Proper cooling of the computer case. Cooling your pc or how to deal with computer overheating

The most power-hungry in a computer is the processor and the removal of the released thermal energy is an urgent task, especially when the ambient temperature is high. Not only the stability and durability of its operation depends on the heating temperature of the processor, but the speed, which processor manufacturers usually keep silent about.

In the overwhelming majority of computers, the processor cooling system is designed with disregard for the elementary laws of physics. The system cooler works in the mode short circuit, since there is no screen that prevents the cooler from sucking in hot air coming from the processor heatsink. As a result, the efficiency of the processor cooling system does not exceed 50%. In addition, cooling is performed with air heated by other components and assemblies located in the system unit.

Sometimes an additional cooler is installed in the system unit on the back wall, but this is not the best solution... An additional cooler works to push air out of system unit into the environment as well as the cooler of the power supply. As a result, the efficiency of both coolers is much lower if they worked separately - one sucked air into the system unit, and the other pushed it out. As a result, additional electricity is consumed and, what is most unpleasant, additional acoustic noise appears.

The proposed design of the processor cooling system is free from the above disadvantages, is easy to implement and provides high efficiency of cooling the processor and, as a result, other components of the motherboard. The idea is not new and simple, the air for cooling the processor heatsink is taken from outside the system unit, that is, from the room.

I decided to improve the cooling system of the processor of my computer when I came across a construct from the cooling system of a branded, obsolete system unit.

It remains to fix this part in the system unit and connect it to the processor cooler. Since the length of the branch pipe was insufficient, it had to be extended with a polyethylene tape twisted into a tube. The tube diameter was chosen taking into account the tight fit on the CPU cooler case. To prevent the tape from developing, it is fixed with a metal bracket with a stapler.

The system is fixed with the help of self-made two corners with self-tapping screws to the back wall of the system unit. Exact positioning relative to the center of the cooler is achieved due to the lengths of the sides of the corners.

Such simple construction made it possible to practically exclude the flow of hot air from the system unit to the processor cooling system.

There was already a ready-made hole in the lid of my system unit, which simplified the work. But making a hole on your own is not difficult, you need to project the center point of the cooler onto the side cover, draw a circle with a compass, slightly less than the diameter of the tube. Drill with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm with a pitch of 3.5 mm along the entire length of the hole circumference. Drilling points must first be marked with a core. Then re-drill the drilled holes with a 4 mm drill. Cut the edges of the hole obtained with a round file. All that remains is to install a decorative grille, although it is not required.

A plastic beverage bottle can be used as an air duct. If there is no suitable diameter, then you can take a larger one, cut along and sew with threads. High tightness is not required here. You can also fix the tube with small screws directly to the cooler case. The main thing is to provide air supply to the processor cooling system from the outside.

Temperature measurements showed the high efficiency of the made cooling system Pentium processor 2.8 GHz. At 10% CPU load, at an ambient temperature of 20 ° C, the processor temperature did not exceed 30 ° C, the heatsink was cold to the touch. At the same time, the cooler effectively cooled the radiator at the lowest speed.

4.8 / 5 ( 104 votes)

Any laptop heats up to some extent during operation. Especially often, overheating of this technique occurs in the summer, when the ambient temperature rises. A similar overheating is also observed when modern computer games... In order to protect the equipment from the critical temperature, temperature sensors are initially installed in it. When the temperature indicators of the central or GPU reach a critical value, the device simply turns off. But this is not always convenient, especially if at the time of shutdown you were performing important actions on your device.

Overheating reasons

In order to cope with overheating problems, you need to find their cause and try to fix it.

The main reason for laptop overheating lies in its dimensions, namely in the compactness of the case. In it, manufacturers place all the same components that are available in the usual desktop computer... The challenge, however, is to maintain the performance of the device. To accomplish this, the hardware items are packed fairly tightly in the case. Free space very little remains between them. This interferes with the full movement of air, the meaning of which is to remove hot streams to the outside and the flow of cold ones to the inside. The compactness of laptops does not allow equipping them with large and powerful coolers.
An additional inconvenience when using a laptop is dust, lint, hair, wool and other small light particles that periodically accumulate in places where air is blown out and on the radiator. Because of this, the performance of the device is reduced, in particular, the thermal conductivity. In this case, the cooler becomes clogged, and its efficiency decreases.

