center of the center of the breast, the distance g3g4 / 2 - 1.0 \u003d 22, ½ - 1.0 \u003d 10.1 cm deposit from the point G3 to the right and get a point of G6.

For products of the payable group, we decorate the waist line descent \u003d 0.5 cm, for this we are deposited from the point T3 down 0.5 cm and get the point T31. From this point, we carry out the horizontal to the left of the equal width of G3G6.

To construct the width of the neck, the shelf SS / 3 + Pshgory \u003d 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 \u003d 7.2 cm, lay from the point A3 to the left to the horizontal and we get the point A4. The neck depth is calculated by the formula A3A4 +1.0 \u003d 8.2 cm and is carried out by a radius from the A4 points per vertical A3T3 and we obtain the point of the neck A5. In turn, from Points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make a sneaker and get an auxiliary point of A3 "from which we spend the arc of the neck of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. fourteen.

Step 9.

Fig.15

The position of the highest point of the thoracic glands is deposited from the point A4 by the radius equal to VG \u003d 27.5 cm and we get a point of G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with a radius of the height of the breast from the point G7 and the radius of the molding solution from point A4 we find the point A9.

We connect the points A9 and A4 with a point of g7 and get a cheerful shelf's chest.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. fifteen.

Step 10.

Fig. sixteen

To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of the P4 point on the segment A2G4. For this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm \u003d 18.9 - 1.0 \u003d 17.9 cm we obtain the distance P4G4. Next is the distance G4P4 / 3 \u003d 6.0 cm and deposit this distance from the point G4 up and get the P6 point.

P5 point We obtain at the intersection of arcs from the point A9 - the width of the shoulder \u003d 13.3 cm and from the point P6 equal to the distance p6p4 \u003d 11.9 cm.

We carry out the shoulder line through points A9P5.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. sixteen.

Step 11.

Fig.17

For the construction of the shelf armor, we conduct auxiliary line, in the middle of which I exhibit perpendicular with a length of 1.0 cm.

From the angle of G4 to construct the armor, we carry out bisector of the SPR * 0.2 \u003d 12.8 * 0.2 \u003d 2.6 cm.

Through points of P5 - P6 - G2 and built perpendicularers carrying the shellf line.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 17.

Building side lines

Step 12.

Fig. eighteen

Building sidelines on the line of breasts, we start from the G4 point is the middle of the armor. From the point G4, we spend the vertical, this is the axial line of the side seam.

At the intersection with the line of waist, hips and bottoms get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

For registration of the side seam, we take 0.4 * p-p otet tal \u003d 0.4 * 11.5 \u003d 4.6 and divide this amount for two, as it is a complete solution of the cutting in the side seam. For this, 4.6 / 2 \u003d 2.3 cm and deposit in each direction from point T2. And get points T21 and T22.

Next, calculate the extension by the thighs, for this (Sat + PB) - B1B3 \u003d (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 \u003d 2.0 cm. It is also divided in half 2/2 \u003d 1.0 cm in order to To post down on both sides of the b2 of the hips extension. And get points B21 and B22.

IN this example Building will leave the dress of a straight silhouette below, therefore, along the line of the lateral seam, we postpone the same meanings as the hips. And get points H21 and H22.

Through the points of the G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21, we carry out the line of the side seam shelf and the back.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. eighteen.

Step 13.

Fig. nineteen

To build a molding along the waistline, the backs are determined by the position of the waist along the waist on the back, for this distance T1T21 / 2 \u003d 21.8 / 2 \u003d 10.9 cm and get the point T4.

Next, calculate the solution of the wrath over the waist line (p-p ott tal - r-p ott tal side) * 0,55 \u003d (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 \u003d 3.8 cm. This solution is also divided by half 3.8 / 2 \u003d 1.9 and deposit from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the mold from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm - we get points K1 and K2 appropriately.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. nineteen.

Step 14.

Fig. twenty

To build a molding along the waistline, the shelves use the position of the breast center on the shelf, for this down from the waist line from the point T6, we lower the vertical to the thigh line - we get a point T5.

Next, we calculate the solution of the mold along the waistline of the rr ott tal - p-p oteta soup-p-p pulled the joint venture \u003d 11.5 - 4,6 - 3.8 \u003d 3.1 cm. This solution is also divided by half 3, ½ \u003d 1.55 and deposit from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.

The height of the molding from the waist line up and down is also as on the back of 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. twenty.

Step 15.

Fig. 21.

To build embossed lines, it is necessary to translate part of the cheap ropes. To do this, serif, equal to the distance from the neck to the recess of the back \u003d 4.0 cm on the shelf line, laying 4.0 cm and get a point A81.

Connect the point A81 and the point of G7 is the length of the radius of the transfer of the breaststuff \u003d 26.3 cm.

Now, from the point A4, we set the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 \u003d 4.0 cm, we put the first place, and from the point G7 by a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make a second sex. At the intersection of radii we get a point A8. Then connect the points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the shoulder line to the line of the shelf and the shelf relief area.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16.

Fig. 22.

To decorate the line of the product, it is necessary to lower the line of the shelf center - the descent of the N3N31 line is 1.0 cm.

The line of reliefs of the shelf and the backs are lowered to the line of the Niza and get points H4 and H5, respectively.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 22.

Fig. 23.

Building a dress approached completion and our drawing should look like shown in Fig. 23.

Step 17.

Fig. 24.

Next, it is necessary to translate the main details of the shelf, the shelf barrel, backs and a barrel of the backrest on the tracing and add allowances to the seams.

This stage of construction should look like shown in Fig. 24.

If this is your first steps in the design, the design must be checked, that is, sew a dress from the macate fabric and carry out the fitting to be confident that there were no errors in calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, you need to add the details of the necks of the neck and the backrest and the shelter. And also, if desired, decorative elements - coquettes, swans, kanta, etc.

Photo: Site
Store and Illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Material prepared Anna Sobolev