Homemade computer for computer. History of creating your own corps for PC

After purchasing a new computer, either the improvement of the old one often arises that the computer housing itself does not satisfy in one way or another. This is the noise level, setting new parts or an additional power supply, cooling. And all these innovations are not placed in your old case, or the temperature level is increased simply to the exhaust limits. And you start looking for the most affordable solution to the problem: buying a new building or making it yourself, on your own. This article will consider an example, how to make a body for a computer with your own hands or improve it. If necessary, you can see the video instruction for the manufacture of the case, for example:

As you know, in choosing a computer case, you need to think not only about appearanceAlthough the original approach and non-standard solution are also important. First of all, it is necessary to clearly represent that the housing is an integral part of your PC, and not just a beautiful box on the table or under the table. To the design of the case you need to go with the knowledge of the case. First you need to know which types and types of buildings, their differences and functionality.

To date, only four main varieties of types of cases for PC are known. There are, of course, many extraordinary solutions, but about it after. In each of these types there are nice and not very sides, so it is impossible to definitely say which one is the best. Just read their advantages and disadvantages so that in your design it was to rely on. Or, if you decide that independent making you can not, then you will be clear the criteria for which you can buy a suitable high-quality body from the manufacturer.

There is vertical (Tower) and horizontal (desktop) enforcement of cases. Vertical enclosures usually allow you to put more drives and all kinds of other devices, and horizontal are more compact.

The first type of hull that we will consider is called Small Form Factor (Compact)

This type of housing is distinguished by compact sizes. It is especially convenient for office computers, or for home PC, if you do not need a particularly powerful system. The dimensions of such a housing are very small (about 25x25 cm), which allows it to be easy to fit into any interior and take a minimum place. Such corps have a big minus, such miniaturization requires a suitable "filling", small sizes details. In such a housing, it is no longer possible, for example, insert a modern powerful video card or processor. In addition, small dimensions can cause cooling problems, the components may overheat, causing failures and breakdowns of the system.

The second type of enclosures is called Mini-Tower Form

Such a housing can already be used for a fairly powerful office PC, or for a home media center. Such cases, as a rule, were originally equipped with a power supply with a power of 400W. In such a case, you can collect a good system with a two-core processor, put a powerful video card, but many modern components for this option will have to choose from the calculation of the mini. Another inconvenience is the need for a monthly cleaning of dust.

Third type of enclosures called Moddle-Tower Form

This type of housing is the most popular and common. In such a case, you can easily place a good ventilation system, several powerful video cards, put additional hard drives. This case is well suited for those who are not limited to the size of the system unit. This type of enclosures is difficult to enter in the interior, but it provides good performance Systems and satisfy the requirements of even avid "igmanov".

The fourth type of enclosures is called big-tower

Such a housing can be very rarely found as a home PC. It is noticeably most of all others, and its height reaches at least half meter. In this case, you can accommodate not only five good video cards or hard drives, it is suitable for creating servers or a computer that controls other computers in the office. Such a housing allows you to place good ventilation in it, which will save the computer from the possibility of overheating. Thus, Big-Tower is ideal for the most advanced users who are busy in the field of IT technologies and especially demanding gamers.

The first moment to be paid to the selection of either the design of the housing is whether internal space is sufficient. It is necessary to determine if you can put the device there for the required cooling of the system unit, installing fans. It is necessary that the air freely circulate inside the housing, thereby ensuring the cooling of all parts. Pay attention to the power of the case in the case or the package bought separately (BP). It should be sufficient for the planned PC system. You should also pay attention to the location of the power supply in the case. At high power supply, it is necessary to think about cooling it. BP required to cool only yourself.

For optimal cooling and low noise, BP can be placed according to such schemes.

In the scheme, with the upper BP location, we get such advantages:

1. Low noise level (19 dB) when installing a capacity of 430 W, ARX fan ARX FD1212-S2142E 12V 0,36A 2400 rp;
2. The temperature of the elements increases slightly (+3 degrees in BP and +1 degrees in the case);
3. Standard location;
4. Free air outlet.