Summer has come, and the owners of laptop computers are increasingly asking the question: "how to cool a laptop" if it gets pretty hot after a certain time of operation

Sometimes the cause of overheating of your device is a malfunction of the fan caused by its breakdown or factory defect. For example, it may turn out to be insufficiently lubricated or a bearing is faulty.
During long-term operation of the device, thermal paste may dry out, with the help of which the best heat transfer to the cooler and radiator is produced, enabling the fan to function more efficiently.
Some laptop owners misuse them. For example, you can often observe how at home the device is not installed on a hard surface, but on a blanket or placed directly on your lap. In these cases, overheating of the device cannot be avoided, because the openings for heated air blowing are closed, and the processor is not able to fully cool down.

An expert's opinion: how to cool a laptop at home?

Most effective method to lower the temperature inside is to replace the thermal paste. It is advisable to carry out this procedure regularly. It is also worth remembering that the best remedy for overheating is prevention: place the laptop only on hard surfaces (and it would be best to purchase a special cooling pad) and do not forget to clean it from dust.

Konstantin Kotovsky

About symptoms

To determine the temperature of the laptop, apply special programs... If you suspect that your device is overheating, refer to the data that displays the temperature sensor measurements. For example, you can use BIOS / UEFI or the HWInfo utility to find out the required information. You can find any other program that will show you the heating of your computer by displaying sensor data. In a special window, you can also monitor the rotational speed of the cooler.

In the operating manual, you can find information on the permissible operating temperature range of the device. These data are also available on the official website of the company selling laptops.

But it is not necessary to resort to utilities when defining permissible temperature work of a small-sized computer.

When the temperature limit of the CPU / GPU is reached, the device will simply turn off

If it overheats, then it will be immediately clear by the following signs:

too loud noise from the fan;
the air being blown out is very hot;
abrupt shutdowns of the laptop;
hot case.

Consequences of high temperatures

If you ignore the constant overheating of your laptop, this can lead to unpleasant consequences. For example, high temperatures have a negative effect on the processor. The crystalline structure of its components is gradually deteriorating, negatively affecting its performance.

You've probably noticed that an overheated microprocessor starts to "slow down", slowly performing tasks. In this case, the owner of the device can see error messages on the screen. Some processes can be invisible to the user. Sometimes, when overheating, the processor needs to perform calculations several times until it gets the correct result.

But this situation can be especially inconvenient for gamers who are fond of online games with detailed graphics. The high temperature inside the laptop provokes the shutdown of the device right during some important "battle". Often, such nuances make the gaming community ask the question: "how to cool the laptop?", And resort to sophistication for the sake of good cooling.

But the negative thermal factor adversely affects not only the crystal structure of the microprocessor. After all, silicon participating in the operation of transistors is also susceptible to carbonization, like contacts. This provokes even greater overheating and easily disables the device in just a few months.

Typically, a laptop is not in danger of failure due to overheating, because it has temperature sensors

Ways to eliminate factors provoking overheating

Laptop stands

There are many different laptop stands available today. They differ in the presence or absence of an additional cooling cooler. Both of them allow you to reduce the temperature of the processor. Such devices are sometimes quite inexpensive and available to everyone.

Cleaning software

You can reduce the temperature by reducing the list of software that works together with the system. It is also advisable to close unused applications through the task manager.

Processor voltage

You can control it according to the following scheme: start the "power supply", → go to the settings of the current power plan, → select Extra options power supply, → open the processor power management tab → lower its maximum voltage.

Switching off the appliance

Sometimes, simply turning off the laptop allows it to cool down enough to continue. safe work... This reduces fan noise and allows the underside of the case to cool down.

Nowadays, you can buy a lot of gadgets and even installations that allow you to keep the temperature mode of operation of the device within acceptable standards.

Cleaning and replacing thermal paste

Professionals advise cleaning the cooler (fan and radiator) from dust every six months. In doing so, it is advisable to update the thermal paste, which increases heat transfer from the CPU to the heatsink.

A Phillips screwdriver is used to open the housing cover. Dust that has accumulated inside the laptop, between the radiator fins and under the fan, can be removed with tissues, cotton swabs, a can of compressed air or a vacuum cleaner.

To reduce the chances of overheating the device, it is necessary to properly distribute the thermal grease when replacing the cooling element. You can buy it at any store that sells computer technology, or in the radio market.

Sequencing:

detach the heatsink from the processor surface;
remove the remnants of the old thermal paste from the processor and heatsink;
apply new paste to the surface of the microprocessor.

