Largus beep does not work. Return of the missing audio signal

Hello everyone today I want to talk about why the signal does not work on the Lada Largus car. The Largus has a two-tone sound signal. There is also no signal relay, and both signals are connected when turned on through a fuse. If it suddenly happens that you press the signal, by the way, the button for turning on the sound signal on the Largus is located on the steering column switch on the left, and you do not hear the sound, it means that something went wrong and the first thing to do is to check the fuse F17 (15A).

If necessary, you need to replace the signal fuse, and if after replacement it blows out again, then you need to look for a short circuit. After checking the fuse, if it turns out to be working, then the cause must be looked for in the steering column switch.

In the steering column switch, the black wire at the base of the solder loves to break off, and in this case you have two ways to buy a new switch, which is not so cheap, or to solder if you know how to do it. Also, the sound signals themselves can be attributed to possible malfunctions of the sound signal of the Lada Largus car. But the likelihood that both will refuse at once is very small.

Well, that's all we have considered the main reasons why the sound signal does not work on the Lada Largus car. Goodbye to everyone.

Once the sound signal (horn) began to work once, a little later, the dependence of the operation and non-operation on the position of the headlight switch was discovered, and then the signal stopped working altogether. The Internet immediately suggested that this is a child's sore.

I will not describe in detail how to remove the steering column cover, I will only tell you that you need a Torx screwdriver, I don’t remember what size and long enough. It turned out to be very difficult to hit the "star" of the screw with a screwdriver. it is located deep enough and at some unnatural angle, which you do not expect and is poking somewhere by.
After removing the cover, turn the steering wheel in the direction "at 9 o'clock" and unscrew the two self-tapping screws for the left steering column switch. Disconnect the wiring block.
We look at the switch block from the back and see such a picture (almost like this, this photo was taken when everything was already fixed, we are interested in the red and black wires, my red one was broken off)
(see photo below)
Honestly, I didn't immediately figure out how the mechanism works, and I soldered the broken wire to the bold point of the solder on the lever.
But after that I did not check how the headlight control modes switch. It turned out that the neighbor seemed to be not connected, the soldered wiring interfered to the end, turn the switch until it clicks. Well, and soon the signal disappeared again, I had to climb again.
It turns out that when switching headlight modes, the inner rod to which the wires are connected rotates:

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

Well, it is understandable - the more often you switch the headlights, the more the wires experience cyclic kink loads.
Now we disassemble the unit in order to completely replace the wires (I changed both at once, without waiting for the second regular one to break).

Unscrew the two screws on the block cover

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

Cover - to the side

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

Gently pull the lever upward from the switch housing

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

Now you need to remove the rotary part from the lever, which, in fact, switches the headlights.
We take a flat screwdriver, squeeze the lever into a fist, and act in the same way as many open bottles - we rest with a screwdriver, like a lever, against the base of the index finger, tighten the rotary part (it is held on the rod due to a snug fit)

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

I have additionally removed the sound signal button from the rotary part (held by two latches)

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

And it turned out, not in vain - one contact pad was burnt due to the fact that one contact on the rod was longer than the other. Well, and, of course, due to the fact that there is no relay in the sound signal control circuit, all the current passes through the button (a reason to think about those who put more powerful signals)

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

I cleaned the contact pad, did not grind the contact - I tapped it, from which it flattened a little. Well, good - the contact area will be larger.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

We take out the rod from the lever, we unsolder the wires from the switch block, we unsolder the wires (or their "stubs") from the rod.
We are looking for wires that are suitable in diameter, because they must fit through the holes on the rod. If they fit, take pieces of wires of the required length. I took a longer one than the standard ones (in the first photos, where, in fact, everything is ready, you can see that there is clearly more of them) in order to reduce the influence of the breaking moment.
We solder and wrap it around the rod, placing it in the appropriate grooves and threading it into the corresponding holes.

Note: catalog numbers of horns

Depending on the configuration, Lada Largus can be equipped with either one or two sound signals of different tonality. The horns are located behind the front bumper on the left and right. If the vehicle has only one signal installed, it is located on the right side (high tone). If there are two signals, then the low-tone is set to the right, and the high-tone is set to the left.

High and low tone signals are distinguished by their markings. A high-pitched tone is indicated by the letter “ N"(Hight), and the low tone is indicated by the letter" L"(Low).

Withdrawal

Place the car in the workplace, brake with the parking brake, turn off the ignition. Lift the hood, disconnect the ground wire terminal from the battery (spanner "10").

Note: To remove the sound signals, you can either remove the front bumper (a little longer, but it is more convenient to work), or remove only the front wheel arch liners. To remove the bumper, in any case, you need to remove the wheel arch liners, so you should start with them, and then decide in a specific case whether you need to remove the bumper. Mountings may vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle. Practice shows that to remove the left signal together with the bracket, you need to remove the bumper, but not for the right one.

Remove the wheel arch liners and front bumper ()

Disconnect the front wiring block 2, Figure 9-1, from the horn.