This design can be collected about the same way as in the photo below.

Silverstonetek has been established by the production of housings with the lower arrangement of BP.

The advantages of this design are:

1. The power supply is used to cool only itself;
2. There is no need to remake BP;
3. Low center of gravity for PC housing.

From the disadvantages, you can note: excess fan noise and difficult access to the air power plant.

The material for the manufacture of the housing is mainly aluminum or steel, although many homemade housings are made of wood or plexiglass. The advantages of the aluminum corps include light weight and good heat transfer. But such a housing is easily bent and often the appearance of scratches. The cost of aluminum buildings is higher than steel. The steel case has greater reliability and durability. All items in such a case will be securely protected. In addition, steel is better than vibrations, which reduces the sound of the computer.

When considering different design solutions of the buildings, it is important first of all to determine which connectors and interfaces will be needed now in the future. Many of the possible options, such as a thermometer embedded in the column, you do not need, and it is simply necessary for others. Here you need to decide what to choose the design and construction, based on the above. And do not forget about the originality ...

Case for a computer with your own hands

So, you decided to make a homemade case for a computer. This case must allow you to establish any possible components in it, to give them quick access and provide good cooling. Already, options for housing, providing: almost complete silent, high performance performance is the possibility of computing capacity, convenience in service. True, this case will not work compact.

The computer case can be made of wood according to the following technology.

The scheme shows the location of the main components and circulation of air flows.

Work drawings of such a housing can be downloaded. http://www.easycom.com.ua/downloads/skvorechnik_001.zip.

Or look at the figure below.

The case of the computer is collected out of six walls and one transverse shelf in the middle part. In the top of the case, the motherboard, the processor fan, video adapter, and all drives, drive, card reader, hard disks and power supply will be placed in the bottom. The lower part was decided to provide only one 120x120x25 mm fan, since only one element will be located there, which needs forced ventilation, is a power supply. In the upper part for normal cooling, video cards and the processor, it is necessary to put a minimum of three fans, with a size of 120x120x25 mm. They are perfectly placed on the front wall of the future building.

The selection of the case material is determined by your capabilities. Plexiglas or acrylic is quite expensive at cost. Iron sheets, of which theoretically, it is possible to make the same body, unacceptable, as the weight of the case will grow strongly. Already with a sheet thickness of only 2 mm. The manufactured housing is likely to exceed 40 kg. And besides, the metal is difficult to process and its cost is also not small.

In our embodiment, a chipboard will be used. These are wood sawdust compressed into sheets with dimensions of 2660x1660x16 mm (Sh.D.) and impregnated with special glue.

The details of the housing are locked according to the drawings and cut down. There is nothing complicated in this, but you can order those who are engaged in the manufacture of furniture. If you decide to cut the blanks yourself, you will need required tool: Electrolovka and wood saws.

You must have such blanks. Well process the edges of the blanks with sandpaper.

When all the billets are made, you can proceed to the assembly of the hull itself. It is necessary to connect and fasten the parts according to the drawings. The homemade case for the computer in the partially assembled form the case will look like this.

For the reason that the front panel will be used not only as a "air intake", and it will be located on it the on, reboot of the computer and all the main indicators (hard drives and the entire system), they must be revealed to the wooden panel. It is necessary to make holes for all ports, on and rebooting buttons, display LEDs. Everything needs to be done neat and strictly in size.

LEDs can not work directly from the shoe motherboardThey need to be connected to it sequentially with resistance, with a rating of 480-55 ohms and a dilapidated power of 0.25 W. All these details can be bought in any radio market. Wires for connecting buttons and LEDs with motherboardPlugs in Q-Connector, which comes with ASUS boards. The insulating material uses a heat shrinkage. This is a tube made of special material (polychlorvinyl), which can change its geometric shape (diameter) when heated. In practice, a piece of such a tube is put on the wire, solder it with another and shifted a piece of tube to the place of soldering. After that he warms it a little bit lighter. After that, the tube narrows around the place of the soldering and forms good insulation. The shrinkage coefficient reaches up to 30%.