The paste is applied in a thin layer, it is necessary to provide a minimum of space between the radiator and the contact area. If you apply an unnecessarily thick layer of paste, the CPU may overheat and even fail.

Also, at least once a year, you should replace the thermal paste, which improves heat transfer from the processor to the heatsink, and, accordingly, the fan.

Fan replacement and repair

If you have experience in assembling / disassembling a laptop, you can probably independently replace the fan with exactly the same or more powerful one. This should be done when it is known for sure that the cause of overheating lies precisely in this element of the laptop. Sometimes it is enough just to change the bearing grease. It's easy to do it yourself. After such maintenance, it rotates freely from a light touch.

Cooling programs

There are items in the BIOS that allow you to change the rotation modes of the fans that cool the motherboard (if any) and CPU... In the presented section, you can set the aggressive mode for them. But at the same time, the noise from the fans will be noticeably higher, even when the laptop is not performing any tasks (idle).

Some discrete graphics cards come with special utilities, but they are usually used to reduce the speed and noise from the fan, which increases the temperature.

Some manufacturers make life easier for users by supplying with motherboard(or a laptop) specialized programs that allow you to monitor the readings of the sensors and change the parameters that affect forced cooling.

Correct operation

When using a laptop, proper operation is essential. When it stands on a hard surface, such as a table or a special stand, there is enough room for hot air to blow out. When the laptop is placed on a sofa, blanket, or bed, the air outlet and air inlet slots are blocked, therefore, cooling is impaired. It is best to place the body of the device on specialized tables, which have additional holes on their surface for hot air to pass through.

Basic details

Water block (or heat exchanger)
Centrifugal water pump (pump) with a capacity of 600 liters / h.
Cooling radiator (car)
Expansion tank for coolant (water)
Hoses 10-12 mm;
Fans with a diameter of 120mm (4 pieces)
Fan power supply
Expendable materials

Waterblock

The main task of the water block is to quickly take heat from the processor and transfer it to the coolant. Copper is most suitable for these purposes. It is possible to manufacture a heat exchanger from aluminum, but its thermal conductivity (230W / (m * K)) is half that of copper (395.4 W / (m * K)). The device of the water block (or heat exchanger) is also important. The heat exchanger device is one or more continuous channels passing through the entire internal volume of the water block. It is important to maximize the contact surface with water and avoid water stagnation. To increase the surface, frequent cuts are usually used on the walls of the water block or small needle-shaped radiators are installed.

I didn't try to do something complicated, so I started making a simple water tank with two holes for pipes. The base was a brass pipe connector, and the base was a copper plate 2 millimeters thick. From above, two copper pipes with a hose diameter are inserted into the same plate. Everything is sealed with tin-lead solder. While making the waterblock bigger, at first I didn't think about its weight. Assembled with hoses and water on motherboard will hang over 300 grams, and for relief I had to use additional hose mounts.

Material: copper, brass
Diameter of fittings: 10 mm
Soldering: Tin-lead solder
Mounting method: screws to the store cooler mount, hoses are fastened with clamps
Price: about 100 rubles

Sawing and soldering

water pump

Pumps are external or submersible. The first only passes it through itself, and the second pushes it out, being immersed in it. Here, a submersible is used, it is placed in a container with water. It was not possible to find the external one, I was looking for it in pet stores, and there were only submersible aquarium pumps. Capacity from 200 to 1400 liters per hour, price from 500 to 2000 rubles. Powered by an outlet, power from 4 to 20 watts. On a hard surface, the pump makes a lot of noise, and on foam rubber, the noise is negligible. A jar containing a pump was used as a water reservoir. Steel screw clamps were used to connect the silicone hoses. An odorless lubricant can be used to easily put on and remove the hoses.

Maximum productivity - 650 l / h.
Height of water rise - 80 cm
Voltage - 220V
Power - 6 W
Price - 580 rubles

Radiator

How high-quality the radiator will be will largely determine the efficiency of the entire water cooling system. A car radiator heating system (stove) from nine was used here, an old one was bought at a flea market for 100 rubles. Unfortunately, the spacing between the plates in it turned out to be less than a millimeter, so I had to manually push and compress the plates several at a time so that weak Chinese fans could blow it through.