Figure 9-1- Removing the horn device:

1 - bolt of fastening of the sound signaling device;
2 - block of the front wiring harness to the sound signaling device;
3 - audible alarm device

Unscrew the bolt 1 securing the device 3 of the acoustic signal to the vehicle body (wrench "13").

Remove the audible warning device complete with a strip.

If necessary, unscrew the crumb nut and remove it from the signal.

Installation

Install the audible warning device in the reverse order of removal.

The tightening torque of the mounting bolt is 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, extension, torque wrench).

Install front bumper

Video

It is known that Renault Logan is a budget car, and therefore the manufacturer is trying to save money on some of its elements in order to thereby reduce the cost of the car. Such systems include the contact group of the sound signal, which is located in the steering column switches.

The video with the repair of the sound signal is below.

The main reasons for the breakdown of the sound signal

Most car owners do not often use a sound signal in their daily life. But if such a malfunction is revealed, then in the event that the car is under warranty and the signal stops working, you can contact an authorized dealer. You can also fix the problem yourself.

Understeering's shifter

The most common cause of signal failure is when the headlights are on. The culprit is the switch,. It may lose contact. It was also noted that such a design cannot always withstand even the warranty period for a car. Since the entire bundle of wires passes along the axis of the switch, then when the regulator is turned, the entire structure of the contacts rotates, as a result of this, the contact itself disappears.

To correct the situation, you need to remove the lever. With some experience, this does not take much time.

1. To remove the element, you will need to remove the cover from the steering column.
2. Before doing this, you must disconnect the power from the battery.
3. To remove the casing itself, you must unscrew the two self-tapping screws.
4. After removing the lever, it is necessary to inspect it visually.

   Visual inspection revealed a broken black wire

5. If there is mechanical damage or a broken wire, then this can be immediately noticed. In the event that the wire is damaged, it can simply be soldered in place.

The photo shows that a black wire fell out of the wire chip, just insert it into place

After carrying out such a repair, all elements must be assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.

Circuit breakers

Location of fuses in the main unit

Also, the sound signal may not work if the fuse is blown. It is located in the mounting block in the passenger compartment.

F17 (15A and its color)- the number of the fuse of the sound signal in the diagram above

It should be remembered that Renault Logan also has two more small blocks located in the engine compartment. It is recommended to check all of them for blown fuses.

The sound signal itself

The sound signal itself can also refuse to work. It is located in the engine compartment on the left. It can only be accessed after removing the mudguard.

The sound signal under the bumper is marked with a red arrow, for clarity, the bumper has been removed

Disconnect the battery.

conclusions

Knowing these points, you can independently identify the cause of the malfunction of the sound signal and eliminate it.

I bought sound signals from a GAZ 3110, for 600 with something rubles. I can't say that the standard ones are very weak, but I wanted to try to deliver a powerful sound signal from the Volga and compare ...

I added a relay with a block (were in stock) to unload the button, since both signals consume a current of 15A, but this is exactly the current for which the F17 standard signal fuse is designed, which is not buzzing.
Connection diagram (honestly I stole on the Internet and redrawn it under the auto diagram) ...

I installed the relay and fuse in the block next to the fuse box in the passenger compartment using the hinged mounting method. Maybe not beautiful, but cheap and cheerful. You can, if desired, attach the relay to the side of the unit.
The wire from terminal 30 of the relay goes to the fuse and then to the red thick wire of the S9 bus. Pins 85 and 87 break the standard pink signal wire.
The red wire was soldered to the contact strip of the fuses F28-F31 (the second red wire in the photo goes to the cigarette lighter socket in the trunk) ...

In an amicable way, you need to find the fuse box for disassembly, remove the contact strips from it and install there all the additional fuses that I have, but so far.

The black ground wire from terminal 86 of the relay, without bothering, led to the self-tapping screw of the fuse box itself ...

P.S. Subsequently, the fuse in the block was removed from the circuit and the wires were re-soldered so that the standard F17 fuse was used, but already at 20A. The earth wire was pulled to the earth pin under the dashboard ...


To replace the signals, remove the bumper ...

Standard signals:

Low left ...

... on the right in a high tone.

The standard signals are connected via a two-wire chip. And for the Volgovskys, only one wire is needed, the mass goes through the hairpin to the signal body. At first I thought to cut the chip, but then I decided to simply strip the standard wire to connect a piece of wire to it from the new signal. To this segment I connected a 6.3mm female connector with a chip. In the process of work, I noticed on the body, opposite the signal, an unused pin (mass), and then the idea came to me to leave the standard signals in parallel with the new ones! I found a rusty but suitable bar in the bins and attached it to the hairpin and the old signal ...

On the right side, I also set a high-tone signal in parallel with the standard one. There, the bracket is slightly longer and has a long slot in the middle, thanks to which both signals can be installed on it.

slightly bending the bracket ...

Now the signal sounds much more solid !!!

I took a video of the sound of the signals, but you can hardly hear the difference from it, the equipment does not transmit the entire gamut of sounds, alas ...