This means that if the diameter of the tube is 6 mm, then when heated, it will change its value to almost 4 mm. Such a tube can also be bought in any radio shops, and the price is only 2-4 UAH per meter. Such an insulating material is desirable to carry out all operations related to the installation of wires for the manufacture of this housing.

On the back of the case, the connectors for input and power outlet from the network ~ 220 V and a backlit switch are installed.

Special attention should be paid to the selection of fans for the case. They must meet the aesthetic requirements, because they will always be in sight. After all, the front panel pays the most attention. It is necessary to choose the quietest fans suitable for your performance. Therefore, the options for the grill type "Grill" immediately moved away.

The thermaltake cyclo 12cm Red Pattern fan is well suited for this solution or a similar one. His choice was determined not only technical characteristicswhich can envy many fans. This fan operates at a speed of 1500 rpm and the level of noise created no higher than 17 dB, which is characterized as extremely quiet. His dignity is a kind of animated illumination.

However, you can choose and more "advanced" model from this fan series, Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm logo Fan. In this model, it is not like in Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Red Pattern of various animated emblems, but "writes" the thermaltake logo, the approximate temperature of the passing air (built-in thermal sensor) is displayed, and the relative noise level is displayed, which creates a fan.

All these fans using wood screws are mounted on the front panel in approximately the following:

To avoid the problem of bending the textolite of the motherboard, which is due to the rigid fastening of the cooler without a special clamping plate, you need to replace this clamping plate. You can choose felt of the required thickness (about 7-8 mm) and cut a square with dimensions a little more than the holes for fastening the cooler of the Socket LGA 775 cooler. If you look at the height of the rack for fastening the motherboard, the felt above it is 1-2 mm, What gives the necessary stiffness when the motherboard is bent. Felt can be bought in many construction stores or "with hands" in the markets. The cost of such a piece will be approximately 5 to 20 UAH.

At the very end of the entire draft of the case, it is necessary to do all the necessary holes in the shelf of the motherboard, through which the wires of the power supply will be held, the loops of hard drives, drives, etc., first need to be screwed at the motherboard at its place and mark and sign all the locations in the marker. Connectors. After that, with the help of electric drills and a file, all these holes are made.

The homemade body for a computer from the outside of the housing is easiest to be saved by self-tech. Such material is made of thick paper or special rubberized tide. The color decision is limited only by your fantasy or assortment of the store (from clean white to various photo wallpaper). Such self-keeper is sold by rolls on the temporon meter. The width of the rolls is two types: 450 mm and 550 mm. The cost depends on the complexity of the drawing and width and usually within 11 - 22 UAH for the temporon meter. For the manufacture of this case, a brilliant "self-key" was chosen. After calculating according to the drawings, it was determined that for pasting the entire body, five meters of "self-keys" will be needed.

For cutting cutting, another material will be used, bilateral tape with a foam basis.

It is necessary as a seal in places of contact of the vibrating components (hard disks, drives) with the walls of the case. The foam rubber from which the strips are 14-18 mm wide and a thickness of 2 mm, in their consistency is very soft and compressed to 0.5 mm, having the opportunity also to spring. All this is very good for the seal. The presence of a sticky substance on both sides allows you to firmly fix this seal, and the individual components are secured with it.

It remains to still make a "basket" to attach all drives, hard drives, drive and card reader. Apply the standard "basket", which is installed in serial buildings, is difficult and inconvenient due to non-standard location of installed devices. You can use for these purposes a piece of plexiglass with a thickness of 4 mm. It will be needed not so much, somewhere the meter per meter. Cutting such a material is carried out by manual grinding or "grinder". It is not difficult to produce all these works. After that, it is necessary to drill in the workpieces the necessary holes. The plexiglass is quite fragile material, and with careless handling sometimes crumble. To drill in it with a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm, you need to make this operation in three or four navigation, start with a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, and end 3.6 mm. You need to not forget the "nest" to drill for a bolt cap to hide it. To do this, you need a drill of such a diameter like a hat. All drives, drives and card readers are attached to the use of the same seal from bilateral scotch.