Tube material: copper
Rib material: aluminum
Size: 35x20x5 cm
Diameter of fittings: 14 mm
Price: 100 rubles

Blowing

The radiator is blown by two pairs of 12 cm fans in the front and rear. It was not possible to power 4 fans from the system unit during the test, so I had to assemble a simple 12-volt power supply. The fans were connected in parallel and connected with the correct polarity. This is important, otherwise the fan is likely to be damaged. The cooler has 3 wires: black (ground), red (+ 12V) and yellow (speed value).

Material: Chinese plastic
Diameter: 12cm
Voltage: 12V
Current: 0.15 A
Price: 80 * 4 rubles

Note to the hostess

I did not set the goal of noise reduction because of the cost of the fans. So the fan for 100 rubles is made of black plastic and consumes 150 milliamperes of current. These are the ones I used to blow the radiator, it blows weakly, but it's cheap. Already for 200-300 rubles, you can find much more powerful and beautiful models with a consumption of 300-600 milliamperes, but at maximum speed they are noisy. This is solved by silicone pads and anti-vibration mounts, but for me the minimum cost was critical.

Power Supply

If there is no ready-made at hand, you can assemble the simplest of the materials at hand and a microcircuit, which costs less than 100 rubles. For 4 fans, a current of 0.6 A is required and a little in reserve. The microcircuit provides approximately 1 ampere at a voltage of 9 to 15 volts, depending on the model. Any model can be used by setting a 12 volt variable resistor.

Tools and soldering iron
Radio parts
Chip
Wires and insulation
Price: 100 rubles

Installation and verification

Hardware part

CPU: Intel Core i7 960 3.2 GHz / 4.3 GHz
Motherboard: ASUS Rampage 3 formula
Power supply: OCZ ZX1250W
Thermal paste: AL-SIL 3

Software

Windows 7 x64 SP1
Prime 95
RealTemp 3.69
Cpu-z 1.58

I didn't have to test for a long time, tk. the results did not even come close to the capabilities of an air cooler. So far, the SVO radiator has been blown off with only two Chinese fans out of 4 possible, and the plates have not yet been extended wider for better airflow. So in the power saving mode and zero load, the processor temperature in air is about 42 degrees, and on a homemade SVO it is 57 degrees. Running the prime95 test for 4 streams (50% load) heats up to 65 degrees in air and up to 100 degrees in 30 seconds at CBO. When overclocked, the results are even worse.

An attempt was made to make a new waterblock with a thinner (0.5 mm) copper base plate and almost three times more spacious inside, albeit from the same materials (copper + brass). In the radiator, the fins have been moved apart for better airflow and two more fans have been added, now there are 4 of them. This time, in the power saving mode and zero load, the processor temperature in air is about 42 degrees, and on a home-made SVO it is about 55 degrees. Running the prime95 test for 4 streams (50% load) heats up to 65 degrees in air and up to 83 degrees in the CBO. But at the same time, the water in the circuit begins to heat up rather quickly and after 5-7 minutes the processor temperature reaches 96 degrees. These are readings without overclocking.

Collecting the CBO was, of course, interesting, but using it for cooling modern processor failed. In older computers, the stock cooler does an excellent job. Maybe I picked up low-quality materials or improperly made a water block, but it is not possible for me to collect an SVO for less than 1000 rubles at home. After reading reviews of budget ready-made CBOs available in stores, I did not hope that my homemade product would be better than a good air cooler. For myself, I concluded that it is not worth saving in the future on components for the NWO. When I decide to buy an SVO for overclocking, I will definitely assemble it myself from individual parts.

Video clip

All cheerful time of the day))) As promised, I will try to describe the manufacturing process of this modification of the case in as much detail as possible. First, I apologize to the moderators. of this project since the link is used, and the photographs used were taken at different times and not all are directly related to this modification, although they are as close as possible. But, a link from this site)))) So, let's get started. To do this, we need: (a) firm confidence in the need to modify your body, (b) a regular centimeter ruler, (c) a compass or a simple pencil + thin marker in a color different from the color of the body, (d) a drill or screwdriver with two drills (on 4 and 8), (e) a jigsaw with a metal blade (file) installed on it, (f) a Phillips screwdriver, a fan and fasteners (screws), (g) a protective device (grill, mesh, or without it). Further, in order: a) It is necessary to find out the location of our modification. In my case - opposite and slightly lower than the video card, so that the stream of fresh air blew directly onto the video card. You can also apply air flow to HDD, central processing unit, northern or south bridge motherboard, a very rare case - on the power supply. b) Use a ruler to find out the diameter (fan diameter) of the hole cut in the body, which can be drawn (c) with a compass on the body wall. Or we can circle the inside of the fan with a pencil or a marker on this surface .. jpg d) We need a drill and drills to drill holes in the case. A drill for 8 - to insert a file from (d) of the jigsaw and start sawing (in the photo in red), and a drill for 4 - to attach the fan with screws. Having cut out the required radius, we proceed to fastening. To do this, we need to mark the mounting points from (e) the fan and drill them out (in the photo in black). (g) The grill or its analogue (whatever your heart desires, you can even do without it. But I used a protective grill from the power supply, because there is a small child in the house), we will fasten simultaneously with the fan with the screws that come with almost all the "carlsons" from the store. After attaching, I applied power to the fan. Used a connector on the motherboard and a pull-down resistor.