So that hard drives do not transfer their vibration to the basket, thereby increasing the level of noise, you can consolidate them with the help of four erase.

When all these operations are done, you can assemble the case. Collected bottom part The housings, with the "basket", hard disks, drives, card reader, drive and the installed power supply, looks like this:

In a fully assembled form, this housing will look like this:

The homemade enclosure for the computer after testing the computer's work showed good temperature regimens. The cost of the homemade hull was significantly lower than the specialized Middle Tower or Full Tower enclosures. In order to make a computer for a computer with their own hands, only certain skills work with a soldering iron and a special tool are needed.

I do not like standard system blocks. They are big, inside a lot of empty space and occupy a lot of space on the table. I need the block to stand on the table, because it often has to climb into it. Well, yes, I climb and sit there. No, for example, strying screws or something else. In general, when I look at him, I want to take and unlock half. So I did it. I bought an old corps in the commission department for 300 p, removed the side walls, saws the hacksaw for the metal superfluous and made this compact turret. Its dimensions are 175x220x425 mm. That's even painted, but what about, this is the most important thing.

There are such MATX motherboards 170 mm wide format. Here is this in this case and installed. In all the rest, this is the usual office computer, nothing special. Plata ASRock LGA775 G41M-VGS3, dual-core Intel E6600. Not expensive cooler on a processor with two heat pipes. I have been using for several years at work. Here you can look inside. Winchester fitted on the back wall and makes it impossible to use the PCI-E slot, the PCI slot is available. If it still will be used to use PCI-E, the hard drive fastening over the DVD-RW.

Instead of the side wall of the door on the latch, easily opens and closes.

The front panel glued from plexiglas and wooden lines. Let's look at the BIOS, the temperature of the processor is about nothing. Well, yes, the fan is noise full programAnd the room where it is used not quiet, so it does not interfere.

Here we open the door, you tray the strangers and work calmly.

It is quite natural that me, as an amateur of small system units, interested MINI - ITX motherboards size 170 by 170 mm. Let's look at my first design on such a scarf. What we have inside. INTEL D945GCLF - 2 motherboard with built-in dual-core intel processor ATOM 330. FSP250 - 50 GLV Power Supply. DVD-RW NEC AD-7590S SLIM. SAMSUNG HD200HJ Winchester. Memory DDR2 - 2 GB. For this computer, the case I designed and made completely from aluminum. The inner space is divided into two parts by an aluminum partition. In one part there is itself motherboardwhich is attached to this partition.

In another power supply, Winchester and DVD-RW.

Closed with a p-shaped lid of the same metal. This housing is scored under the string, there is no free space there. Temperature regime is normal, everything works fine. Size - 140 x 220 x 230 mm. This is such a modest surfing machine on Internet, office tasks, photo processing and so on with its tasks well coped. It has long been, even before that first turret. Here is another rear view, well, the machine itself is entirely.

And finally the last brainchild. Motherboard with FM1 GA-A75N-USB3 Form Form factor MINI-ITX, AMD A75 chipset, aMD processor A8-3870K built into the video card processor AMD Radeon. HD 6550D, DDR3-4 GB memory, cooler on the SCYTHE SAMURAI ZZ processor. SCYTHE KAZE MASTER ACE fan speed regulator. In this computer under the system and I used SSD Samsung 830 Capacity 64 GB., Under all the rest of the hard drive 2.5 Hitachi 250 GB. DVD no. I use external USB if necessary. At first I managed to plunge all this into the housing of 230x200x170 mm. I had to use a non-standard power supply and a cooler on the processor was another Scythe Kozuti, it is much more compact. In principle, in such a case, it all worked fine, but all the fans spinled on complete circulation, the processor temperature was at the level of 50 degrees. In this case, it did not suit me. Noise, like a vacuum cleaner, but hits like an angry cat. Therefore, the body had to make another. Afferently. And he became such a 240x220x360. As we see, the place occupied on the table has not changed almost not changed, and in the height of the body has increased significantly. Well, what, let him grow. That's how it looks

.

Here is the back.

Internal design of the case of two-story. On the first floor there is a standard power supply, a fan speed regulator, SSD and HDD. On the second floor, the motherboard installed horizontally.

The cooler of the processor does not drive the air inside the case, and takes it out of the air duct, which I glued from the cardboard and sailed it with foil. One end of the air duct will be on the fan, and the second is inserted into the frame of the window, which is located on the rear wall, comes out the outside of the body and is closed with a metal grid. On the front wall there is a fan of 80x80mm., Which blows warm air from the case, can be pregnant.

Now everything has become normal. And not the noise and temperature of the components are normal, rises on any heavy tasks, for example, when converting large video files, the processor is heated to 47 degrees, which is also quite small.

The configuration of this typewriter is quite suitable for me, no upgrades are foreseen. In addition, the FM1 socket is no longer developing and gave way to FM2. Of course, if it is necessary, you can change the hard drive to more capacious and if you think about the 64 discharge OS, you can increase the volume random access memorySo this is a finished design. Now about the case. It is from a tree. Covers from pine wheels and corners. In general, everything is quite simple. We cut the bunch for the base, we glue the fastening for the legs, the front and rear wall of the PVA glue, in the middle of the aluminum plate on which the motherboard is placed and which provides additional stiffness of the design.

The side walls are removable and moved to the grooves of the rear and front panel. This ensures access to the insides. Also from the longitudinal and transverse speakers, the ventilation holes are sealed with a metal mesh, from the inside are placed foil. All this closes on top of a wooden lid.

Everything, that's such a short review, thanks for your attention, be healthy.

Good afternoon, hubrovska. Many thanks for the invite! And although you start with the translation of other people's posts - not the most a good ideaPerhaps this project homemade someone else will seem mega-cool.

This is a translation of the post from the Overclock.net forum. The user Show4Pro decided to pull out all the insides of his super computer and hang everything on the wall. An excellent idea is perfectly implemented. Who wondered how it was going and how it works - Velkov under Cat.

Last time I updated my homework 1.5 years ago. Well, I thought to upgrade the wheelbarrow to I7 (before that was Bloomfield), although in fact, I was not needed a more powerful processor. I wanted to buy new housing - Corsair 900D, to change the 8-year-old Super Armor. But I wanted something special, unique. In Battlestations on the reddit-e, I came across a very simple, but elegant solution is a wall comp. And from that, the whole project began.

Accessories:

CPU: Intel Core I7 950.
Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Extreme
Video cards: 2 x AMD HD7970
RAM: 6 x 2GB Corsair Dominator
SSD discs: 4 x 120GB Corsair Force GT SSD
HDD discs: 2 x 1tb WD Caviar Black
2TB WD Caviar Green
1.5TB WD Caviar Green
Power supply: Corsair AX1200i
Sound: Creative Sound. Blaster ZX.

Cooling:

COOLING FOR CPU:
Radiator for Water Cooling CPU EK SUPREME HF Full Copper
Pomp swiftech MCP655 / W Speed \u200b\u200bControl
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 400 ML Reservoir cooler - Blood Red
Radiator XSPC RX360 Performance Triple 120mm Radiator

Cooling GPU.
Radiator for the video card EK FC7970 - ACETAL + EN
Pomp and cooler are the same as for the pro.
SWIFTECH MCP655 / W Speed \u200b\u200bControl
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 400 ML Reservoir - Blood Red
Water Cooling Radiator Watercool MO-RA3 9x120 LT Radiator

Other:

Cooling nozzles
Koolance QD4 Quick Discounnect No-Spill Coupling
BitsPower G1 / 4 Silver Triple Rotary 90deg Compression Fittings
MONSOON FREE CENTER COMPRESSION FITTINGS
Flexing Gunge for Pipe Phobya Angled Clip 90 ° TUBING GUIDE
Holder Phobya Terminal Strip Tubing Clip / Holder
Cooling Tubes (Red) PRIMOCHILL ADVANCED LRT TUBING BLOODSHED RED
Refrigerant Phosphoricing, Blue EK UV Blue Non-Conductive Fluid

Cables:
Bitfenix Alchemy Premium Sleeved Extensions
Corsair Individually Sleeved Modular Cables

Creature.