Introduction

A few years ago water cooling considered extreme in the modding world. The systems usually consisted of self-assembled blocks by the user with rare aluminum parts. Today, in 2005, water cooling has become a very valuable and affordable, although still exotic technology. With the help of companies like Koolance, Danger Den, and Swiftech, mass-producing water-cooled components has opened the door even for inexperienced modders.

There are two main applications for water cooling: silent computers and extreme "overclocking". For fans of silent PCs, water cooling eliminates loud fans while providing superior heat dissipation. The water cooling loop passes through the hottest parts of the PC (CPU, GPU) and transfers heat to the heat exchanger. As a result, the components do not heat up that much, which creates a good potential for "overclocking".

We design a general view of the system

Before you start choosing components, you should design your system. The main thing to think about is how to place all the components inside your case.

Below we have provided a list of the components that are used in a typical water cooling system.

Cooling heads: transfer heat from the system components to the fluid.
Pump: makes the liquid circulate through the tubes.
Heat exchanger: dissipates the heat received from the liquid into the air.
Fan and Shroud: Helps to blow air through the heat exchanger.
Reservoir: Used to fill the system with liquid and remove bubbles from it.
Tubes: liquid flows through them.

Whether your system is completely enclosed in a case (the "middle tower" will not work here) or you will be using an external heat exchanger, you have to think through everything beforehand. Water cooling is not a project that can be tweaked along the way. If you miss something, you will spend a lot more time and money while building the system.

Cooling heads

Choosing the right cooling heads is usually straightforward. Everything is simply about money. Visit several sites that offer cooling heads and decide which one is best for you. Pay attention to what material the head is made of (usually copper) and whether it is suitable for the diameter of your pipes. Some sites sell heads made of silver rather than copper. Despite the obvious chic, the real advantages of silver over copper are negligible, so we don't recommend buying them, even if you can afford it.

If you are planning to cool the video card, then it would be nice to take two heads to cool both the GPU and the video memory. The large heads that cool both components are usually difficult to fit, and the heights of the chips on each card are different. In addition, improper installation of such a head can lead to disastrous results. In most cases, it is best to buy a GPU head and attach ordinary heatsinks to the memory.

You can buy cooling heads on the following sites.

Pump

There are several factors to consider when choosing a pump. For simplicity, we will only consider in-line pumps and not submersible pumps.

First you need to decide whether you will power the pump from a computer power supply (12V) or from an outlet (220V). As far as performance is concerned, there is no difference between these two methods. The advantage of the 12V pump is that you will never forget to turn it on, as it starts up with the computer. The disadvantage is that such pumps are somewhat more expensive than network options. In principle, if the pump is powered from the mains, then a switch can also be installed for it, which will automatically start it when the computer starts. Some users of such pumps never turn them off at all, so as not to accidentally forget to turn on the pump.

When choosing a pump, attention should be paid to parameters such as hydrostatic head, noise level, reliability and flow rate. Hydrostatic head is very important - a pump with a high flow rate, but a low head, will not be able to pump liquid through the radiator and cooling heads. The noise level of the pumps varies, but they rarely run louder than the heat exchanger fan. Remember to install a gasket between the pump and the casing (some pumps are already supplied with gaskets). Then the vibration of the pump will not be transmitted to the housing.

On the following sites, you can check out popular solutions.

All water cooling systems require heat to be removed from the liquid. The most common way to remove heat is by using a heat exchanger / radiator. It is a serpentine, equipped with a large number of metal edges and located outside or inside the computer case. A liquid is passed through the heat exchanger, which transfers heat to the fins, and they, in turn, to the surrounding air. Of course, there are more sophisticated technologies, but for most systems, one radiator will be more than enough.