To begin with, I took photos of all components in their real sizes and arranged all this in Photoshop. Thus, I was able to move them along the work surface and decide how it would look like. Well, it is necessary for the wiring of cooling tubes. Here are a pair of layouts:

From this refused, due to an empty place in the lower right corner. And the motherboard was on the left, although it should be in the very center and attract attention to the entire panel.

Here, too, a bunch of places on the right, although the power supply and motherboard is closer to the center. In the final version of the cooling tube stretch all over the right edge, plus two thermometers appeared there.

I carry the drawing of the motherboard on the acrylic sheet.

Since the video adapters will be far from the motherboard, I ordered extension cords for the PCIE slot for each of the cards on eBay. I am testing how they work. True, then I had huge problems with cross-work of cards because of cheap unshielded wires. They turned out to be each other and created serious interference. Vistula system on BIOS loading. It was possible to run only with one card. In the end, I had to wake up on very expensive cables with good protection. But about it later.

Product arrived!

Most of the water cooling is from Performance-PC. They even gave me a T-shirt and two more mats for the mouse!

Acrylic substrate for motherboard.

All acrylic panels are cut under 45 ° to achieve the effect of the edge luminescence.

Holes are drilled, fasteners are installed.
TA-dah!!! It turns out that Mom Rampage III Extreme is an EATX format. And this is for ATH form factor.
The correct EATX substrate I did later.

It is time to pay my old dusty case.

In the old computer, the disks are inserted into the Boxes of Vantec HDCS, which of 2-5.25 "-x are made 3 boxes for HDD.

Video card.

Substrates for all components.

Castom mounts for pumps from acrylic.

Closeup of black finish made with a table saw. Later they will need to polish.

In the center of each plate there is a triangular cut. It will reflect the light, which is projected perpendicularly inside the plate at the edges. Without cut edges, barely glow.

Test with light on the panel with sound.

All panels are ground with a wet sandpaper by 120.

Closeup of grinding.

All rear panels with finished holes.

Under the table - acrylic snow.

Preparation for painting in red.
Surprisingly, Corsair made thermal staples on petals, although they do not heated at all.

Marking of all components on the main board to mark various slots and holes. Board - 1/4 "48 x 30 DVP.

All gaps and holes are marked in their places.

I am preparing to cut slots with a jigsaw.

Blinding the frame.

The inner edges choke into black - under the color of the carbon film.

Soldering LED ribbons.

Workplace.

LED tape. Temporary fastening.

Glue giant vinyl film. It was the most cruel part. I almost got a heart attack. How to stick the film on the phone screen, only x1000 more.

No bubbles!

I use aluminum scotch to hide the LED on the front of the panel for hard disks, between them.

My assistant is Tommy.

All substrates are installed in their places on the shared board on the screws No. 10. They were screwed into in advance prepared holes.

Check light.

Cooling fluid arrived and cables. I used BitFenix \u200b\u200bfor components and Corsair - for the power supply.

On the left - Bitfenix, right - Corsair. Bitfenix is \u200b\u200bnot a black heat shrink on the ends, so the Corsair looks steeper.

Red ties to tighten the hanging wires.

Backside. All cables are connected.

We test for tightness until the entire system lies on the floor - it is easier to troubleshoot problems.

First start.

Not loaded. Connected via an Irog USB to a laptop to see the download log. It turned out - the system is stuck on the VGA BIOS. Disconnected one of the video cards - everything worked. I tried to connect another - also works. Both cards - no. He conducted a small study and found out that unshielded PCIE extension cables with ribbon cables are very susceptible to electromagnetic interference. I tried to shield them by turning into several layers of aluminum foil.