Since water cooling a computer is a lot like a car's radiator, it shouldn't surprise you that the cheapest and most efficient way to design a heat exchanger mimics a car's cooling system. However, it will be almost impossible to use a standard car radiator due to its big size and flow requirements. Instead, enthusiasts often go for the so-called heater core. The most popular water cooling cores are from the 1984 Chevrolet Chevette and 1977 Pontiac Bonneville, due to their good match for full tower cases. The Chevette core has adequate surface area for a single 120mm fan, while the Bonneville is large enough to accommodate two fans. Cores can be purchased at any auto store for $ 20- $ 30.

Minor modifications must be made before installing the heater cores mentioned in the computer. It is necessary to cut the tubes coming from the core and replace them with the correct tubes. Also, thoroughly clean the core of the heater, as it is usually not so clean in the package.

To effectively cool the heat exchanger, the shroud is often forgotten, which is, in fact, the layer between the fans and the radiator. Standard case fans have a "blind spot" in the center, so a shroud is needed to create an even airflow along the fins.

The casing is very simple to design: it can be made from cardboard, sheet of metal, or any other material at hand. One of the most convenient core casings for the Bonneville 77 Heater can be made from a food container. Take a CD, circle it on the container and cut it out. You end up with two holes, perfect for 120mm fans. Then attach the fans to the shroud with screws, then attach the shroud to the radiator with tape. If you cut your shroud, make it at least two centimeters thick: the greater the distance between the fans and the radiator surface, the better.

Below are the most common heat exchanger solutions.

Heater core
Black ice

Reservoir, tubing and liquid

There are three ways to fill a water cooling system. It all depends on the size of the case and the amount of work you are willing to spend on maintaining your system.

The first method is to use a reservoir - a simple container with inlet and outlet pipes and a lid for filling the liquid. The reservoir has several advantages, the most important of which is the easy way to fill the system. In addition, placing the reservoir in front of the pump inlet ensures a constant supply of fluid to the pump. However, the reservoir does not lower the temperature of the liquid: a large amount of it means that it will take longer to reach thermal balance.

An easy and inexpensive way to fill the system is to use the T-line. In this case, a T-splitter is placed in the water cycle, usually in front of the pump from which the tube comes out. It works as a small reservoir that can be filled with a funnel. Many modders use the T-line not only because of the low cost, but also because it requires less space than a tank.

Finally, you can use a closed loop, but you need a submersible pump. Simply place the pump in a large fluid reservoir and turn it on. When the system is filled with liquid, connect the pump inlet to the tubing. This seems to be the most elegant solution, but it is more difficult to maintain.

Basically, it is not necessary to buy special pipes on websites. Any will do, as long as they have the correct inner diameter (ID) and the nozzles have the correct outer diameter (OD).

If you buy from modders' sites, then Clearflex-60 and Tygon pipes are most often found there. The main difference is that Tygon tubing is certified for laboratory use and usually costs a little more.

Also, don't forget to buy enough tube holders. They are different types, take the ones that are more convenient for you to use.

In addition, a refrigerant can be added to the distilled water. Again, you don't have to buy it from modders' sites. You can take a car coolant. Follow the directions on the bottle and create the correct mix for your system. There are several reasons to use a refrigerant. The most important thing is to prevent galvanic corrosion. In addition, the refrigerant will prevent algae growth and the dye will make it easier to detect leaks.

Conclusion and general advice

Water cooling is no longer so difficult and dangerous today. Follow our advice and you will not only be able to improve the cooling of your system, but also have a lot of fun doing it yourself. Of course, a properly assembled and properly decorated water cooling system will grab the attention of friends at a game party.

Below we have provided tips that will not be superfluous during assembly.

Measure seven times, cut one.
Avoid kinking and 90-degree tubing angles. The fewer tubing and bends, the easier it is for the pump to operate. And always connect the pump inlet with a straight tube, no kinks.
The order of the cooling heads in the cycle does not affect the fluid temperature too much.
It is better if the fans blow air out of the radiator rather than blowing it in. This approach is quieter, and more efficient (if, of course, you use a shroud).
Let the water cycle run for a couple of hours without a computer - then you can detect leaks. It is best if you wrap all joints with tissue paper or newsprint - then you will prevent liquid from spilling onto the system components.