After the 4-layers of the foil, I managed to launch both maps. But the car immediately hung, as soon as I started any game or some 3D editor. Moreover, my SoundBlaster also cascade is connected by a loop with a slot of 3 x1 PCIE, and it also greatly prevented the work of the look and hung the system.
As a result, with pain in the heart, I had to order expensive protected extension cords for PCIE slots from 3m (approx. $ 100 each)

Shielded 3M extensions on site. They turned out to be longer than previous and now both video cards reached the PCIe X16.

Changed the previous sound on the SoundBlaster ZX. This looks amazing!

And finally

At the moment everything works smoothly. Installation has only 2 fans. On BP, he hardly moves, and another I put on the chipset - very quiet. Pump works on the lowest power, so that the computer came out pretty quiet. The only thing that annoys - it turned out that outside the housing is heard the operation of some components. In my case, this is a buzz of a seey and 1thel Winchester.

EK UV refrigerant is very sensitive to ultraviolet. I know that it is impossible to mix cooling fluids to keep their properties, but damn it, if I used it undiluted - could not see the spiral in the tank. For both contours I took about 1/8 from the can, the rest is distilled water.

From translator

I do not pretend to at least any authorship is an incredible project. I'm just a journalist, with the formation of an electrical machine, and engage in such things - my dream. And to be honest, I would make the table, not the wall. So I decided, suddenly not all hubrovski sit on

For a computer in the store. They are horizontal or vertical - this is the most common type. However, if you do not take into the calculation of some diversity of the front panel, they all look the same, distinguishing except color. A boring metal box with a pair of buttons and a pair of LEDs may not satisfy the feeling of beautiful, and then I want to make a body for your PC with your own hands. There is another situation - the existing in stock ceases to arrange the functional in terms of the functional - it becomes a little space or insufficient ventilation, which is why the computer components are overheated. For example, it is sometimes necessary to add a second video card or several hard drives, and the standard housing becomes low-taking place for all this. Other situations occur when the case for the computer has to do. For example, all the money is spent on top accessories, and there is not enough on the body of the budget. Or there is a laptop with a faulty display, and I want to turn it into a tabletop. Cases are different, but unites them one - you need to take tools in the hands and make the body for the computer with your own hands.

Creating a case for a PC yourself.

What you need to take into account

The most important requirement for any computer case, including self-made - sufficient space for ventilation and cooling. In the standard, most common buildings like Moddle-Tower Form, there is no accidentally there is a lot of empty space. This allows air to circulate freely, and when installing energy-intensive components, it is possible to add additional fans. Therefore, when developing a homemade design, not only the dimensions of all components must be taken into account, but also to provide free place For circulation of air flows near each of them. It is also necessary to decide how the power supply will be installed. There are two options:

1. From above. This is a classic scheme at which a warm air passes through the power supply. This is ensured by ventilation and a small noise level is achieved. But there is a minus - the power supply can overheat himself, if there are no other coolers. The system of the system case with the upper power supply unit is usually used to create their own hands.
2. Bottom. In this case, the power supply is placed on the bottom of the housing, and the air in it comes from below, through the grille, and blows out through the other wall outward. Plus - the power supply is well cooled exclusively "intricate air". Minus - he does not at all participate in the system cooling system as a whole, so the coolers are necessarily needed. Another minus - the flow of air to the power supply occurs under the bottom of the case and may be difficult. In addition, the noise level will be increased - it creates air movement at the bottom, plus noise from the fan is transmitted directly to the surface.

If you select a horizontal option - Desktop type, then the requirements remain the same, perhaps the places for maneuvers with a power unit less. However, ventilation must be provided for all nodes.

What material to choose

The case for the computer, made by your own hands, should be not only beautiful, but also durable and functional. Although some make it even from a boxed cardboard, it is quite non-serious. Usually choose such materials:

• Wood.
• Plexiglas.
• Aluminum.
• Steel.

Each option has its advantages and disadvantages. Consider them in more detail.

Plexiglas - easily sawing and cutting, the case with due accuracy is quite professional. This option usually choose fans of modding - the creators of beautiful and original transparent enclosures with a multitude of highlighting inside. Of the flaws - this material still requires the skill with it and the skills in its processing. An awkward movement - and a long deep scratch is provided.

Aluminum has a lot of advantages, and the main - it is light and has good heat transfer. However, this is a relatively expensive material, moreover, due to the flexibility of aluminum, the rigidity of the body and the internal partitions will be weak. Yes, it is splashing easily, therefore surface treatment is required. Steel perfectly extinguishes vibration, has good thermal conductivity, and durable. The steel case will reliably protect the internal nodes from any impacts. But for processing, various tools needed, and this work is not from the lungs. But the result is excellent.

Before making the case itself for a computer, the question with the material must be solved. If there is no skills to work with the metal, but I want to use it, you can make it so - to design all the patterns and make drawings. In many cities there are workshops and enterprises, where in drawings to order accurately cut down and even deliver all the details, from the metal of the desired thickness. It will only take to collect this designer. With wooden blanks you can do the same.

Build design

It is difficult to give some tips here - everything is strictly individually. You can make the case with a standard design only from the need when there is no money to buy it, although it's not so much. Therefore, for this work, people are usually taken creative to make something original, which does not have anyone. Or to solve some technical task - for example, the contents of the laptop are placed in a separate case and fasten it from behind the TV. Fans of modding - experiments with a computer case design, which options not created options. These are wallpapers, including the panel under glass. These are numerous transparent enclosures with spectacular highlighting coolers and other nodes.

Some even staged it from the tabletop desktop with a glass surface. Forms can also be different - from classic parallelepiped to spherical or pyramidal. There are more complex - in the form of any characters, for example, R2-D2 robot from "Star Wars". The hulls made in retro style look good. For example, a better model stylized under the lamp Soviet equipment, with many dial and handles on the front panel - they, by the way, function, and show the processor, memory, and other parameters. Futuristic and postpocalyptic design is also popular. Many computers are decorated in the style of Fallout.

The PC body, created by their own hands, always has a personal design, because it exists in a single instance. However, before being taken for this creative case, do not forget to calculate and ensure all the technical points that were discussed at the beginning of the article. No matter how it looks like your computer outwardly, there must be comfortable working conditions for internal devices even at maximum load.

A student without experience in woodworking and computers made a body for a computer with his own hands. He needed from the tools: the hammer and the chisel on the tree, the electric bison and drill, and computer components. What of this came out, see step-by-step instructions in photos.

You can make the same case for a computer yourself, that's what it looks like:

To start making the case, you will need a wooden frame with a size of 420mm x 420mm.

Then you need to remove the edge for the side panels using the chisels and the hammer. The recess must be 5 mm by 15 mm.

Installing fans into the case. So that the fans do not have friction, which will create sound when working, you need to cut the tree fraction once by time, while the coolers become tightly fit. The same method was used for coolers at the bottom of the hull.

Installing controllers. The compartments were cut out with an electroll bison and slits are ground with sandpaper. RGB LED controllers were installed in the housing.

For the inner and outer walls of the housing, aluminum sheets will be needed.

The next step is to install the power supply into the case. To do this, cut the hole to attach the power supply to the back of the case.

Now it will take a black plexiglass size of 390x390x5mm, in which you need to crop the edges so that they match the oval valves on a wooden case.

Then the inner wall is attached inside the housing. For this, metal corners, self-tapping screws and washers were used.

Installing the On / Off button in the case. A hole in the aluminum wall is drilled, and the edges are maintained with a file, configuring it under the right size.

Installing an input / output panel that is held in the housing hole only by dense adjustment.

This is how wooden legs for the housing are made, on such legs, the computer will stand steadily.

The body is almost ready, everything that remains to try to correctly install computer components correctly, so that your creative wooden computer will not only please you with your beauty, but also worked :)

In the space between the walls of the case, all cables are hidden.

For a more spectacular view of a wooden housing, you can install LEDs under the glass.

Before you the end result - this is how the wooden case looks like for a computer made with your own hands at home.